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Here is my February update:
The trailing arms, new rotors and polyurethane ended strut rods are ready for reinstallation and I'm out today cleaning up the bits & pieces and getting ready to make up a final shopping list to include the springs and shocks.
Are there any published specs for the side yoke end play? I can feel some play but haven't measured it yet.
Other than that that I'm still plugging along!
I don't think there are any known specs on end play. There are lots of opinions. Some say, anything over 1/8 inch should be rebuilt/ replaced. Definitely at .25, it should be repaired.
I checked the play last night with a dial indicator and came up with .050" on the right and .037" on the left.
Any thoughts from the experts?
Thanks
Scott
It's too bad you never had the chance to drive your '72 when it was new. You'd know how well these cars drive and handle when the stock parts are functioning the way they were intended. The parts you have don't need to be "upgraded," they need to be renewed. Going back with stock specification suspension parts will give you a car that's virtually perfect for the street. In fact, I really want to caution you about installing higher rate springs and sway bars for the use you've described. Those things are great for the track where the road surface is smooth and well-maintained, but they increase the effects of unsprung weight. Your car might feel better because it doesn't lean quite as much, but in fact, it will handle worse. The suspension will become less compliant, and instead of sticking to an irregular road surface in a turn, the tires will skitter across the tops of the irregularities. That means the car will either have to be driven through turns more slowly, or it will skate off the road. I just want to add that I did a heck of a lot of work on my '72 during the years I had it, and that included the suspension. By far, the best performance on the street was achieved by tuning with tires and shocks, not by changing the factory suspension. I eventually went back to all factory pieces, and you can believe there are more than a few turbo Porches, Panteras and hot shot bikers in Dallas, TX who could attest to the handling and acceleration of that vehicle.
Yeah, get the best shocks and tires with new rubber everything, and you will get the best handling possible for a street car.
I checked the play last night with a dial indicator and came up with .050" on the right and .037" on the left.
Any thoughts from the experts?
Thanks
Scott
If that is all you have, I'd leave it alone. I would check at the end of each driving season, but, you have a lot of wear left. How many miles did you say are on that car?
Well I just finished a total overhaul of my rear suspension in my 76. It took the better part of 2 months to get everything done. I ordered small parts and pieces from ecklers but all big components I chose to go through Duntov in which I thought they had the best overall deals. With the exception of the half shafts which I purchased through Ft Wayne Clutch and Driveshaft. Honestly, I couldnt be more pleased with how everything turned out. Overall I did a lot of scrubbing, repainting/powder coating and rebuilt the differential. My overall goal was to replace the old stock suspension with F41 components. If you have any questions please let me know. Picks to follow.
Final product. I took the trailing arms to a local shop and had them powder coated for significantly less then what it would have cost to send them out to an online shop. It was about $400 less.
Rair Lt1, I would give Paul or Dan at Van Steel a call. I am in the same spot you are, I had the entire rear out of my car, everything needed help, I call and talked to them, they were able to give me some great insite on what I might or might not need, how I was going to drive the car etc
Good Luck
I didn't do this to my 72 LT1, but I did on the 79 I am reviving. I got all my parts from Vansteel: I recommend rebuiling the trailing arms while they are out. The 79 has 47K on is, the driver side yoke had a lot of play. so I took the entire rear suspension out to refresh, when I took the passenger side trailing arm out it had some bad bearing wear.
Not sure how the yoke were made on the 72, but if they anything similar to the 79. I recommend replace both yoke and seal.
Here's a few pics. I decided to pint everything black, the paint I use does not allow anything to stick on it and does a great job preventing rust.
Last edited by newbie2vette; 02-16-2016 at 07:32 AM.
If that is all you have, I'd leave it alone. I would check at the end of each driving season, but, you have a lot of wear left. How many miles did you say are on that car?
Mortgageguy,
The car has 130,000 one family miles on it and hasn't been abused, just driven. Prior to this teardown, there have not been any strange noises or indications that the diff had any issues, and I have checked the function of the Positraction a few times with positive results!
Since the roads on my side of the state are really bad, I'm 45 minutes from Chicago in Deerfield, I can imagine Peoria probably has its fair share of rough roads too. I like you have a small block convert and it is mostly in original condition. Like you I want to drive it. My suspension consists of a VBP 360 lb rear fiberglass monospring with Delco stock replacement shocks. I have had Bilsteins shocks and the ride was really harsh, great product and quality but better for the track. I also went with Speed Directs front coilover setup up front with 400lb springs and with my 17" wheel and tire combo the ride is fantastic, not bouncy and believe me it can take a corner. I am very happy with this combo and I have had other Vette owners drive it and they felt and some did the same. Can easily be put back to stock and you will save some weight in the back with the monospring. Do not use the TRW monospring replacement it seems to raise the back up to high. My .02 cents
If your smart you'll not do too many aftermarket upgrades to a 72 LT-1 roadster. The factory F-41 type suspension upgrade I did on my 72 LT-1 coupe gave me an autocross championship not too many years ago, while keeping the car in a nice zone for street driving. The best F-41 leaf springs are made by Eaton Spring in Michigan and the early 550in/lbs front F-41 springs should work without having to cut spring length from the front coils. With a roadster you have to be careful about installing too stiff of a shock and stress cracking the body, either Bilstein HD (not the stiffer Sports) or Koni shocks would work well along with a 1.125" front bar 7/16" rear sway bar combination. Installing a Borgeson steering box would be a great upgrade too. I like factory rear strut rods properly rebuilt myself, they work quite well especially if they are the correct early small bushing type your car had stock (looks like a bigger bushing strut rod in your picture.)
Mortgageguy,
The car has 130,000 one family miles on it and hasn't been abused, just driven. Prior to this teardown, there have not been any strange noises or indications that the diff had any issues, and I have checked the function of the Positraction a few times with positive results!
The slotted "Daisy" style posi clutch packs were used beginning in about 1972, my LT-1 posi worked fine but had a few cracked friction discs in the clutch pack. Having a guy like Trac Dogg look it over wouldn't be a bad idea, parts are really expensive if it fails.
Well it's been several months now, so how about an update? I was uploading a few other pics today so I thought I'd add these. As always any project will have some scope creep and this was no exception. I was OK with the end play on my half shaft yokes but I had a seepage of gear lube from the drivers side so the Diff had to come out....put new yoke seals and an extended vent, gave it a good cleaning, inspection, then painted and re assembled it with new drive shaft U-joints while it was apart. I filled it up, bolted it to the crossmember, added the front mount and driveshaft and with some help, jacked it up and in place in about five minutes!
the rest of the assembly was really not much more that cleaning, painting and reassembly with the new parts. I replaced all 6 U-Joints, laid the parts out, then went to work! a day or so later the Vette was back on all 4 wheels and just needed the spare tire carrier and exhaust put back on.
I understand Gary at VTech sold out, who did your t-arms? Gary or the new guy?
Gary was still there when I had these done. However when I picked them up, I did meet "the new guy". I think they were transitioning around the time I had them done (back in February/March).
I put mine back stock except for the fiberglass spring, good monroe shocks, and rubber bushings. New brake lines all over, rubber brake line changes to flex stainless ones. Put a rear strut rod on(mine did have any) larger front strut rod. new drive line u-joints(greaseable ones, no power in this stock engine) plenty of elbow grease to clean all parts and painted stock colors. also cleaned up the frameand floor boards in this area and cans of paint! sent a-arms off to be refurbished, they can back already painted, new rotors while there, stock brake pads, stainless emergency brake parts and pads.
02-13-2016, 03:14 PM
