jhudec

I know I read about some of this in other posts, but right now I cannot find them.
I am putting the car back together from a frame off. Unfortunately, I did not take everything apart and it all worked before.
So..........
I am working on getting ready to connect the starter to just turn the engine over. The wiring harnesses have not been removed, but most things like blower, switches etc are not connected. I am looking at page 293 of the AIM at the starter wires. Ignition is off and no battery connected, also the starter wires are not connected.
I have continuity on the 12 ga purple wire from starter to the wiring harness junction.
I have continuity to ground on the starter ground wire.
I have continuity from the 12 ga red wire where it goes eventually to a red 10 ga wire at the horn relay.

Where I am confused is I have no continuity from the 20 ga red wire to the positive coil connection. I do have continuity from the positive coil connector to the 12 ga red starter wire. This makes no sense to me.
If I understand this right, when I try to start the car, I should get 12v at the 12 ga purple wire that energizes the starter solenoid (S) which in turns supplies 12 volts to the (R) terminal up through the 20 ga red wire to the coil, right?

Please help. I do not want to connect anything at the starter until I know I have it right.
Thanks,
Joe

69Vett

w key on you should have 12v thru the resistance wire (R), should measure around 10 volts at +coil.

during starter cranking you should have full 12v at S(start) going thru bypass wire,
to the +coil supplying full 12volts during cranking only.

once key/starter is released (S) will open up from the starter, however you will continue to see run voltage on that wire going to the starter, because it is connected to the common +coil. (R) voltage should drop back down to run voltage thru the resistance wire, to the coil, after the key is released into the run position.

a very common mistake, is connecting the small black wire with large ring lug to the starter.
Do Not do that, small black wire with large lug is Gnd for heater blower and wipers,
it should go to the bell housing bolt for Gnd.

7T1vette

Exactly right. The "engine start" position on the ignition switch sends power to the starter SOLENOID...which then sends 12vdc power to the starter AND to the ignition coil. Then, when the ignition switch is released to "Run" mode, the ignition switch sends 12vdc power THROUGH THE RESISTANCE WIRE to the coil to continue the operation of the engine. FULL 12vdc (without current restriction) to the coil during engine start; 12vdc (WITH current restriction) during normal engine operation.

As far as hooking the starter/starter-solenoid wires up properly, it might be best to ask Alan71 to show photos of that setup on his car. A picture is [often] better than 1000 words. And the wiring on his '71 car is essentially the same as what your '69 should have.

jhudec

Thanks for the confirmation on the operation. Also, I have seen many of Alan's photos and even his starter pic's. I believe I understand which wires go where, but I still do not understand how I cannot have continuity from the + coil conn down to the (R) starter terminal, unless there is a break in the wire. Also, how can I have continuity from the 12 ga RED starter wire to the + coil conn? Unless sometime in the last 40 years someone just ran full 12vdc to the coil all the time?
Thoughts,
Joe

jhudec

OK, progress. I found the wire from the + coil connection to the start (R) had a break in it. I fixed that and now I have continuity from the + coil conn to the (R) starter connection. When I check from the 12 ga RED positive conn at the starter I can measure resistance through to the + coil conn. I took this measurement with the key in the off position. I would think I should have a totally open circuit with the key off?
Correct?
The resistance wire goes to the harness connector labelled 20 W-R/B on page 293. I cannot follow that wire onto page 294. Can anyone tell me where it goes once inside the car so I can follow it and make sure it is not shorted.
Joe

7T1vette

In general, you can't make continuity checks on wires that are still connected. You must have at least one end of the wire free, so that your continuity check includes ONLY the section of wire in question.

For the resistance wire, remove it from the coil terminal, then measure resistance on the lowest ohms scale available between the removed end of that wire and where it feeds back into the bulkhead fitting on the firewall. It should read between 1.0 and 2.0 ohms, if it is the resistance wire which came from the factory. If it has been changed to standard wire, it will read nearly zero ohms.

69Vett

the resistance wire is also covered in a cloth type insulator, vs. regular wire.
on it, it actual has small text that says DO NOT CUT !

the resistance wire goes into the fuse block, at that junction it turns into normal red wire with 12volts at ignition on position.

jhudec

OK, This is as far as I will get with this for a couple of weeks. I fixed the (R) wire to the starter from the + coil conn. I rechecked everything, hooked up the starter wires, battery and I was able to crank it over a few times and I have 12 volts at +coil conn during cranking. Engine was rebuilt, but distributor is out.
Next I am working on the brakes, then going to get everything in the engine bay, fuel tank etc ready so I can fire it up.
I will let everyone know...........
Joe