Any benefit to a new manifold only?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Any benefit to a new manifold only?
Is there any real benefit to adding an Edelbrock Performer EPS intake to my otherwise stock 73 L48? I would like to clean up the engine compartment by removing (and storing carefully) the smog related equipment, including A.I.R hoses, EGR, smog pump, etc. Is a Performer or Performer EPS the same deck height of a stock manifold? Would like to keep the Quadrajet and dual snorkle air cleaner. Any minor power gain?
#2
Melting Slicks
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Is there any real benefit to adding an Edelbrock Performer EPS intake to my otherwise stock 73 L48? I would like to clean up the engine compartment by removing (and storing carefully) the smog related equipment, including A.I.R hoses, EGR, smog pump, etc. Is a Performer or Performer EPS the same deck height of a stock manifold? Would like to keep the Quadrajet and dual snorkle air cleaner. Any minor power gain?
There would be a small gain at a higher rpm at the expense of some low end torque. I don't know about the height but you can measure your stock manifold height and compare that to the height specs of the Performer.
#3
Melting Slicks
Like chicken soup, it couldn't hoyt!
I'm sure there'll be a small power gain, but at a minimum it will be a good start to future mods, like headers and free flowing exhaust.
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Redhook98 (11-29-2015)
#4
A performer is a replacement manifold won't give you any problems with your air cleaner.
One of the rags a few yrs ago did a test on a mild 350 using the 2101 performer to see what difference there was between it and the standard chevy iron manifold. It made 9 HP increase as an average not just top rpm. But when you figure rwhp you might see 6 hp. you will lose around 20 pounds of dead weight.
One of the rags a few yrs ago did a test on a mild 350 using the 2101 performer to see what difference there was between it and the standard chevy iron manifold. It made 9 HP increase as an average not just top rpm. But when you figure rwhp you might see 6 hp. you will lose around 20 pounds of dead weight.
Last edited by Little Mouse; 11-28-2015 at 06:38 PM.
#5
Melting Slicks
Agree that it would really clean up the engine compartment!!! If you don't need the exhaust crossover (cold weather) you could block that off too.
But there are other things that need to change to complete the swap.
Choke linkages, Throttle linkage, trans kick down can be major pains...maybe needing new brackets
But there are other things that need to change to complete the swap.
Choke linkages, Throttle linkage, trans kick down can be major pains...maybe needing new brackets
#6
Le Mans Master
Years ago I found one of the below manifolds for a song and decided it would make a great replacement for the manifold Chevrolet never made. An aluminum manifold for the 1973 -1974 L-82 Corvette. The only problem is that there was no place to install the stock Choke Thermostat Coil.
photo courtesy of Paragon Corvette Reproductions
After gently bead-blasting the manifold to clean it up, I took it to my local machine shop and asked them to weld a small, flat rectangle piece of aluminum on top of the exhaust crossover (on the rt side) of the manifold.
This gave me a flat place to mount the choke thermostat coil exactly as it was on the cast iron manifold. I used a dremel to remove evidence of it having been welded on and then drilled and tap'd a hole for the screw that holds the coil to the manifold. It looks about as original as if the factory did it.
I did have to switch to the later model (75-77) EGR valve but that was about it. All of the stock linkages bolted up just as they did on the original manifold.
I've seen these aluminum manifolds on a number of late 70's GM cars that used the Chevrolet "corporate" engine and they're always cheap and hood clearance is never an issue.
Good luck... GUSTO
photo courtesy of Paragon Corvette Reproductions
After gently bead-blasting the manifold to clean it up, I took it to my local machine shop and asked them to weld a small, flat rectangle piece of aluminum on top of the exhaust crossover (on the rt side) of the manifold.
This gave me a flat place to mount the choke thermostat coil exactly as it was on the cast iron manifold. I used a dremel to remove evidence of it having been welded on and then drilled and tap'd a hole for the screw that holds the coil to the manifold. It looks about as original as if the factory did it.
I did have to switch to the later model (75-77) EGR valve but that was about it. All of the stock linkages bolted up just as they did on the original manifold.
I've seen these aluminum manifolds on a number of late 70's GM cars that used the Chevrolet "corporate" engine and they're always cheap and hood clearance is never an issue.
