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Old 07-24-2017, 11:50 AM   #61
Kacyc3
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Originally Posted by The13Bats View Post
A few things to consider,

Is the temp gauge correct, ive never been a big believer that old c3 factory gauges were always spot on, is it too hot or just hotter?

My 66 custom was very cold blooded, 180 stat stock radiator, i could almost always drive the 10 miles to my club or home at the end of the night and it never got hot enough to kick on the electric fan, the fan never came on while moving,

In general if a car stays cool at idle and creeps up at speed if all other things, like timing, seals, spoilers etc are good it might just be too small of a radiator for the job,
More rpm means more power and more heat to cool than at idle,

On c3s as far as i know there are two stock core sizes, height and width but the way they are made how many rows of tubes, how many fins per sq inch etc that what makes the difference,

I do not know how many radiators are made for example my custom made dewitts us super overkill and would likely cool any street driven car tossed at it, people on this forum report cooling tall hp with other brands too.

Perhaps mr dewitt will give a run down on the specs so i dont post misinformation.
Stock gauges are sitting on a shelf along with the sending units, i have installed Digital dash and the sending unit is next to the t stat and running done the interstate it almost matches what the ecm is seeing from the sending unit in the head. So either both are wrong or right.

Cruising down the interstate with out AC I think it should be closer to 180 seeing as how it has a 160 t stat. Really tired of trying to make this cool better, maybe Dewitts is the only way to cool this engine like i want.
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Old 07-27-2017, 12:03 AM   #62
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Stock gauges are sitting on a shelf along with the sending units, i have installed Digital dash and the sending unit is next to the t stat and running done the interstate it almost matches what the ecm is seeing from the sending unit in the head. So either both are wrong or right.

Cruising down the interstate with out AC I think it should be closer to 180 seeing as how it has a 160 t stat. Really tired of trying to make this cool better, maybe Dewitts is the only way to cool this engine like i want.
Dewitts is a work of art,
i would hope it or any larger aftermarket aluminum radiator , becool, champion, etc would get you where you desire, if in fact this is a case of too little radiator, but i would be very sure it is just that before buying a radiator
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Old 07-29-2017, 12:23 AM   #63
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When I was looking for a radiator for my LS swap (LS3 525 HP Crate engine) I talked to 3 different Makers, My concerns was on the fan they supplied. After looking at All of them I decided to get a rad with out any fans and build my own shroud that covered all of the core and had some space between the fans and the core. I also did not want to use the thru core mounting.
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Old 08-10-2017, 02:01 AM   #64
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I see a lot of mistakes regarding this "missing tank". That is because many people see a car the same year as theirs and it has the tank, therefore your tank must be missing, right?
No. Only base C3 small block (no AC, no Auto, and no special engine) and BB cars have the factory aluminum surge tank. If your sb car has anyone of these options, then you would not have the pressurized surge tank. The filler neck with cap was on the radiator and there is no need for one.
If you really want to use a catch can, you could just order a plastic one from a 73 or later. I don't see why you would need it but it would work. Normally you would fill the radiator about 3" low and this room allows for fluid expansion when it heats up. If you overfill the radiator it will push this extra fluid out when it expands. Often people will confuse this with boiling out or puking. Then they re-fill the system when it cools down because they feel they need to and this madness continues over and over.
I just got a 68 Vette Convert with 327/350 HT motor, number matching no ac no ps no power brakes and it has a pressurized tank on it. The reason for overflow tanks and using the proper cap (non-lever style) is so you dont have air in the system that leads to corrosion/cavitation. This is the reason why all new cars are built this way to keep air out of the system. As the car heats up and displaces the expanded coolant into the tank. As the car cools down the system creates a vacuum which draws the fluid from reservoir tank back into the radiator thus never having air trapped in the system. So reservoir systems are a good thing.
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:06 PM   #65
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I had a DeWitt 2 core radiator for the last 10 years. It never cooled either one of my motors small block and big block in the 180 to 190 range which is what I was hoping for. I'm hoping for different results with a Champion radiator.
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:11 PM   #66
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I'm also running a champion Rad, I do not have the body back on the frame yet but have run it to operating temperature and run it for over 30 min. I'm running dual spal fans controlled by the ECM and dual relays. Engine LS3 525 HP Crate motor.

