Please help with 327 removal!?!
I believe the inspection cover can stay in place because the fly wheel and clutch are coming out too if the bell housing is in place.
When removing the engine with the bell housing still bolted to the rear flange of the engine you need to be aware of a couple of things…
The front of the transmission must be supported before you begin the lift.
Secondly you'll need to slide the engine straight forward before you begin to lift up at all because of the length of the transmission's front shat, so make sure that you have clearance at the front of the engine… you don't want to have the fan hit the radiator.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Dec 22, 2015 at 08:34 AM.





You have both motor mounts disconnected, starter cable, all carb linkage, tach cable, brake booster vac line if applicable, altenator connections, fan shroud, radiator removed.
I just walked around the motor clock wise from memory.
It has been suggested by those with more experience than I that you reinstall the motor with the trans attached to avoid damaging the front input shaft. It will avoid bending it.
I would drop the trans first. Then put it on a safe dolly from Home Depot and wheel it in the corner till your ready for it.
Suggested since space is at a premium for you.
There is an engine hoist that allows you to tilt the engine in with trans attached. Have a couple buddies there to guide it so it doesn't break the fire wall.
A cats paw between the bell housing and the trans might dislodge the two. Go slow and easy they are both aluminum.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your rebuild.
A fellow 68ter.

Marshal
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You need to look under the car and see the angle of the tranny then try and get the engine on the same angle. It will have to move forward first and then up. I usually unbolt the bellhousiing and just take the engine out
Last edited by MotorHead; Dec 22, 2015 at 01:28 PM.










