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Neil, a few questions on your center console gauges... Where did you get the center "pod" that holds the 5 small gauges, along with the pod where the radio would be? Are they custom fabbed? My apologies if I missed it earlier, but I really like the clean look there.
Finally, I really like the look of your steering wheel and adaptor. What are you running there?
Neil, a few questions on your center console gauges... Where did you get the center "pod" that holds the 5 small gauges, along with the pod where the radio would be? Are they custom fabbed? My apologies if I missed it earlier, but I really like the clean look there.
Finally, I really like the look of your steering wheel and adaptor. What are you running there?
Thanks!
Troy
Hey Troy, the center gauge panel is actually the factory panel with just some minor trimming for the 2 red toggle switches. The Speed Hut 2 1/16" gauges fit the factory panel perfectly. The radio panel is a plastic DIN adapter panel found on ebay (you'll have to clearance the factory gauge panel or buy one already set up with a DIN sized cutout). The toggle switch panel is from New Vintage and is designed to fit a DIN-sized opening.
The steering wheel hub is an NRG short hub mated to an NRG quick release. The wheel is a Momo Prototipo. The tilt column is still operational, but the telescoping feature is now locked with a bolt. I also relocated the ignition switch to the center console (red key + a redundant starter toggle switch).
Beautiful car with a lot of Attention to Detail, also on the interior! It still has that vintage touch inside, what I like a LOT! Same with the TRACO valve covers... Love it
Beautiful car with a lot of Attention to Detail, also on the interior! It still has that vintage touch inside, what I like a LOT! Same with the TRACO valve covers... Love it
Thank you very much. My goal was to keep the vintage vibe with some modern bits and pieces in the mix. Wait 'til you see what those valve covers are going on next!
I've made a few small updates to the car. I installed a new Wilwood clutch master kit from Silver Sport. I really like the firewall bracket that comes with the kit. I also just updated the driveshaft to a 2.5" .095 wall shaft with 1330 u joints from Ft. Wayne Clutch and Driveline. It was a custom length order and they had it on my doorstep in 2 business days.
OK- what's this with you going with a BIGGER motor??? You just got it on the road- and it's not enough???
Looking forward to seeing it though!!!
I used the same guys for my driveshaft- great to deal with.
As far as the clutch master- I beefed up my firewall- but ended up totally redesigning the mount-and changed the master out for another one as I wasn't getting enough throw.
A tight fit-used some ½aluminum to make a bracket
In the second pic you can see where I beefed up the lower firewall.
OK- what's this with you going with a BIGGER motor??? You just got it on the road- and it's not enough???
Looking forward to seeing it though!!!
Hehe. I like my cars pretty rowdy. Here is the thread I started on the new motor. I'm taking my time and enjoying the car as it is through the nice weather months here in Tampa.
The shot showing the steering column, thats a quick release for the wheel right?
Does it let you keep tele and does the 6 holes match stock c3 wheels?
Do you loose the horn on wheel?
Looking so good,
Thanks
B
Yes, it has a short hub and quick release from a company called NRG. It's much easier to get in and out of the Kirkey seat with the wheel removed. The hub allows the use of a horn button, but I have chosen not to use it at this stage. The tilt is operational, but you have to lock the tele into a fixed position with a bolt. Not a big deal for me and easy to adjust if I ever feel the need. My Momo wheel is the standard aftermarket 6 bolt pattern. I think it's close to stock bolt pattern, but I'm not positive on that (you may have to recenter the wheel or something).
I had some requests to re-post pics of my power steering setup. I re-did this about 4 times before I was happy. Getting rid of the pump groaning noise required a combination of a baffled reservoir, cooler and genuine GM fluid. I also re-shimmed the pump to reduce some twitchiness in the steering. With the Vintage Air Front Runner, it was very difficult to route the lines where they clear the control arm. I tried a few different routings, and I'm liking this one the best so far.
I've started to get the car ready for some autocrossing early next year. I made the decision to start in a street tire class, so I swapped the Hoosiers for a set of BFG Rival S tires. I think the new shoes look good.
Car looks great!! I just finished setting up my remote reservoir and need to get some wheels and tires so I can set it on the ground in preparation of starting the car for the first time. The remote reservoir hose routing was a real PIA, but got it done with about 4 weekends of labor.
What size wheel and tire combo do you have front and rear? wheel size and backspacing would be a tremendous help. Thanks in advance.
Car looks great!! I just finished setting up my remote reservoir and need to get some wheels and tires so I can set it on the ground in preparation of starting the car for the first time. The remote reservoir hose routing was a real PIA, but got it done with about 4 weekends of labor.
What size wheel and tire combo do you have front and rear? wheel size and backspacing would be a tremendous help. Thanks in advance.
Yes, my remote reservoir was a real pain. Here are my wheel and tire sizes:
This should be doable for you. I run 11's with 315's on the front with 4.5" backspace.
Also, you can just change the outer shell to make your wheels 11's.
My car's front flares are pretty tight. I think the vendor made some recent changes to the flare size and contour to allow for the 315 tire. My body guy did radius the flares a bit in the front to buy me some room, but I'm not sure it's enough to run a 315.
10-04-2017, 11:54 AM
