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Another tach question... (Willcox?)

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Old 09-13-2015, 08:05 PM
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jyounane
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Default Another tach question... (Willcox?)

Hi,

I have a 75/76 tach in my 69 with HEI. It has a home made tach filter installed. This has just been installed to replace the mechanical tach.

Problem is... it fluctuates wildly from zero to full scale while cranking but settles instantly and reads correctly once engine starts.

Where should I start looking? This doesn't seem normal. A search on the forum hasn't got me anywhere.

TIA and
Joe
Old 09-13-2015, 08:12 PM
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Big2Bird
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Originally Posted by jyounane
Hi,

I have a 75/76 tach in my 69 with HEI. It has a home made tach filter installed. This has just been installed to replace the mechanical tach.

Problem is... it fluctuates wildly from zero to full scale while cranking but settles instantly and reads correctly once engine starts.

Where should I start looking? This doesn't seem normal. A search on the forum hasn't got me anywhere.

TIA and
Joe
From that symptom, my best guess is the 12volt feeding the gauge is dropping during cranking. Put a VOM on that lead while cranking.
Old 09-13-2015, 09:08 PM
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jyounane
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
From that symptom, my best guess is the 12volt feeding the gauge is dropping during cranking. Put a VOM on that lead while cranking.
Thanks. I'll check that out. I'm pretty sure it's connected into the "pink" ignition circuit.

Joe
Old 09-14-2015, 11:19 PM
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0Willcox Corvette
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
From that symptom, my best guess is the 12volt feeding the gauge is dropping during cranking. Put a VOM on that lead while cranking.


Your car will drop while cranking..

Where is your 12 volt power going to the tach coming from?

The Home Made filter is interesting... The filter is designed to knock the edge off the square signal coming in from the distributor. Oddly enough though, the chip on the factory board and on our reproduction board can read either the square or rounded signal... so I doubt this is your issue.

Willcox
Old 09-14-2015, 11:28 PM
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jyounane
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Thanks Willcox.

I'll check the voltage source while cranking.

The "home made" tach filter design is fairly standard...





Joe
Old 07-17-2018, 02:28 PM
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Kully
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My 82 Corvette tachometer hasn't worked in about 25 years. I replaced the tack filter and that didn't fix the problem. I then replaced the circuit board from Ecklers and that didn't fix the problem. The needle bounces around at random. I lived with the problem for a long time and decided to sell the car. I want to get the tachometer to work so I bought a Willcox circuit board from Ecklers and installed it per Willcoxes video instructions. The tachometer still didn't work so I tried bypassing the tach filter. That smoked my tachometer and now the needle does not budge at all. I just want to warn others that bypassing the distributor output filer may not be a good idea
Old 07-17-2018, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Kully
My 82 Corvette tachometer hasn't worked in about 25 years. I replaced the tack filter and that didn't fix the problem. I then replaced the circuit board from Ecklers and that didn't fix the problem. The needle bounces around at random. I lived with the problem for a long time and decided to sell the car. I want to get the tachometer to work so I bought a Willcox circuit board from Ecklers and installed it per Willcoxes video instructions. The tachometer still didn't work so I tried bypassing the tach filter. That smoked my tachometer and now the needle does not budge at all. I just want to warn others that bypassing the distributor output filer may not be a good idea
Well that makes no sense..

The purpose of the tach filter is to knock the edge off the square signal from the distributor before it hits the tach.... and prevent voltage spikes from hitting the board.

The tach board (even the original GM board) is designed to read both the square and rounded signal so removing the filter for testing shouldn't hurt the tach board.

However if there is another issue such as a defective coil in the distributor, or a defective analog movement then you might have an issue... Our boards have a fuse built into them so if the fuse is blown on the board then there is something else wrong with the car. The best thing you can do at this point is send me the tach and the board and I can test them. If the fuse is blown it's 14.00 to fix... if the movement is bad I can tell you in about 30 minutes. So if you are interested in this email me at service@willcoxcorvette.com.

Willcox
Old 07-30-2018, 09:41 PM
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Bills75
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Willcox Corvette, I just purchased a 75 coupe and the Tach does not work. So if I am reading this correctly, if I replace the old Tach board with a new Tach board from Willcox, I dont need to hook up the old filter?

Just want to make sure that I don't need to purchase a filter also.

Thanks,

Bill
Old 07-31-2018, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bills75
Willcox Corvette, I just purchased a 75 coupe and the Tach does not work. So if I am reading this correctly, if I replace the old Tach board with a new Tach board from Willcox, I dont need to hook up the old filter?

Just want to make sure that I don't need to purchase a filter also.

Thanks,

Bill
I would still run the filter, but you bypass it for testing.

Willcox
Old 07-31-2018, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
I would still run the filter, but you bypass it for testing.

Willcox
So is there a way to pin point if it is a filter issue or board issue?

Thxs
Old 07-31-2018, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Bills75
So is there a way to pin point if it is a filter issue or board issue?

Thxs
Well I'd start with bypassing the filter... Unplug the filter and plug up the tach direct. Both our boards and the GM boards are capable of reading both a square and rounded signal so if doing this for testing you will not hurt the tach, just eliminate and narrow down the issue. I've said it 100 times... as these gauges and our cars age, analog movement failures are becoming more of an issue.

We had a fella send his tach in the other day, he purchased a China made board with washers, he had the original board and then he purchased our board... nothing made the tach work... turns out the analog movement was the issue and when this happens the only fix is ti replace the tach. Unfortunately the only reproduction tach is made over-sea's and this tach has multiple commons unlike the original... so we tweaked our boards (because eventually these will fail too) so that we could fix either the original tach's or the imported ones. Original boards used sine and co-sine with a similar common, repro's don't. Reproduction boards imported are not fused nor are the new replacement tachometers. All our boards are fused, even the low fuel warning modules as well as the delay timers. This prevents damage to the board, it prevents damage to the car and it makes for something that can be repaired cheaply if there is any issue.

If you have replaced your tach board and the tach isn't working my suggestion is to go to our tech page first and try to figure the issue out.. and if you can't send us the tach and board and we'll put it on our test machine to see where the issue is.

Willcox.
Old 08-02-2018, 09:30 PM
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Thanks, Ill go this route to try and isolate which part is bad.

Bill

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