Oil Gauge not working - 1978 Corvette
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Oil Gauge not working - 1978 Corvette
Next issue...ugh
Engine and transmission recently rebuilt. Oil gauge is not working - keeps pegging out all the way to the right. How do I know if it's the circuit board or what? I need the least expensive fix - even it means an external gauge mounted until my Vette Fund fills up again. Any suggestions??
Engine and transmission recently rebuilt. Oil gauge is not working - keeps pegging out all the way to the right. How do I know if it's the circuit board or what? I need the least expensive fix - even it means an external gauge mounted until my Vette Fund fills up again. Any suggestions??
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Kim Moulton Miller (05-24-2016)
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The oil pressure gauge is a twin to the fuel gauge with the only difference being the dampening fluid inside the gauge and the markings on the face. Both work on a scale of 0 - 90 ohms with 0 being 0 and 90 ohms being full (or in the case of an oil gauge 80lbs).
So don't buy a sender just yet.. lets test and see what is wrong.
For a oil pressure gauge to peg all the way to the right (just above the top of the right hand rivet) is an indication that the ohms wire is either off the sender, broke between the sender and the dash unit, finger on the pcb could be loose from the board.
So.. Go to the sending unit.. pull the ohms wire off the unit and with the key on, ground the ohms wire to the engine. When you do this the dash unit should go to 0. If it does you've verified the dash unit is working and that all the wiring is 100 percent okay.
Next, with the key still on let the ohms wire lay without touching anything, the dash unit should go back too pegged (just above the right hand face rivet) If it does then replace the sender and you'll be set.
If it doesn't, post back..
Willcox
Assume this is not a fuel gage.. Like I said they both work exactly the same so substitute oil for fuel and 80 for full.. In almost every case a non working gauge will tell you what the issue is just by reading the face.
So don't buy a sender just yet.. lets test and see what is wrong.
For a oil pressure gauge to peg all the way to the right (just above the top of the right hand rivet) is an indication that the ohms wire is either off the sender, broke between the sender and the dash unit, finger on the pcb could be loose from the board.
So.. Go to the sending unit.. pull the ohms wire off the unit and with the key on, ground the ohms wire to the engine. When you do this the dash unit should go to 0. If it does you've verified the dash unit is working and that all the wiring is 100 percent okay.
Next, with the key still on let the ohms wire lay without touching anything, the dash unit should go back too pegged (just above the right hand face rivet) If it does then replace the sender and you'll be set.
If it doesn't, post back..
Willcox
Assume this is not a fuel gage.. Like I said they both work exactly the same so substitute oil for fuel and 80 for full.. In almost every case a non working gauge will tell you what the issue is just by reading the face.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 05-23-2016 at 10:22 PM.
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Kim Moulton Miller (05-24-2016)
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Very Nice.. glad you figured it out.
-Willcox
-Willcox
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Kim Moulton Miller (05-27-2016)
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
First question is did you have the key on when you did this?
If yes then I'd probably pull the center cluster out of the car and inspect the printed circuit board for the small gauge bezel.
I'd also test continuity from the PCB terminal to the sender terminal in the engine compartment. If you test for continuity and you have it.... the gauge or the pcb is the issue. . . If you don't then you have a break in the ohms wire between the sender and the dash unit.
Pegged all the way to the right means you have power and ground and no ohm's input.. So either the wire is broken or there is an issue with the printed circuit board.
Willcox
If yes then I'd probably pull the center cluster out of the car and inspect the printed circuit board for the small gauge bezel.
I'd also test continuity from the PCB terminal to the sender terminal in the engine compartment. If you test for continuity and you have it.... the gauge or the pcb is the issue. . . If you don't then you have a break in the ohms wire between the sender and the dash unit.
Pegged all the way to the right means you have power and ground and no ohm's input.. So either the wire is broken or there is an issue with the printed circuit board.
Willcox
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First question is did you have the key on when you did this?
If yes then I'd probably pull the center cluster out of the car and inspect the printed circuit board for the small gauge bezel.
I'd also test continuity from the PCB terminal to the sender terminal in the engine compartment. If you test for continuity and you have it.... the gauge or the pcb is the issue. . . If you don't then you have a break in the ohms wire between the sender and the dash unit.
Pegged all the way to the right means you have power and ground and no ohm's input.. So either the wire is broken or there is an issue with the printed circuit board.
Willcox
If yes then I'd probably pull the center cluster out of the car and inspect the printed circuit board for the small gauge bezel.
I'd also test continuity from the PCB terminal to the sender terminal in the engine compartment. If you test for continuity and you have it.... the gauge or the pcb is the issue. . . If you don't then you have a break in the ohms wire between the sender and the dash unit.
Pegged all the way to the right means you have power and ground and no ohm's input.. So either the wire is broken or there is an issue with the printed circuit board.
Willcox
DB