Iceaxe

I removed my zerk bolt when finished and tossed it in my toolbox so I could use it on another car, but there should be no reason you couldn't leave it in.

riverracer au

what is and where do i find this procedure?

whilst in the car, can i just -
hold the stud, remove the locking nut, measure the thread amount sticking out,
undo the 3 cap bolts and take it off by unscrewing the stud,
then clean out as much old grease as i can and then repack with new.
assemble in reverse.

i figure the main shaft won't move because of the pitman arm on the bottom holding it in place?

Big2Bird

I would not. If you don't get that adjustment correct, you can ruin the gears. That adjustment is made with a dial type inch pound torque wrench.

Stephen Irons

OK, one last question - What size is the bolt please - thread size that is?

Thanks!

7T1vette

The better approach (IMO) would be to remove the three bolts and the locknut on the adjustment stud while holding the stud in the same position with a screwdriver. Then, while again maintaining the rotational position of the adjustment stud, un-screw the cover and count the exact number of turns (and fractional turns) that it takes for it to dislodge from the screw. Any further actions with the box must keep that stud from turning.

Now you can dig out as much old grease (if there is any left) from the box and fill it with whatever you choose. Leave about 1/4" of airspace at the top of the box for grease expansion when it heats up.

You can change the upper gasket if you want, but the new one should be close to the same in thickness. Any minor differences can be adjusted out with final adjustment to the stud, once assembled. Start to engage the cover at the same position as when it was removed. Make sure that the threads engage on that first rotation. Now, count the turns and when the right number is obtained, assemble and torque the bolts and put the locknut back on.

At this point, you can attempt to take the slack out of the sector gear, using that adjustment stud. Hold the locknut with it a little loose on the stud and turn the stud CW slowly. You want to feel when there is some light resistance and then stop and tighten the locknut, making sure that the stud doesn't rotate further.

Take the car out to a parking lot or other open, flat paved area. Do some slow figure 8's with the car, turning the steering wheel to full lock left, then releasing it while still in the turn to see if it returns to center on its own. If it does not, the adjustment stud is too tight. Repeat this process while going to the right. Make adjustments according to whether the steering wheel still has 'slop' in it or if there is tightness in the wheel when returning to center. In the end, you want as little slack in the steering box as possible while having NO binding as the wheel returns to center from either direction.

If you get the wheel returns working freely, but still have significant slack when the wheel is centered, the sector gear probably has wear at the center of its travel and any improvement will require a rebuild of the box and a new sector gear (or rack).

This has worked for me on a number of occasions. I hope it is helpful for others.

Stephen Irons

OK, there is one more question! I notice that one of the "other" suppliers of these greaser tools states that it is only suitable for Corvettes with Manual Steering. Is it OK to use this greaser tool in my '78, with Power steering?

riverracer au

3/8"-16 x 1"long

riverracer au

yeah, that's basically they way i was thinking to do it with my condensed version,
i'm glad i was on the right way of thinking.

Big2Bird

Same box. I do not know why they would say that .

aussiejohn

It's only if you replace your box with an integral power steering box, such as a Borgeson #800108 that uses Power Steering Fluid, that you would not want to introduce a heavy grease into the system.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

Stephen Irons

Thanks guys, or should that be "mates"! Sorry, had to lapse into stereotypes.

Hi John, been a long time - we met back in '99 at the NCM.

aussiejohn

Steve, I was there in 2003 and 2009, not '99, but I remember you. I've been going to SEMA for the last five years straight, but haven't ventured back to Bowling Green. Perhaps for the next Caravan. Will you be going?

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

Stephen Irons

Hi John. Must have been 2003 - the memory is going in old age! I know we all went to Wendel Strode's place...

I really wanted to do the Caravan this year, but the budget doesn't allow it these days We were over in California in 2013 which may have been our "Farewell Tour"! I'd like to think we'll be back there one day, but it'll take a lottery win I suspect

Wg72C3

After reading a few of the posts on the forum, I unscrewed 2 of the steering box cover bolts and added a total of 6 ounces of synthetic Green Grease using a large syringe through one of the bolt holes. Got it at Autozone right off the shelf. I took the car for a test drive and progressively tightened the lash adjuster screw in 1/4 turn clockwise increments until the steering was tight and the play was virtually eliminated. HUGH DIFFERENCE!!!! 60 mph is not so nerve racking anymore although my lack of power brakes still makes it interesting!!

Thanks to everyone on this forum, truly an amazing community.

Stephen Irons

I finally got my buddy to make me a greaser and, today I re-greased the box. I confess I didn't take the "risk" of removing the cover, but pumped in what seemed like a lot of grease! But, looking at the grease gun reservoir and the size of the box, I guess it wasn't as much as it seemed! Haven't had the chance to take the car out to see if it feels any different (its raining!), but it has to be better?