Tim
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Old 08-18-2017, 02:20 AM   #67
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I had a DeWitt 2 core radiator for the last 10 years. It never cooled either one of my motors small block and big block in the 180 to 190 range which is what I was hoping for. I'm hoping for different results with a Champion radiator.
In my case i dont like going over 200,
The engine has a goldielocks zone where it runs best and each engine can vary, most of mine seem happy 190 to 200

If you grab a 2 row basic apples to apples champion and everything else stays as is you might not see any difference in cooling over your dewitts

Then if you go bigger, more and or larger tubes it might outcool what you have but not fair to blame the brand if the comparison isnt the same,

Also there has to be good air flow both at idle and moving for any radiator to do its job,

feedback on this forum alone proves the champion is a huge bang for the buck.
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Old 08-19-2017, 09:43 PM   #68
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In my case i dont like going over 200,
The engine has a goldielocks zone where it runs best and each engine can vary, most of mine seem happy 190 to 200

If you grab a 2 row basic apples to apples champion and everything else stays as is you might not see any difference in cooling over your dewitts

Then if you go bigger, more and or larger tubes it might outcool what you have but not fair to blame the brand if the comparison isnt the same,

Also there has to be good air flow both at idle and moving for any radiator to do its job,

feedback on this forum alone proves the champion is a huge bang for the buck.
Bats

Do you think a aluminum 2 core should cool a 355 mild cam motor to the 180 degree mark? Or will I need a 3 core. The last radiator that cooled to 180 was a bone stock Harrison stock unit but I never went back to stock radiator because aluminum was the new thing. Starting to double think the aluminum radiators.
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Old 08-19-2017, 09:53 PM   #69
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There are so many variables comparing them tube size fin count things like that.i have a champion it's not the highest horsepower version but it does a great job and has for a few years now. I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer. They told me mine was good to around 600 h.p.
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Old 08-20-2017, 07:01 AM   #70
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Corvette400hp,

7t9l82 is right,

i read and read researched and then some,

Easy questions are not always easy answers, 3, 1 inch tubes will cool better than 2 1.5 inch tubes, or will they, its the same tube surface area, but thermo dynamics kick in, spacing, fin count etc,

then whichever company is trying to sell you their product will show the tests to prove they are correct, theirs is best,

Ours will cool 800hp but they dont say in what conditions,

If i was buying a champion i would buy the one with the biggest surface area,
Thats what i did with dewitts, for me more is better, and yes, if i did it over i would have bought a cheaper radiator,
Or even taken a long look at brass 4 core stock,

you bring up a great subject,
Stock brass copper stock radiators,

B/c disapates heat better than aluminum, the draw to aluminum isnt better cooling its for less weight and looks,
A 4 core b/c will in most every case cool better than its aluminum counterpart,
Its just heavier and i honestly havent priced b/c in a while but imagine they arent cheap,

Will that champion cool your car?
According to feedback on this forum with correct fans, yes, it will cool it,
will it keep it at 180, thats pretty low, i just do not want to guess.
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Old 08-20-2017, 08:55 AM   #71
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I put an aluminum radiator in my 78 L82 in 2015 when the brass/copper couldn't be rebuilt.

It has a 160 degree T-Stat and stays in the 160-180 range even with the AC on in Texas heat.

I don't remember the brand but it was about $200 and it fit the stock location ok.

