hdal

Doing my homework here. Looking to install some Hooker 1 5/8"competition headers on my 78'Sil Ann,auto,a/c,p/s,no smog pump. Will all the stock brkts,a/c,alt and OEM starter still work? Trying to justify modding the car in any way,hoping for a clean install! Can this be done without a hoist/lift? Thanx,guys. Hdal

resdoggie

Its easier with a hoist but you can use jack stands and a floor jack with at least 16" lift. You will need a new AC bracket. Anyway, installation is not hard.

hdal

Res,do you have to drop the starter or lift eng either side? I understand GOOD gaskets & bolts are a must? What about heat wrapping to keep the inside from cooking?Hdal

resdoggie

I have a 4-sp but I dont think your auto tranny would interfere except maybe the tranny dipstick. Remove your spark plugs to be safe. I also had to remove the oil sender switch. Your AC compressor may get in the way for bolting up the header but I think you will need to remove the AC bracket and replace it with an after market one designed for the header. It's not a hard job to do but when it doesn't slide up from underneath, then something is in the way and needs to be removed or else the header needs to be angled another way. With the AC compressor removed, you maybe able to drop the header down through the top. Might also want to disconnect the negative battery cable. Some folks use heat wrap and some don't. I don't but I live in a more moderate climate.

Yes, use a quality gasket. I use a laminated aluminium gasket made by Percys. Its reusable. Make sure the header flanges are straight and true. I use bolts with a 3/8" head because clearance can be tight in some areas. Allen head bolts are also a nice option. You shouldn't need to lift the engine.

KapsSA

Corvette's the easiest car I ever put headers in!
No need to jack up the motor.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the spark plugs and shielding. Remove the driver side heat stove and passenger side preheat solenoid and linkage.
Remove the exhaust pipes from the manifolds.
Unbolt the AC compressor, do not disconnect lines, and tie it over out of the way.
Remove the AC bracket that mounts with the front exhaust manifold bolt. Notice the thickness of the exhaust manifold at that front bolt, subtract the thickness of the header flange, and fab a spacer the size of the difference(or a stack of washers). I have a pic if needed. No need to replace any AC mounts 77-82.
Pull the dipstick tube.
Remove the manifolds.
Remove the oil filter for a little wiggle room.
Can't remember if you need to remove the starter, but it might give you some working room. You'll see when you get there.
Other things might pop up, you'll see when it happens. Like the oil pressure sender, maybe some room gained by moving the alternator out of the way.
Decide if you want sparkplug wires to come from above or stay tucked underneath. I chose to keep them underneath as factory. And never was changing sparkplugs easier than after the header install!
Pretty sure both side headers will slip up from below, but as mentioned you need some working room underneath.
You'll probably want to relocate the ground cable that mounts from the frame to the starter brace. I bolted it up by the fuel pump, using the bolt for the lower AC support.
I used both jackstands and a hoist to work on installing and 25 years later removing my headers. Promptly put the headers and entire exhaust system off my 79 onto another guy's 78.

SH-60B

I can remove/replace my 1 5/8 long tubes by just driving up on 9" ramps . Also removing the spark plugz. I used a short length of steel pipe to make up for the difference in the header flange thickness to the manifold thickness for the mounting bracket.

ykf7b0

I have just completed the installation of headers on my 76 with auto, ac,ps, and no smog pump. I will recommend Hooker Competition Ceramic Coated Headers (2456 1HKR). Be sure and watch E-bay (holleyperformance) for a scratch, dent, or blemish deal. I got mine for under $200.00 and couldn't tell anything was wrong with them. You will be amazed how much cooler things are under hood with these. I even use really cheap plug wires with no problems. I do use Hookers ac bracket ($30..00) even though I think I could have modified the factory bracket to make it work. I also went with a Powermaster mini starter to eliminate any future problems with heat or removal. You will be able to get the Hookers in if you jack the front high as you possibly can and sit it on jack stands and come in from the bottom. You will be happy in the end!

Street Rat

I've put a couple of sets of the Hooker Competition headers on my '81. These are a breeze to put on. Easiest install on headers that I've ever done. Wow. Something easy on a Corvette.
Get about 16" to 24" of clearance and you will be fine.
I use the Fel-Pro 1444 exhaust gaskets and Loctite blue on the header bolts.
I've never had a leak with this combination.
Put the forward #7 cylinder bolt in first on the driver side. Also the #1 rear bolt on the driver side.
Some bolts that are hard to get to can be easily accessed from underneath (#7 cylinder rear).

Good luck and we love photos of installs.

toobroketoretire

And headers really look cool...............

hdal

Thanx guys! I'm collecting all this information and parts in advance,car is still in storage. The headers were ceramic coated,I'm thinking of ht-taping them but how do ya get ea tube down to the collector? I'm also changing the seats out to 79'oyster. Gonna be a chore as donor seats are red,lol. Getting kind of itchy as weather is starting to break here in Mich. Hdal

Priya

Would you be interested in buying my 79 oyster seat covers and cushions? I'll be looking to sell the door panels and inner door handles as well. I'm changing to silver. You can see them in the pictures here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-project.html

cv67

Wouldnt heat wrap them if they are coated

Didnt know they were so easy on the C3. Jack it up only 9"?

I have to pull the motor on my A body. Equal length headers

hdal

Priya,sent ya a pm. I'm very interested in your seat's. Hdal

Priya

PM replied to.

MotorHead

Everyone's talking about installing the headers which should not be that hard however did anyone recommend how to hook up the header collector to the existing / stock exhaust pipes ?

ykf7b0

After the header installation I carried the car to a muffler shop and got new exhaust pipes with Magnaflow mufflers. I will recommend the OP get some 3 into to 2 1/2 collectors/reducers if getting a new 2 1/2 exhaust. If he/she is going to use existing exhaust then get the appropriate collector/reducer for what size exhaust is there. (2 1/4 maybe?) I'm saying to bring your collector/reducer only because my muflfer shop didn't stock them. The muffler shop will take care of the rest from that point on.

cv67

Those reducers are less than $30 at Summit well worth it

x2 just picked up 2 intakes from them (Hollley 300-25 and 300-110 Dornton) that were returned 1 had a slight blemish easily fixable.
1/2 price cant beat it!

hdal

The used Hookers I bght came with a nice"H"pipe with the collector adapter's welded on,then reduced to 2 1/2"pipe out the back. 1st I'll install headers then H pipe and have custom 2 1/2"pipes to muffl's made. Should be fun,I hope...........Hdal

Street Rat

I used the matching Hooker exhaust system. That made mine easy.

hdal

Street,you mean from the header back? And their muffl's? Was it 2 1/2"? Sound good no-doubt........