Good luck... GUSTO
Last edited by GUSTO14; 11-28-2015 at 09:27 PM.
#7
Team Owner
Not worth the expense and trouble for any gains you might get. You would net much more benefit from recurving the distributor with a $10 spring/weight set.
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Redhook98 (11-29-2015)
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Redhook98 (11-29-2015)
#9
Le Mans Master
If you have a cast iron GM manifold, certainly good for the weight savings and looks better but in terms of HP, not much...maybe 5 HP....On a high HP built motor..maybe 10-12 HP but when you are talking about motors with 450-500 HP that amount of gain is VERY small and probably not even noticeable in driving....not a fan in general of changing intakes unless you plan to rev the motor 6,500+ rpm...
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Redhook98 (11-29-2015)
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
I guess I was looking at a way of cleaning up the engine compartment more then anything else. This will never be a fast car with this motor. But it is so original, I do not want to molest it much (i.e. no cam, aluminum heads, etc). Is there an easy way to just remove the EGR (i.e. block off plate), or does this require a new manifold?
I have not re-curved the distributor yet, but do have the kit on hand.
I have not re-curved the distributor yet, but do have the kit on hand.
#11
Le Mans Master
I guess I was looking at a way of cleaning up the engine compartment more then anything else. This will never be a fast car with this motor. But it is so original, I do not want to molest it much (i.e. no cam, aluminum heads, etc). Is there an easy way to just remove the EGR (i.e. block off plate), or does this require a new manifold?
I have not re-curved the distributor yet, but do have the kit on hand.
I have not re-curved the distributor yet, but do have the kit on hand.
I have since installed the #2101 Performer. If you want to paint a performer intake manifold to match the engine so it is not so obvious to the casual observer that you have replaced intake), you will save 20 lbs and pick up a cheap 6 rwhp for $100 (great deals on eBay). And, it is a great way to prime the pump for the other top end improvements (Recurve the distributor, tune the carb for performance, K&N filter). Great way to freshen and improve without touching the heads and exhaust (next if you ever want to see bigger gains). I would consider removal of the smog hoses but keep your PCV, EVAP and spark advance hoses.
Last edited by TedH; 11-29-2015 at 11:30 AM.
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Redhook98 (11-29-2015)
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
EGR block-off plates are cheap and easy to install. I put one on my Edelbrock Performer #3701 intake. It used the same gaskets as the EGR valve.
I have since installed the #2101 Performer. If you want to paint a performer intake manifold to match the engine so it is not so obvious to the casual observer that you have replaced intake), you will save 20 lbs and pick up a cheap 6 rwhp for $100 (great deals on eBay). And, it is a great way to prime the pump for the other top end improvements (Recurve the distributor, tune the carb for performance, K&N filter). Great way to freshen and improve without touching the heads and exhaust (next if you ever want to see bigger gains). I would consider removal of the smog hoses but keep your PCV, EVAP and spark advance hoses.
I have since installed the #2101 Performer. If you want to paint a performer intake manifold to match the engine so it is not so obvious to the casual observer that you have replaced intake), you will save 20 lbs and pick up a cheap 6 rwhp for $100 (great deals on eBay). And, it is a great way to prime the pump for the other top end improvements (Recurve the distributor, tune the carb for performance, K&N filter). Great way to freshen and improve without touching the heads and exhaust (next if you ever want to see bigger gains). I would consider removal of the smog hoses but keep your PCV, EVAP and spark advance hoses.
Planned on keeping the PCV and EVAP. Which hoses are the spark advance hoses? Are those the ones going to a solenoid and then to the dist?
I put chambered pipes all the way back already. That was the only other performance oriented mod I was going to make. The car just turned 19k miles. Don't want to molest it much.
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
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Why not just use the ZZ4 intake #10185063? It has a low carb height w/EGR and choke stove. Block the EGR if u want but it really doesnt hurt WOT pwr at all. Also designed to flow like the old Holley LT1 intake.
Best of all it has a huge Chevy bowtie cast into it right where u can see it.
Best of all it has a huge Chevy bowtie cast into it right where u can see it.
