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I have hooker side pipes on my car and were the side pipe goes over the header I have exhaust leak on both sides. Has any used a exhaust sealer? If so what type? Thanks
Assuming your side tubes have the "split clamp" on them, I'll assume that you've tightened it. I had a set of these pipes on a Firebird, back in the late 70s, and they NEVER were "leak free". I suppose I could have "cranked the crap" out of that clamping bolt, and closed it up some more, but I lived with the leakage, since I had the black painted headers, and needed to take them off a couple of times, for refinishing.
I also have side pipes/headers in polished stainless. Hooker copies. The clamp had to be real tight for them not to leak. Before I got them tight enough to not leak I found that deisel trunk parts supplies have a polished stainless band clamp. I considered using them. My type of clamp has the slit in the side pile with 2 lugs for the bolt. The bolt slides through the top lug and threads into the lower. I had to get them so tight that I was afraid the lugs would break off or strip out. To install the band type clamps you have to remove the 2 lugs on each pipe so the band can slide on. The band is centered over the pipe seam and has 2 bolts to tighten. I have seen them on side pipes and they look good. I learned of these clamps talking to Classic Pipes when I bought my chambered inserts.
Added info: when I installed the inserts I wrapped them in a fiberglass blanket and wrapped them again with header tape. That make the side pipes much cooler at the door where your leg is getting out. I used temp gun to see and at the door center area of the pile it's normally 75*. That's about 50% cooler than with out the blanket and tape.
Make sure you have the side tubes "square" with the collectors. You may have to do a little bit of adjusting where they attach to the frame so that they sit over the header end straight and not at an angle. That way when you tighten the clamp bolt, it should seal well. I don't use a sealer on mine but instead use hi-temp antiseize so I can remove the tubes later if I want.
Added info: when I installed the inserts I wrapped them in a fiberglass blanket and wrapped them again with header tape. That make the side pipes much cooler at the door where your leg is getting out. I used temp gun to see and at the door center area of the pile it's normally 75*. That's about 50% cooler than with out the blanket and tape.
Quiter than open without inserts but still loud. The offer others the will tone it down.
Let me clarify - did you run the inserts first without wrapping, and then wrap them: if so, was there a sound difference?
I have the hooker max-flows and was considering wrapping them to reduce external temperatures, but I do not want it to reduce the sound. I understand the insert is sealed on the exterior and wrapping technically should not effect its sound dampening, but am curious if the header wrap DOES make an effect on the sound by reducing any sort of echoing/resonance in the otherwise open space between the insert and pipe.
Let me clarify - did you run the inserts first without wrapping, and then wrap them: if so, was there a sound difference?
I have the hooker max-flows and was considering wrapping them to reduce external temperatures, but I do not want it to reduce the sound. I understand the insert is sealed on the exterior and wrapping technically should not effect its sound dampening, but am curious if the header wrap DOES make an effect on the sound by reducing any sort of echoing/resonance in the otherwise open space between the insert and pipe.
Got ya....no the wrap did not change the sound. Very effective on heat. My inserts body has a slightly smaller diameter than the end cones making room for the blanket and tap and allowing the insert to slid in easy.
Got ya....no the wrap did not change the sound. Very effective on heat. My inserts body has a slightly smaller diameter than the end cones making room for the blanket and tap and allowing the insert to slid in easy.
Good to hear. I was probably going to use the DEI header wrap with some stainless steel zip ties to keep it in place.
Good to hear. I was probably going to use the DEI header wrap with some stainless steel zip ties to keep it in place.
I also used fiberglass heat blanket with the tape over it. Not sure of how the heat will be blocked with just tape. Secured the ends with stainless ties
I also used fiberglass heat blanket with the tape over it. Not sure of how the heat will be blocked with just tape. Secured the ends with stainless ties
Do you have a link to the type of product you used?
Do you have a link to the type of product you used?
I did a search on eBay and purchased it from there. Don't recall the vender. I looked in my purchase history and it was more than 6 moths back so no photo of the product.
I did a search on eBay and purchased it from there. Don't recall the vender. I looked in my purchase history and it was more than 6 moths back so no photo of the product.
Ok. So did you literally use a fiberglass blanket, as in the type used for welding? I just wasn't clear what type of product you were using when referred to as "fiberglass blanket". Thanks.
Ok. So did you literally use a fiberglass blanket, as in the type used for welding? I just wasn't clear what type of product you were using when referred to as "fiberglass blanket". Thanks.
It looked and felt similar to white fiberglass matting; or more in texture like the batting material use in apholstery. It will come up on eBay. There is also a fiberglass blanket material that is weaved cloth with foil backing that would work just as well. After installing the blanket and tape I had the thought I could have just double layered the tape.