TaiChiGuy

So I had to replace the front crossover line and rear caliper line because the flare nuts were frozen (despite PB Blaster, etc) and sheared the brake line. I ordered new stainless steel lines for my 71.

The stainless steel lines just don't want to seal at the proportioning valve and master cylinder. They're tough to bend/tweak, especially as the bends are so close to the flare nut. And my tubing bender can't get in that tight.

But one of the SS lines perfectly tweaked and squared to the master cylinder yet it still leaked. And playing and slightly tweaking it more did not allow the tube to be better seated so it would stop leaking in the middle around the SS tube. I've switched back to the old steel tubes, retweaking them into place-no leaks there now.

SS front crossover line is another story as the right front brake connection had sheared off the line. And it's a really tight 90 there... But it's leaking, and it's the bitchy connection at the bottom of the proportioning valve. Any tricks, tip, advice appreciated. TIA!

pws69

I had a few stubborn leaks when I did put Stainless lines in. If you loosen, then tighten a few times, then tighten a bit more on the last time, that usually seals them up. Takes patience! Make sure you have a good set of flare nut wrenches.

iandm

Check swadgelok fittings

ronarndt

Ditto to Alan's suggestion to get everything lined up before cranking down on the fitting. Especially since the SS is such a hard metal that it will not deform like regular steel to compensate for minor differences in the shape of the fittings. I use SS fittings for the sterile processing machines for vaccine manufacturing and you cannot believe how much the fittings cost so that a positive seal is guaranteed. Nice shiny metal, but hard to work with.

iandm

We use it for steam lines

gungatim

I've never understood the fascination with stainless lines. I've helped several people install them (against my recommendation) just because I have the right tools and a lift. every one of them complains of leaks/weeping. If I am not using good quality steel lines, I use copper like the imports use...they never have trouble sealing like SS and I've never gotten a call back using them...

Swiftrider08

Nut and ferrule fittings like Swagelok are not intended to be used in automotive brake systems and should never be used for that purpose. Stick with plain steel lines and avoid all the issues. Plain steel lines will last 30-40 years like the first set on your Vette did.

Oh and NEVER use Copper for brake lines! Modern imports don't use copper brake lines.

DUB

I agree...they work and last but in time can fail depending on what they are exposed to.

I AGREE...I WOULD NOT use COPPER for brake lines....but the European type lines are not copper...but rather a copper/nickel alloy. AND I hate to 'say' it...I have used them and they are awesome. BUT keep in mind that I do use the spiral spring wrap to go onto the line before I do my last inverted flare or whatever flare I need to do to protect the line itself.

From what I have read about this alloy of line...it surpasses stainless and the original steel design when fatigue tested. And knowing that the lines are secured to the frame with clamps....the amount of movement should be little to none. And where the lines go to the master cylinder....if these lines are given a few spirals...that takes any issues there out of the scenario also.... And from what I have been told..(so I can not confirm this)..because where I get my line. This stuff is expensive and that is the reason it is not used here in the states...a COST issue....and still wanting to use steel.

TRUST ME....I am skeptical about many things....and this was one of them...but I have no worries about using them if done correctly.

I am also sick and tired of stainless lines. They are WAY too hard...and YES...tightening them and then loosening them and then tightening them again and so on can get you to where they do not leak. BUT...do NOT be surprised that IF you do not get the line straight into the part...the flare from the line can actually put a bad notch or nick in the taper in your fitting or part....thus ALMOST making it impossible to get it to seal.

DUB

mikem350

I use regular steel replacement lines, and spray with a automotive wheel clear coat for more rust protection.

No way would I go thru the pain of stainless....

Danish Shark

Modern "Copper" brake lines are not actually copper, they are Copper-Nickel alloy, which is superior to steel.

gungatim

sorry should have specified it's not copper like you buy for gas and water, it is the cupri-nickel...Volvo uses them on a lot of vehicles and you can buy it cheap in large rolls...

TaiChiGuy

interesting... copper flare gasket



Is this suppose to go on before the tube is flared so the top of the cone is in direct contact with the nut? Or if at the end of the flare tub, is there a trick to keeping it centered in place while fitting the tube at various installation angles?

Copper safe to use on brakes? Surprised there aren't "rubber" flare gasket....

gungatim

interesting concept, haven't seen those before. safe on brakes? well, you know most calipers I work on have copper washer to seal the flexible line to the caliper, so I don't see why it wouldn't be safe...will definitely get some of those for my buddy's chevelle we did the disc brake conversion on that still has leaky ss lines...

DUB

YES...copper is safe because they use a thin copper gasket between the rubber brake hose that screws into your front caliper to seal it.

RUBBER SEALS...the pressure at your calipers are way too high and it would not be something that would hold up. The psi can be from 800 to 1500 psi...if not much higher if it has a hydro-boost system.

DUB

Gale Banks 80'

We use these Copper Seals on JIC AN Hydraulic Fittings which uses a 37 deg Flare. This is not the common Flare used on Brake lines. I have never seen them used on brake lines, but that does not mean they can not.
For what ever its worth, I bought my Stainless Brake lines threw VB&P and I'm pretty sure they were made by Classic Tube. Each and every line was an exact fit and I didn't need to bend anything at all to get the Threads started. I have had no leaks what so ever.

TaiChiGuy

My 71 SS brake line set also came from VB&P as well as the four caliper O-ring caliper upgrade kits. Master cylinder lines clearly do not resemble what's there nor even a near fit and unable to achieve a good seal. Front crossover line missed proportion valve by an inch or two as well as the angling to it and unable to achieve seal at proportioning valve. Didn't try installing the long driver rear brake line nor rear crossover. Almost there but had to tweak left front brake line, but leaks at proportioning valve. The two rear caliper lines seem ok and the only two lines that didn't have problems.

I've called VB&P two or three times for advice. Never got a return call from their tech. Sigh... Expected better from VB&P. I'm going back to steel lines.

BTW, the copper seal is so soft compared to the stainless steel flare, the flare nut, and the receiving flare that it probably readily deforms and seals... And the flare angle not as critical.

gungatim

I wonder if you can take some copper sheet, anneal it, punch a disc out with the HF punch/die set and put in a piece of flared line with the tool and make your own...may go out to the shop and try this....

DUB

FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH:

From what I have found....even though I have custom made a flare wrench that will tighten and loosen the left brake line that goes into your left junction block in the rear. IF you go and remove and replace the long line on the left....LEAVE the junction block attached to the line when you begin to take it out. Notice it clocked position and then put it on your new line and put it back in. You may need to do a little tweaking....but trying to get the line to thread into his block with the body on and tighten the fitting is NOT fun unless you make a tool....due to where the junction block is and how well a flare wrench works.

DUB

Chucknorbid

I have a lot of leaks with stainless flares.What I do is take my flaring tool and lube it and run the flare tool 2 or 3 times with a lot of pressure and have had good luck with this method.I flare all lines I buy know even the steel ones. Just a tip I have had results with.

Primoz

I'm just looking in buying the whole kit from Willcox for my corvette and was looking at SS kit and regular one. And after you guys wrote here I am leaning toward the regular steel lines. Although bare in mind that my corvette is weekend driver and never driven in wet conditions.