#14
Melting Slicks
The Edelbrock Performer EPS (stands for Edelbrock Performer Series) and it was designed to update the old Performer to work better with their carbs.
You should know that on Edelbrocks website, the page that lists the EPS manifold for a SMC, says that it won't fit under a Corvette hood. With that being said, it did fit under the stock hood on our '77 by using a recessed base air cleaner (Edelbrock brand) and a 2.5" tall air filter (I had a 3" with the old "non EPS" Performer intake).
I know your circumstances are a little different due to your stock intake, but thought this might shed some light on potential issues.
Adam
You should know that on Edelbrocks website, the page that lists the EPS manifold for a SMC, says that it won't fit under a Corvette hood. With that being said, it did fit under the stock hood on our '77 by using a recessed base air cleaner (Edelbrock brand) and a 2.5" tall air filter (I had a 3" with the old "non EPS" Performer intake).
I know your circumstances are a little different due to your stock intake, but thought this might shed some light on potential issues.
Adam
#15
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
The EPS is supposed to make another 10+hp or tq cant remember over the original performer fwiw. Not a bad gain over stock
#17
Race Director
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Swapping from a torker open plenum to a performer split plenum on my 454 was way, way worth it, but in my mind no way would swapping the stock split plenum to an aftermarket split plenum be worth it and swapping to an open plenum on an otherwise stock engine will hurt not help...
#19
Team Owner
Go to any auto parts store and buy 2-3 spray cans of Gunk engine degreaser; then drive to the local quarter car wash. Spray one can of Gunk all over the top-side of your engine...carb, intake, etc. and let sit for about 10 minutes. Put $2 of quarters in the box and use TIRE CLEANER to spray on everything under the hood. Then change to high-pressure spray and shoot off the grease. Be careful not to shoot too close to wiring or inlet of carb (don't damage 'soft' parts). Inspect and see how well you did.
If it needs more, spray another can on the engine and let it soak for another 10-15 minutes. Then use high-psi spray to remove 'stuff'. When the engine area is as clean as you need (or, as clean as it's going to get), turn to clear water spray to rinse off, then to SPOT-FREE rinse to re-rinse everything. That way, when it dries, you won't have any residue spots.
NOW you can see how much more you want to do. When you get the 'grime' off, it's easier to decide what you really NEED to do.
If it needs more, spray another can on the engine and let it soak for another 10-15 minutes. Then use high-psi spray to remove 'stuff'. When the engine area is as clean as you need (or, as clean as it's going to get), turn to clear water spray to rinse off, then to SPOT-FREE rinse to re-rinse everything. That way, when it dries, you won't have any residue spots.
NOW you can see how much more you want to do. When you get the 'grime' off, it's easier to decide what you really NEED to do.
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Go to any auto parts store and buy 2-3 spray cans of Gunk engine degreaser; then drive to the local quarter car wash. Spray one can of Gunk all over the top-side of your engine...carb, intake, etc. and let sit for about 10 minutes. Put $2 of quarters in the box and use TIRE CLEANER to spray on everything under the hood. Then change to high-pressure spray and shoot off the grease. Be careful not to shoot too close to wiring or inlet of carb (don't damage 'soft' parts). Inspect and see how well you did.
If it needs more, spray another can on the engine and let it soak for another 10-15 minutes. Then use high-psi spray to remove 'stuff'. When the engine area is as clean as you need (or, as clean as it's going to get), turn to clear water spray to rinse off, then to SPOT-FREE rinse to re-rinse everything. That way, when it dries, you won't have any residue spots.
NOW you can see how much more you want to do. When you get the 'grime' off, it's easier to decide what you really NEED to do.
If it needs more, spray another can on the engine and let it soak for another 10-15 minutes. Then use high-psi spray to remove 'stuff'. When the engine area is as clean as you need (or, as clean as it's going to get), turn to clear water spray to rinse off, then to SPOT-FREE rinse to re-rinse everything. That way, when it dries, you won't have any residue spots.
NOW you can see how much more you want to do. When you get the 'grime' off, it's easier to decide what you really NEED to do.
Thanks, but not a dirt or grease problem. Smog problem.
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mikep3 (12-31-2015)