454Luvr

I need to replace the weatherstrip on my T-tops, so I've been searching for tips and techniques online. One article said to use post seal instead of weatherstrip adhesive. Post seal is the non-hardening black sealant used to install auto glass. Has anyone here done this?

Also, I think the WS in my tops might have been replaced before. There's quite a bit of black adhesive squeezed out all the way around on each top. Are there any special techniques for getting this stuff off?

toobroketoretire

I replaced my weatherstripping about 10 years ago and it was so stiff it caused the glass to separate from the frame. So be sure to get quality SOFT weatherstripping from one of the major Corvette parts vendors.

454Luvr

Thanks, I just bought new weatherstrip from Willcox. It's softer than what's on the tops now, so I'm sure it will work OK. I'm just concerned it might take all day to clean up the old stuff, wondering if there are any shortcuts to removing the adhesive. Speaking of adhesive, is 3M black weatherstrip adhesive the same as RTV? I've only use their yellow adhesive.

hugie82

On the T tops I barely used any RTV . The push through tabs hold pretty good and if I have a loose one.

DUB

RTV and weatherstrip adhesive are two totally different things. Use the 3M weatherstrip adhesive.

#m 8984 will soften and remove the old weatherstrip adhesive.

AND...you you are dealing with GLASS TOPS....and NOT painted tops...BE CAREFUL!!!!!!! And when you are setting the tops in for the fist time...MAKE SURE that the weatherstrip lays ON TOP OF the center section of the car FIRST.....because if the weatherstrip rolls back and you leave it that way...it will take that shape and you will never get it out...SO the first time install is CRITICAL. AND....depending on the 'spine' of the weatherstrip where the pins are installed.....you will either have a spine with not density to it...and the pins can push throguh the weatherstrip itself due to being too soft...or you can have a spine that is much more rigid..and this rigidity and thickness can effect how the top goes in.

TOO SOFT of spine can cause the weather strip to want to easily be damaged....to hard or thick of spine can make trying to pull and stretch it to get the pins in correct a fun task.

I just did a set and they were FUN....and I have done dozens over the years ALSO...be aware of the four Phillips headed screws that hold the weatherstrip on the top above where the door glass seals. BE CAREFUL with them. There are caged square nuts on the backside..and if the screw binds up too much...the nut will spin and then that is FUN to correct also.

Some times things do not go as planned.,..so you might find that you will have to carefully cut things away to get to things to need to...so you can repair things.

DUB

454Luvr

Can I just bring this car up to NC and pay you to fix everything? Seriously, thanks for all the great advice! How many years have you been a Corvette mechanic?

DUB

30+ years

DUB

454Luvr

It sure shows, you seem to know the entire length and width of these cars. Thanks for the great advice, I'm always glad to hear from you when I need help with something.

DUB

THANKS for the compliment.,.,,.,and I do the best I can to help. I experience so MANY different things in a given week...especially when it comes to TRYING to install some of the parts available today...it just makes me go

I know it never will happen....but I would LOVE to either:

1.) Sit in on the discussion where the 'bean counters' are trying to find away to save a penny. And doing so...they alter a part. And these same 'bean counters' more than likely NEVER held a screwdriver in years or knows what one is...OR even KNOW how to install what they WANT to save money on.

2.) Then I want to stand there with a cattle prod and every time THEY try to install it and it can NOT be installed as it should ( due to them saving a penny)...I shock them. THEN...maybe they would LEAVE things alone and REALIZE that many of US will pay the money for a GOOD part..and not some cheap piece of garbage.

I have not written this in a while and just my view on this:

95% of the time....95% of the companies who make parts, make them to 95% of being correct...AND it TAKE 95% of MY TIME to finish out that last 5% so the part is actually right.

DUB

hunt4cleanair

I am completing a set of 1978 glass t-tops and agree with Dub here. So a few additional considerations. Dub may offer his experience with these particulars.

With glass both adhesive and a urethane product was used. The urethane was used to secure the frame to the glass. This is thick and very difficult to remove with adhesive cleaner. I concluded adhesive remover is off over the counter like my dog's Tramadol due to either ATF or FDA regulation. Took me an exacto knife, razor blades and much patience. This is the gooey stuff that oozed all over on my t-tops. I just cut it down to the glass leaving a nice edge to secure the WX stripe.

Use two sets of hands. I elected to put adhesive on each surface, let it tack and then applied a bead on the glass in the groove between glass and frame. I manipulated the WX Stripe while my partner held it away from the frame until ready to set.

