Temperature sending wire spliced 72 base
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Any good reason this wire is spliced? I was going to replace just the insulation. Took the insulation off and now I think I need some more green wire. I hesitate to ask but on the off chance I'll get a "believe it or not" type of reply I thought I'd throw it out there.
Last edited by BarryB72; 09-09-2016 at 07:37 PM.
#4
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Hi B,
There were different configurations of connectors on the temperature sender as time went by…. 'pin'….'spade' for example.
It could have been spliced for a new female connector.
Also, being so close to the exhaust manifold the connector may have been damaged by heat.
Although I don't see it on your lead the wire was protected with a heat resistive sheath.
Regards,
Alan
The wire with sheath leaving the harness.
There were different configurations of connectors on the temperature sender as time went by…. 'pin'….'spade' for example.
It could have been spliced for a new female connector.
Also, being so close to the exhaust manifold the connector may have been damaged by heat.
Although I don't see it on your lead the wire was protected with a heat resistive sheath.
Regards,
Alan
The wire with sheath leaving the harness.
Last edited by Alan 71; 09-10-2016 at 09:05 AM.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
The original black connector crumbled in my fingers so it was pretty well cooked. I took the new one off before I took that picture to see if the black sheath would slide off. The original sheath was brittle and torn in a few places so I just more or less tore it off in pieces.
Last edited by BarryB72; 09-09-2016 at 07:51 PM.
#6
Safety Car
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Very nicely maintained engine compartment!
Please don't use the Home Depot variety of wire, it is just wrong. You want to use GXL wire. And for but connectors, use the solid non vinyl nickle plated type connector with shrink tube wrap. The black cloth covering is available through most vendors.
Brian
Please don't use the Home Depot variety of wire, it is just wrong. You want to use GXL wire. And for but connectors, use the solid non vinyl nickle plated type connector with shrink tube wrap. The black cloth covering is available through most vendors.
Brian
#7
I had an intermittent bad signal that caused my temperature gauge to bounce all over the place. Turned out the wires inside the sheath were cracked and not making a good connection. It was necessary to splice in a new connector and my problem went away.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Is the green wire entirely covered by the sheath?
Mine was not but I dont know how much of the sheath had to be sacrificed when they spliced the wire.
The wire Wilcox sent was about 2 feet long with a 2 foot sheath so I have to make a decision where to cut.
Mine was not but I dont know how much of the sheath had to be sacrificed when they spliced the wire.
The wire Wilcox sent was about 2 feet long with a 2 foot sheath so I have to make a decision where to cut.
#10
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H B,
On my 71 the sheath starts immediately as the temperature sender wire leaves the harness and ends at the connector.
I guess the fact that the wire is then under the spark plug wire shield helps protect the connector itself from the manifold's heat.
Regards,
Alan
On my 71 the sheath starts immediately as the temperature sender wire leaves the harness and ends at the connector.
I guess the fact that the wire is then under the spark plug wire shield helps protect the connector itself from the manifold's heat.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 09-15-2016 at 08:36 AM.
#12
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Hi B,
I see various shields at that location including the one you posted.
I'm using the one in the picture I posted because that's what was on the engine originally.
Regards,
Alan
I see various shields at that location including the one you posted.
I'm using the one in the picture I posted because that's what was on the engine originally.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 09-15-2016 at 03:11 PM.