Logan176

I'm going to take some pictures of the manifold in good lighting when I get home today. I didn't see a place for that to bolt into but I can very easily be wrong.

MelWff

this sounds like a continuation of your other thread where I also pointed out the missing parts of the choke mechanism. You need to post pictures of the intake immediately under the existing choke components and also any identifying marks on the intake so people can determine what intake is on the car.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...this-carb.html

Logan176

Mel, you're correct. It was not my intention, but both these threads are now overlapping. I started this thread with the intention of trying to figure out why the fuel shot out of the carb and hit the ceiling, but both turned into threads about the choke.

It would probably make sense if someone merged the threads together.

Logan176

Here are the pics of the manifold. Other than "performer rpm," I found no other markings or numbers.

Highperf454

Some of the Holleys came with hollow plastic floats and when they get filled with gasoline the float will sink to the bottom of the bowl and the fuel pump will shoot gasoline out of the vent tube. I've had it happen so I recommend only the newest black Nytrophyl floats that are a solid foam material that will never get filled.

MelWff

Based on your pictures you have a Performer RPM 7101 which has no provisions for a heated style choke. You will have to install an electric choke conversion kit. You can power it from the fuse box using the post marked IGN. Install a 10 amp fuse inline. The choke kit is part# 45-223 or 45-224, I would call Holley Tech support to find out which is the correct one for a 6239-1 divorced choke.

Solid LT1

You have a factory Holley carb with a choke made for an intake manifold mounted choke coil. Your Edelbrock intake won't have the proper provisions for a factory style choke on a Holley Carb. You choke linkage has been cudge fxxked by some idiot so it won't work. The part that sets the fast idle is bent away from the plastic cam.

Here is my YouTube video of my wife's 70 LT-1 for reference at about the 2min 40second part of the video.

Solid LT1

You CANT put a Holley electric choke on a factory Holley carb set up for a divorced choke. If the car the OP is working on is an LT-1 Vette, they should hunt up a factory intake and go from there.

CheezMoe

Thats good info...didn't realize that. And I agree if it is true LT-1 then hunting down an OEM intake is what to do.!

Logan176

The car is not an LT1. From what I can tell, the engine came out of a 1970 or 1972 truck, the manifold doesn't match, and the carb is from an LT1. Hell... at this point should I just install a manual choke?

Logan176

Let me just recap all of this to make sure I have it right. The manifold is not designed for a hot air choke and the carb will not play nice with an electric choke. So, the only way to install a choke with my current parts would be to purchase a manual choke. But if I want to use a hot air choke, I would have to install a new manifold.

How do I know what manifold will fit my block and my carb? This is what I have.

Engine code V0926TAX
Assembly stamp 3970010
Can't find the date stamp, but its either from '70 or '72

Holly 6239 dual feed vacuum secondary
Date code is 2834

fishslayer143

1st...you can t make that carb work with that manifold.. buy a carb with electric choke.. problem solved...2nd.. FYI ,that is not a double pumper.. its dual feed but vacuum secondary .. 3rd.. the reason fuel flew out of your carb is because the engine blew backwards.. high idle cause dieseling when you switch off... BTW, that is the correct carb for an late LT1, put it on Ebay , someone restoring an LT1 car might buy it, offset the new carb cost.... or install a manual choke

Logan176

Fishslayer,

Thank you for the info and the corrections. I changed the carb info above to match. What do you mean when you say the carb will not work with the manifold? Do you mean it won't work with a choke or that the carb will not function properly in general while paired with the current manifold?

fishslayer143

It will run fine but Choke will not operate.. less trouble to change carb to one with electric choke.,than to find and swap a manifold to match that choke.. . only 1 switched hot wire required... and you can sell that orig LT1 carb.. or use a manual choke... $10

Logan176

I appreciate all the help. Since this car is a driver and not an LT-1, there's probably no point in holding on to the carb since it still has value and someone else can make use of it to complete their restoration.

I think I'll install a manual choke for now just because I have already spent a bunch of money on new wheels, tires, and trim rings. Not to mention the need to replace the bracket on one of my headlights. Parts are easy to find for these cars, but they don't come cheap. Thanks again for all the help.

Logan176

Hey guys. I'm back with an update. I tried installing a manual choke on my carb, but the top most boss on the carb would not match up with the manual choke components offered from Holley. So I decided to just get a brand new Holley carb with an electric choke.

The carb responds great and the car is running much better. But I am having a new issue.

After the the car fires up, it takes about 2 minutes or so for the choke to fully open. During this time, the car idled around 1500 rpms. But once the choke is fully open, the rpms don't drop. I let the car run for 10 minutes and had the temp needle in the middle of the gauge, but the idle didn't drop.

I have a 600 CFM Holley Street carb. Is the idle supposed to drop on its own or am I supposed to blip the throttle for it to drop each time?

leadfoot4

You have to "blip" it. When you initially start the car, and it's "cold", the choke automatically sets the throttle up on the "fast idle cam". However, there's no force present to get the throttle off this cam, until you blip the throttle, at which point the "choke pull off" exerts the force on the cam, and rotates it out of the fast idle position.

Logan176

Thank you