I also bought a cap that has the anode on it.
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Old 09-10-2017, 12:30 AM   #72
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I have a Dewitts radiator in my modified 69 corvette.
I think It was a direct fit module kit I bought in 2005. This is a high Quality radiator but My engine runs hot 200 ish. sometimes up to 220deg. 185 deg thermostat.
I think its to small for the horse power. Its a 496 stroker with a Blower Shop roots supercharger and fuel injection.
Can Mr Dewitts recommend a larger radiator, maybe bigger cores or more cores to cool better.
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Old 09-15-2017, 12:48 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOM B1 View Post
I have a Dewitts radiator in my modified 69 corvette.
I think It was a direct fit module kit I bought in 2005. This is a high Quality radiator but My engine runs hot 200 ish. sometimes up to 220deg. 185 deg thermostat.
I think its to small for the horse power. Its a 496 stroker with a Blower Shop roots supercharger and fuel injection.
Can Mr Dewitts recommend a larger radiator, maybe bigger cores or more cores to cool better.
Call John D 517-548-0600 before replacing anything. He needs to review your application and ask a bunch of questions first.
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:25 PM   #74
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With regard to radiators I have to say I am totally neutral as we imported our car with a De-Witt's already installed. I had no idea that there was such a large variety of choice and quite frankly have not needed to look into it as it does the job. Having said that I can only share my personal view and experiences to date of the De-Witt's High Performance radiator that I have and hope it helps someone/me make decisions in the future. Living in a climate ranging from 104F to 41F, I personally have not been a supporter of thermostats so that was removed day one giving a consistent unrestricted flow. Fitment of the De-Witt's is very clean with it's twin thermatic fans tucked in there like they belong with plenty of ventilation. Fans have been set to come on around the 180F-190F which happens reasonably quickly on a warm day around town. The extreme situation we experienced was a two hour stop start on one of our major highways which had the fans running the whole time but never getting over the 180F-190F setting. Glycol coolant at 50/50 mix keeps her humming along and I have not lost a drop since the last service I did on my cooling system which has been a while now. Looking into the future I am researching the possibility of using these new synthetic cooling products that are on the market so that we may travel with more cabin comfort as we don't have Air Conditioning.
I read on many places that taking away the shroud and most important the bottom of the shroud can cause problems in cooling in warmer climate areas. Even you have electric fans the air goes into the enginecompartment under the radiator and you will get a little overpressure so the fan will not work as they should. So try put a something that stop the air coming in from under the radiator and your enginecompartment will be cooler and get a cooler ride.
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Old 09-20-2017, 06:26 AM   #75
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I read on many places that taking away the shroud and most important the bottom of the shroud can cause problems in cooling in warmer climate areas. Even you have electric fans the air goes into the enginecompartment under the radiator and you will get a little overpressure so the fan will not work as they should. So try put a something that stop the air coming in from under the radiator and your enginecompartment will be cooler and get a cooler ride.
OK!! ... that makes sense ... but as mentioned, the radiator was already installed and original parts were not with the car when I imported her. What original parts should I be trying to look for, any suggestions???
Thanks Svenska from a Danska living in Australia.
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:51 AM   #76
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OK!! ... that makes sense ... but as mentioned, the radiator was already installed and original parts were not with the car when I imported her. What original parts should I be trying to look for, any suggestions???
Thanks Svenska from a Danska living in Australia.
I think it is not that complicated to get someone make a sheet of alu and put it between radiator and the front frame it dont have any weird angles or so just a straight rectangle will do. If you look down you will see what I mean. And it will not need big bolts to stay in place just ordinary screws will do OK.
Hi from Sweden
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:00 PM   #77
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New to the forum and it's a great resource. Removed old original brass radiator (PITA) and installed a new Dewitt Black Ice aluminum. Perfect fit with zero modifications, '73 stock L-82.
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Old 10-22-2017, 11:49 PM   #78
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Put in a champion 3 row replacing original. No change in fan, stock L82 with air, never gets to 200 even with air on in traffic on a hot day. Fit ok, had work on positioning of the rad support to get it to clear the hood on drivers side.
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Old 11-11-2017, 11:16 PM   #79
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This thread was sapossed to provide a place to discuss cooling issues with moderator supervision to control redundancy and controversy. What it has turned into is a DeWitts Alternative report page. I am open to sharing my twenty years of Corvette cooling experience with anyone that has questions.
Just wondering as to the difficulty in mounting your SP460. fan kit.
I have a DeWitts Direct fit radiator w/Black ice that I have not installed yet.i have recently decided to remove my engine driven fan & change to SPAL fans. I have a 1969 L46, my other question is, do I need to upgrade my alternator due to the increased demand?
I appreciate your input, my budget should allow me to do this in the next few months. Thanks!
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Old 11-12-2017, 12:05 PM   #80
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The hardest part of this project would be removing the factory shroud, assuming you want to save it. Some guys just cut it in half and remove two pieces. If you go that route you will have the fans installed in about an hour. I would think the wiring would take more time than installing the fans.

Installation Guide

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