Scottd

I got bored tonight and decided to re-torque my header bolts. (They sneak loose from time to time). I put the wrench on the bolt just behind the alternator and felt that uneasy twist...torque and pop....FML. Bolt is broken in the head. So, let me explain my setup...

Im running Heddman headers with a stock alternator bracket so I had to make a spacer between header and alternator bracket. I fished around a little bit and I think the bolt is cracked flush with the head (and not deep inside) and the bolt is fairly new so its not rusted in. Im pretty sure I used a bolt that was just a little too long and it bottomed out and snapped.

Now, the million dollar question....are there any new ways to get this thing out? I was thinking by now somebody has developed some kind of sleeved weld on thingy that can be inserted into the head, spot welded and screwed out? Or maybe a reverse threaded drill bit with a centering jig? Anybody?

FAWK. I wanted to get at least one more ride out of the car before I put it away for the season!

'75

The reverse drill bit only works if the bolt is not tight by rust or being bottomed out. In that case it works the same as a regular bit, just drills out metal. If the bolt is bottomed out, then trying to use an easy out will likely not end well either. If I were doing it, I would remove the header and weld a washer to the bolt, then weld a nut to the washer, put a box end wrench on it and gently try to loosen it. If the washer and nut breaks off, weld on another set, it will eventually come out.

Scottd

The bolt is NOT rusted in and IS most likely bottomed out. I dont think there will be enough sticking above the head to weld a nut on. I was hoping that some kind of reverse drill bit and a centering tool existed. Im sure that once a drill bit grabs it, it will twist right out...but getting in there is going to suck.

vbgod1

Left hand bit set, a 90 degree drill and center punch. Punch, go slow in left hand direction. If the gods choose to smile on you today...

Example. http://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bit...drill-bit-sets

centuryoldracer

If you have a mig welder you can start welding the bolt until you have it built up enough to get vice grips on it or weld a nut on the part you have built up and use a socket.
I don't even bother with drilling, or easy outs etc. I just go strait for the welder, and get them out every time.

resdoggie

Use an EZ out. Drill a small hole in the bolt and increase in size with larger drill bits until the EZ out tool will screw in. Then extract.

Btw, how much torque are you applying to those header bolts to shear the head off?

Scottd

Im a little embarrassed to admit this....as explained earlier, I had to make a spacer to fit the alternator bracket to the head. I didn't have the proper length bolt around so I filed one down. It must have bottomed against the hole and I just kept twisting. To make matters worse, there was no 'grading' marks on the bolt head, so it was probably sub standard to begin with.

My biggest worry is actually getting in there to work. Not much room at all, and I doubt I can even get a center punch in there.

resdoggie

Yes, it's not going to be easy due to space limitations so it may be quicker to just pull the head and get 'er done.

Rescue Rogers

I would pull the head, set with the broken bolt facing up. If its an ungraded bolt I would center punch it and drill it out as much as possible. Get an impact wrench that uses a hammer. Try using the philips head driver in the hole first and give it some good wacks.

Then try an easy out. Biggest one that will fit

If that breaks, find a grade 8 bolt that will fit in the hole if the broken easy out wont let you, use a nut that wil fit on the bolt stub, fill weld the hole, then weld a bolt on top to torque it out. I would put alot of penetrating oil in there as well.

Take pics

Dont weld first because drilling a weld is hard

gungatim

Not a lot of new ideas out there, but here's a list. the last 2 are probably the newest methods within the last 10 years or so but less common.

left hand drill bit

ez out (they do make sleeve/bushings with drill bits and ez outs in a kit for this).

mig weld on a nut (my favorite and most successful way)

tap with hammer and small chisel to turn.

cut slot with hacksaw and use screwdriver

use a tool called a "miniductor" which is a small portable (and expensive) inductive heating tool that will heat the bolt instead of using a torch.

use cheap ebay dental drill with small bits to carve out the old bolt and pick set to pick out the threads when done.

Scottd

All are great ideas for when the bolt is broken above surface level, which, lets face it...never happens to me.

Ill be pulling the Alternator and header off this weekend. Lets hope I can get enough room in there to work.

centuryoldracer

Before you pull the head why not take it to a professional mechanic first and get a estimate. I guarantee I could do it for 200. or less, and that would be a heck of a lot easier and cheaper than removing the head.

gkull

Over the years I've worked even grade 8 snapped off bolts. The center punch, quality drill bits and easy out is the answer.

Then do the smart thing and use a ARP exhaust header stud kit.

redvetracr

you want new technology? find someone with an EDM machine

resdoggie

How expensive is it to remove a head by himself? It only costs the price of a few gaskets and a tube of rtv.

OMF

I've always had better luck with these kind of EZ-outs than the spiral screw in kind.
This is also the kind of tool you don't want to cheap out on.....

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/HRMAAO...DH/s-l1600.jpg

Scottd

Removing the head will be my LAST resort, absolute last ditch, I cant get anything to work option. Hell, I may pull the engine out of the car to get at the bolt before I rip the head off.

As far as taking it to a shop for an estimate? There is only 1 or 2 shops in the greater Syracuse area that will touch old cars, and only 1 of them has any decent experience. Besides, this isnt a technically complicated job, its just going to be laborious.

Im still looking at the sheared bolt and I think the remnant is going to be flush with the head or just below. Im praying I can knock it loose with a hammer and chisel. After that I will explore drilling it, but Illl need to invest in a right angle drill and some way to make sure I stay perpendicular to the screw. Its all going to come down to how much room I have in the engine bay. I may even unbolt the drivers side motor mount to get it up an extra inch or two.

gungatim

you want a bushing to fit in the manifold to use the drill bit in to keep it centered.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4651-Scre.../dp/B00061SMA8

but most people make their own if you you have access to a lathe...

Rescue Rogers

I think I'll get a set for future problems. Thanks!!

Danish Shark

This is the way to do it. The heat from the welding also helps loosening the bolt.
Once you have them all out replace them with studs.

/Karsten