What to flush an M20 out with?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
What to flush an M20 out with?
I discovered my drivetrain issue is only a TO brg and not the tranny. But when I pulled the magnetic tranny plug to check oil it was covered in metallic sludge. Tranny is removed and I have poured out the old 90w oil but would like to flush the remaining residual oil out also.
Wondering what to use like acetone? Something that wont hurt seals but will remove heavy 90W oil etc.... THX
Wondering what to use like acetone? Something that wont hurt seals but will remove heavy 90W oil etc.... THX
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Great Plains Iowa
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I discovered my drivetrain issue is only a TO brg and not the tranny. But when I pulled the magnetic tranny plug to check oil it was covered in metallic sludge. Tranny is removed and I have poured out the old 90w oil but would like to flush the remaining residual oil out also.
Wondering what to use like acetone? Something that wont hurt seals but will remove heavy 90W oil etc.... THX
Wondering what to use like acetone? Something that wont hurt seals but will remove heavy 90W oil etc.... THX
Its not necessary to flush it out as any crud had settled to the bottom where the drain plug is. Just refill it with 50 weight motor oil.
#3
Safety Car
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2021 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
The only good way to clean em out is to take it apart and then you might as well rebuild it. If it's working good just refill it with a good quality GEAR oil. NOT 50wt !
#4
Drifting
Don't flush with a chemical. If I was going to flush it, I would use warm motor oil, 0w20 or such. Let it drain for a while and refill with the proper lubricant.
#5
Le Mans Master
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When I "flush" rear ends or transmissions using gear oil, I run a little engine oil through and then run a bit of the new fluid through to push that out. After letting it drip for about 10-15 min I put the plug back in and fill with gear oil. No chemicals.
#6
Le Mans Master
As long as its out and you dont run it under load.
FLush it with ATF. It's a light weight oil and high detergent.
Make a mount to bolt it up to a engine stand. Fill it with ATF, use a electric drill to drive the input run it at a slow speed for a minute or 2.
Pull the plug and let it drain overnight.
refill with the mfg recommended wt gear oil and reinstall.
As a note, on all the Muncies I've rebuilt there's always alot of swarf that collects at the bearing cavity where the mainshaft meets the
input shaft.
FWIW I would rebuild it with a small parts kit, new bearings and snychros while its out.
FLush it with ATF. It's a light weight oil and high detergent.
Make a mount to bolt it up to a engine stand. Fill it with ATF, use a electric drill to drive the input run it at a slow speed for a minute or 2.
Pull the plug and let it drain overnight.
refill with the mfg recommended wt gear oil and reinstall.
As a note, on all the Muncies I've rebuilt there's always alot of swarf that collects at the bearing cavity where the mainshaft meets the
input shaft.
FWIW I would rebuild it with a small parts kit, new bearings and snychros while its out.
Last edited by AzMotorhead; 12-01-2015 at 10:49 AM.
#7
Le Mans Master
How about diesel? Or diesel mixed with ATF? Thin, not harsh, and like Az says ATF has lots of detergent action, so it should work to get junk washed out.
Then fill and run, drain and fill again.
Then fill and run, drain and fill again.
#9
Drain plig
You do realize a stock M20 has no drain plug? It only has a fill plug.
Last edited by MelWff; 12-01-2015 at 01:50 PM.
#10
Team Owner
You can flush it, but you probably can't get rid of ALL metallic debris from the tranny. It will 'hide' in bearings and recesses, then come out later to do more damage. Seals have also been compromised.
Disassemble it, clean and inspect all metal parts...especially *****/rollers/races on bearings. Metal debris run through bearings is especially bad on them. Gears can live through that damage; bearings/bushings are more at risk.
With the tranny out, rebuilding it is not that big of a job. If you don't want to do it, call around to some LOCAL (not national chain) tranny rebuild shops and get rebuild quotes. Good ones will likely recommend that you replace bearings and bushings, along with seals.
Disassemble it, clean and inspect all metal parts...especially *****/rollers/races on bearings. Metal debris run through bearings is especially bad on them. Gears can live through that damage; bearings/bushings are more at risk.
With the tranny out, rebuilding it is not that big of a job. If you don't want to do it, call around to some LOCAL (not national chain) tranny rebuild shops and get rebuild quotes. Good ones will likely recommend that you replace bearings and bushings, along with seals.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 12-02-2015 at 10:36 AM.
#11
Racer
#12
Drifting
#14
Safety Car
#15
Burning Brakes
My 68 does as well...
#16
Safety Car
#17
I have my car since February 1973, the build date is November 1969, no drain plug. Anybody know why some of us have one and others dont?
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
Adding to the record...my October 69 has no drain. Only filler plug.
Used the ATF which seemed to work well. Lot of gunk came out so cross fingers and hope she survives at least 10K more before rebuild.
Used the ATF which seemed to work well. Lot of gunk came out so cross fingers and hope she survives at least 10K more before rebuild.
#19
Racer
"As far as drain plugs go, during the 65-69 period, only M-22 model Muncie 4-speeds were originally equipped with a drain plug. Beginning in 1970 with the introduction of the "661" main case, all Muncies got the drain plug. It is very possible, as Stan mentioned, that very late 69s also received the "661" main cases and, consequently, the drain plug. For most Chevrolet car lines (except Corvette and Camaro), the 1970 model year began in the fall of 1969. So, the "661" main case may have been the only one in production by the fall of 1969. My original owner, mid-September 1969 built Corvette has the "660" main case and does not have the drain plug. However, later build 69s (which were built through December) may use the "661" case."
The thread is titled "Need help with Muncie transmission part # and drain plug info".
Hope this answers your question.
The following 2 users liked this post by Majoho:
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