bigbird3533

1981, 4-speed. When I start the car, the "Choke" light comes on. As soon as that light goes out, the "Generator" ("Battery" icon) light comes on. The voltmeter is pegged to the left the whole time. It moves up when the choke light goes off, but it's still below the "8" volt mark. It's definitely not reading the voltage of the battery, which is fully charged. This just started happening. No recent changes to the car's electrical system.

I'm getting "Choke", "Check Engine", and "Fasten Belts" in the "On" position. "Fasten Belts" sometimes does not occur. The generator light is not coming on in the "On" position. Should it be?

I took it to Advance Auto and they said the alternator tested OK. Was putting out 14+ volts under a heavy load. If they're correct, what else should I do? Could the alternator pass a load test and still have something wrong with it to cause the above symptoms?

MelWff

did you determine why the check engine light is on by reading the code using the "paperclip" method?
http://www.aldlcable.com/

Rescue Rogers

Have you done anything in the way of repairs lately. I was trying to fix some dash light problems and it was a bad ground. Hopefully its something that easy

mikem350

If the alt is reading 14+ then look elsewhere (should be OK).

Check fuses and grounds, and as said get codes from ecu.

If you can read schematics, look at the wiring for the choke and volt meter circuits

bigbird3533

Those are the lights in the "On" position with the engine not running. Just when I turn the key to "On". It's not really reporting an error code.

I'd like to know if other '80 - '81 owners see the same lights when they turn their key to "On", but don't start the engine.

I'm guessing "Check Engine" and "Seat Belts" should NOT be on. Rather, the "Generator" light should when you just turn the key to "On". Again, I'd like to confirm that with other owners.

If I'm seeing the wrong lights with key "On", engine "Off", that could be a clue as to what's wrong.

bigbird3533

About 6 years ago I took the dash apart to get to the heater core to replace it. I guess it could be related to that.

Can you tell me where the bad ground was located? Did you have to take out the gauge cluster again to get to it? How did you find which ground was bad?