Time For Trailing Arm Bushes???
10-06-2016, 05:02 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the comments and info chaps! 
All very interesting and, perhaps a little daunting! I'm beginning to wonder if this is a job we're up to! Some more reading and looking at You Tube required I think!
All very interesting and, perhaps a little daunting! I'm beginning to wonder if this is a job we're up to! Some more reading and looking at You Tube required I think!
10-06-2016, 05:52 PM
#22
Race Director
Along that line.....
I believe that when I replaced the TABs on my wife's former '79 C-3, I used a somewhat large diameter drill, to cut the "flared end" of the sleeve. Same result, different route to get there.
Also, thinking back, when you use rubber bushings, the factory shop manual calls out a specific amount of "crush" to be applied to the bushings, before flaring the sleeve. The poly bushings don't call this out, as obviously, they won't crush.....
I believe that when I replaced the TABs on my wife's former '79 C-3, I used a somewhat large diameter drill, to cut the "flared end" of the sleeve. Same result, different route to get there.
Also, thinking back, when you use rubber bushings, the factory shop manual calls out a specific amount of "crush" to be applied to the bushings, before flaring the sleeve. The poly bushings don't call this out, as obviously, they won't crush.....
DUB
10-06-2016, 05:58 PM
#23
Race Director
I knew pressing them out was not a method. Potential mass destruction to the end of the TA would occur. Even though.... I was hoping that someone showed it on YouTube....I was dying to see it in a video. because I have no problem in admitting when I am completely incorrect.
Last time I checked..the last time I was able to walk on water was in Ohio when Lake Erie froze at the shoreline.
DUB
10-07-2016, 08:38 AM
#24
Team Owner
Now that you mention it, yeah, you're right.....as I mentioned initially, the last time I did this job, was a little over 20 years ago, so I might have forgotten a detail or two....but you jogged my memory, and I do remember those shims.
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DUB (10-07-2016)
10-07-2016, 06:15 PM
#25
Race Director
Obviously... I just put the two parts back together for the photo.
Not that this matters....but these photos are of a trailing arm bushing inner sleeve parts that I had cut out of a trailing arm with my Porta band as I have mentioned.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 10-07-2016 at 06:18 PM.
12-03-2016, 02:08 AM
#26
Racer
Starting this procedure in Jan. I am thinking a sawz-all would work like the bandsaw? Just need to keep it from jumping out onto the arm.
I thought for sure I saw a well documented pictorial on this in this forum at one time
I thought for sure I saw a well documented pictorial on this in this forum at one time
12-03-2016, 06:34 AM
#27
12-03-2016, 06:48 AM
#28
I have had poly bushings all over the car for years. They work well where compliance is not an issue.
Rotary motion works well. Use silicone grease, and they work:
A arms. Use locktite, or the nuts back out.
Sway bar bushings. Once again grease them with silicone.
On top of the diffy. Works fine
T/As, they bind here as well as radius rods. As Dub pointed out, anything with xyz movement, they bind. I have VB and P smart struts with poly. Every time I am under the car, one side has a jamb nut loose. The lack of compliance causes the rod end to loosen, and the rod end swivels in and out of the rod. NOT good. These are going away this winter.
If I do the T/As again, they will go away as well.
Body mounts I can see advantages, but my rubber is still good. However, I would not hesitate to use them there.
Rotary motion works well. Use silicone grease, and they work:
A arms. Use locktite, or the nuts back out.
Sway bar bushings. Once again grease them with silicone.
On top of the diffy. Works fine
T/As, they bind here as well as radius rods. As Dub pointed out, anything with xyz movement, they bind. I have VB and P smart struts with poly. Every time I am under the car, one side has a jamb nut loose. The lack of compliance causes the rod end to loosen, and the rod end swivels in and out of the rod. NOT good. These are going away this winter.
If I do the T/As again, they will go away as well.
Body mounts I can see advantages, but my rubber is still good. However, I would not hesitate to use them there.
12-03-2016, 07:11 AM
#29
Racer
A sawzall with long blades is the only thing I could use to cut thru the SHIMS and the BOLT.....completely rusted mess.....I have the big advantage of having a 22' long x 3-1/2' wide x 6' deep cemented in PIT to work in!!
I didn't even try to disassemble the TA's...sent 'em to Gary at vtech
Putting everything back together was FUN compared to takin' it all out...what a DREAM to drive after doing all that (along w/ all other rear end & front end component rebuild) along w/ a total alignment....a NEW car drive!!
I didn't even try to disassemble the TA's...sent 'em to Gary at vtech
Putting everything back together was FUN compared to takin' it all out...what a DREAM to drive after doing all that (along w/ all other rear end & front end component rebuild) along w/ a total alignment....a NEW car drive!!
12-03-2016, 11:34 AM
#31
12-03-2016, 04:43 PM
#32
Race Director
When I am using my Porta-band....the trailing arm is out of the car (obviously).
I am sure your sawzall will work IF you are trying to cut out the trailing arm bushings from the trailing arm itself. It just may take longer or eat up a blade or two.
I have both tools...a Sawzall and a Portaband. And I will grab the Porta band every time when I have to cut out trailing arm bushings. It is much faster.
As you know...a Sawzall..the blade just goes back and forth...thus it can get HOT. A Portaband....the blade is much longer and it turns...so it can stay cooler and cut better, faster, longer. Because parts of this trailing arm bushing are REALLY HARD steel.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 12-04-2016 at 07:23 PM.
12-04-2016, 07:20 PM
#33
Melting Slicks
when I went to change out the bushings, I just went ahead and did everthing to the rear: new spring, pumpkin gone thru with new lutch pack, bearings etc., trailing arms sent off and completely rebuilt with new SS emergency brakes, new rotors that were checked for run-out etc., everthing painted, new shocks, body cleaned and painted in this are. It was done during the winter and gives me peace of mind knowing that everything is good in this are. then did the same to the front.AND yes the saws-all worked, just buy the best and longest blades you can find!!!
Last edited by lvmyvt76; 12-04-2016 at 07:21 PM.