Don't use adhesive on the section of WX stripe where the screws are used. You'll need this loose to adjust to the glass.

My WX stripe came from Wilcox and once it set fit snugly onto the t-top roof frame.

I also replaced the trim around the top...another interesting project. Hope this helps!

454Luvr

Thanks for all the good advice. I did think about contact cement, but man, you better get the parts aligned right the first time! I'm hoping the black 3M is a little more forgiving than that. My car has the painted tops. I foresee a lot of work getting the old adhesive off. It's squeezed out all the way around the weatherstrip on both tops.

DUB

I AGREE. ( which is WHY I ask what type of T-top a person has)

On mirror glass tops...the urethane that was used to make the top often times is what is holding the weatherstrip in ALONG with the push pins.

YES..I cut it with a razor blade...trying to get it flush and leave as much of the urethane as possible BUT...not bulging so the weatherstrip sits flat as needed.

I use the 3M weatherstrips adhesive when I am installing it ...but that is just me.

ALSO...I do another step on BOTH types of T-tops. When the weatherstrip is in place. I take some of my CRL1716 and pump a bead all the way around where the weatherstrip contacts the t-top itself....so water can not even get in this area. I do not worry about the area above the door glass.

DUB

454Luvr

Sorry to resurrect this older thread, but I'm finally into the job. Just have a few more questions...

Thanks for all that info! I could really use a little more instruction on the adhesive. Do you apply it to the t-top and the weatherstrip both? Do you apply it to the bottom (under the WS) AND the wall where the pins push through? Do you apply it all the way around? Incidentally, when I removed the weatherstrip, I noticed that there's no adhesive on the section above the window glass. Is that normal? I don't see how it could be applied there, but I want to be sure. Finally, the section above the glass in the new weatherstrip (Willcox) has slotted holes for the screws. I also think they might be a little larger than the originals. Have you used this WS? I'm wondering if I need to get some nylon washers so the heads don't pull through.

hunt4cleanair

The recommendation is to apply adhesive to both surfaces and allow it to get tacky. Once tacky, then apply to both surfaces and apply the WX stripe to the t-top surface. Have an extra set of hands to keep the WX stripe up and away so the WX stripe isn't flopping around and smearing the adhesive.

Note there are different methods for applying the adhesive. This method seemed the most practical for the t-top WX stripe.

The wall is the frame and I noted that adhesive was not applied originally. Avoid applying adhesive to the frame in the event WX Stripe must be replaced at a later date.

Good observation! You want to maintain movement to adjust the t-top to the window glass. Note that the slots where the screws are installed...that's to slide it toward or away from the glass. If you apply adhesive here...then you compromise your ability to adjust the t-top WX stripe to the window glass

I'm not sure I understand your reference here but I used the Willcox WX stripe. I would avoid using nylon washers that would create another layer of adjustment.

DUB

Once again...SO MUCH depends on the integrity of the weatherstrip itself as I wrote in post #5. Some weatherstrips are GOOD and some are CRAP!

Where to glue or NOT to glue depends on the weatherstrip.

In some cases....I install and pin the weatherstrip because it will allow it.... and then go back and apply a sealer between weatherstrip and top frame to seal any water from getting around the weatherstrip.

DUB

0Willcox Corvette

A common mistake made time and time again... The portion over your head where the screws are must be adjusted so do not glue it.

454Luvr

I guess the WS on my tops was replaced previously. They did a neat job, but black RTV was used on the wall and top frame both, enough to be slightly squeezed out at both edges all the way around the top (except the strip above the window glass). The WS came off OK, but I've already spent hours trying to remove all the old adhesive from the first top. What a pain.

About the new WS, I'm planning to apply 3M adhesive to the two areas on either side of the adjustable strip, where the WS goes down into the large channels. I'll push the WS down into those channels, then install the screws. Then I'll lay a bead of adhesive all along one side under the WS and press the pins into place on that side. Next I'll do the same thing for the second side, then the third. I think this will let me put the WS down into the adhesive before it skins over and not have the risk of a huge mess from running a bead on the entire WS at once. Anyway, that's the plan. I haven't used this particular adhesive before, so I'll run a short bead on something else first to see how fast it sets up. That should give me a better idea of how to proceed. Thanks for mentioning that it isn't needed on the walls where the pins go through. That will save a lot of trouble.