rsnyderjr2

Hi Guys - FINALLY got 'er running last night w/ new engine installed - been a LONG time in coming... I'm SO stoked right now!

And of course I thought "well, while the engine's out I might as well replace everything else too - literally - everything up front is new now - and the Bushings, Ball Joints, Tie Rods and ****? DANG man, that ended up being more difficult than the engine swap! LOL - I am SO ready to be done wrenching - and just do some DRIVING...

Anyway...
Thinking next steps should be:
Top off fluids (coolant question below)
Set initial timing
Break in period (three 10 minute periods running between 2k - 3k rpms - correct?)
Limp to town for good alignment job

SO... in topping off my fluids next - can I add some coolant directly into the block through the hole / plug I'm pointing at below? (not really feeling comfortable running "dry" until the thermostat heats up and opens, ya know? Have just filled w/ coolant at the radiator cap thus far)...



Any and all advice appreciated! (I'd hate to forget / screw something up now after getting this far)

Thanks Guys!!

Ritch

Jebbysan

One initial break in for the camshaft....20-30 minutes @ 2000-2500 rpm.......
Drop the oil and replace.....
Run the hell out of it on the expressway under load to seat the rings.....
Have fun.

Jebby

Tim Ware

No need to start the engine without coolant. Drill 2 small 1/16" holes in the thermostat to allow fluid to enter the block but not affect warm up. Many new cars are equipped this way because... new cars are just like your new engine. This was recommended by an engine builder and works great.

Shark Racer

If the thermostat isn't installed, I fill the block with diluted coolant and the radiator with diluted coolant, this usually gets the system really well packed. Bypass holes do help.

There's no reason you can't use that hole, it's just a little on the small side for filling.

rsnyderjr2

All great advice - much appreciated - thanks guys!!

Ritch

flyeri

Follow GM's instructions for initial run and to ensure rings are seated properly. You did not say which engine it is. A 1/16" hole in the flange of the thermostat is a good idea, especially since you do not have a bypass hose.

bluedawg

I agree with jebby except I break in for 30 straight minutes, don't want to run the engine at all until you fire it up to break it in, not at all so make sure everything is good to go prior to firing it up, coolant, oil, break in oil and timing, you can run the timing light to ball park it while breaking it in, but once it's started it should never drop below 2000 rpm for the first 30 min of its life. Oh and be certain the short bolt is back in the hole that the long bolt goes in to hold the fuel pump push rod in place, I've always taken the long bolt out, but forgot to put the short one back in and man does that make a mess, 30 mins of spitting oil into the fan, shitty deal when your 16 and using your uncles shop. You only do that once.

Street Rat

Congratulations on getting her running.

Now the fun begins.

rsnyderjr2

Yea Buddy - through with the break-in protocols and now getting everything DIALED IN - woohoo!

Thanks Guys!

Ritch

MN80Vette

I didn't see which engine or heads you have. However, I noticed you don't have center bolt valve covers, so you probably don't have Vortec heads. I have a GM Performance 350 HO, and needed to add a coolant bypass. The "Water Pump" section of the manual says: Check the manual for your engine to be sure.

rsnyderjr2

Thanks MN80! And yea... I'm pretty sure the heads aren't Vortec... I ended up routing that intake manifold boss to Heater Hose > Heater Core > Water Pump...

Running GREAT! Nice and cool too (I run 180 Thermostats in ALL my vehicles now - I'm sold on 'em!) - just "fine tuning" everyting now... Happy Camper Here.

Ritch

cv67

Sounds good so far
Putting the holes in the Tstats really helps, keeps hot pockets of air forming too. Put 4 of them in mine

rsnyderjr2

Yep - it's standard procedure for me now too!

Ritch