r16678

Question is on engine rebuild.
1. If one was to rebuild themselves what is the best book with step by step to follow
2. In the Phoenix AZ area what is the best place to take an engine for a rebuild. Have seen Phoenix Engines and Engine House, but I see both have had their fair share of negative reviews.
http://phoenixengine.com/
http://www.enginehouse.com/
3. My engine has near 100K miles on it, is a new GM crate engine the better choice.

Basically looking for wisdom form the forum, any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,

gungatim

my 2 cents:

If you want to learn, and need a book to rebuild an engine, I would not start with a corvette. rebuild a lawnmower, motorcycle, or a 4 cyl car to flip first. there is a lot to learn, and lots of mistakes to be made. there will be a lot of machine work to have done at a shop regardless, so unless you already have the tools, the space, and the experience, there is very little to be gained by rebuilding it yourself, especially the first time.

I think a crate motor is the best choice, much more quality control, warranty, etc.

but if you just want to learn, and be able to drive something you built yourself, there are dozens of how-to books on the SBC out there. they are so common, I couldn't even recommend one. I think I built my first SBC in high school just using a Chilton's manual and reading hot rod magazine articles...

just my opine...

saunderscx

I'm new to the forum, but in a similar situation in that I'm looking at upgrading a bone stock 72 base 350 SB. For several weeks I've been reading posts and info on various web pages.

While it's super awesome to say "I built & installed that engine", there's a heck of a lot of know-how that goes into engine assembly. I'd estimate that most of the the folks that 'built it' themselves already have multiple engine builds under their belt along with a laundry list of specialty tools in the garage.

I think everyone ultimately wants grease under their nails and to have some tangible work into their projects (after all this is a hobby for most) so perhaps one thing you may consider is paying an engine shop to build your short block then do the top end yourself. You'd have the option of re-using your heads/intake/carb/system/etc if you want to keep it stock or upgrading the top end which would no question give you a significant performance boost.

The other obvious option is to go with a crate engine...short, long, or turn key. I'm leaning toward a long block. I've got an original numbers matching 350 I'd prefer to yank/mothball until the car is sold....more likely sold by my wife after I'm dead as I'm not selling as long as I can drive. haha

One feather in the hat with the crate approach is a 1-2 year warranty. If you go with a crate engine read the fine print. As for me I'm looking hard at a costly GM PN 19332527 (383 stroker) that carries a 2 year warranty. The catalog says that an HEI distributor with a melonized gear is a MUST (GM PN 93440806). And to get the rated base HP to use the 'as tested' holley 770 CFM. The GM crate short or long block comes with a balanced flex plate but if you have a manual there's extra cost for a balanced flywheel.

Please do post your decision once you've sorted it out. It may help guide me and others. All the best & good luck.

jb78L-82

I tackled this issue in 2014 with my OEM L-82. I did build it myself BUT I had all the machine work and bottom end assembled by a highly respected builder in my area. I wanted to keep as much of the original L-82 as possible so the builder bored the block .030, new forged JE Racing pistons and rings (9:1), reconditioned the OEM forged L-82 rods, reconditioned the OEM forged crank, New Harmonic balancer, etc. He assembled the bottom end and delivered the assembled short block to my house. I installed the roller cam, AFR aluminum heads, reused the OEM ported/cleaned up L-82 intake, and everything else. I reinstalled the built motor, put on a new clutch kit, new motor mounts etc. All in it cost me for everything about $5,800-6,000 including parts like the clutch kit, motor mounts, etc. No I did not totally rebuild it myself but it sure was gratifying and runs like a champ with lots more power. I would do it again in a NY minute......

saunderscx

Nice Job man. I like the idea on keeping things looking original but adding some real zip to the HP rating

sullyman56

I've used Automotive Machine in Scottsdale. No complaints and they do good work. Might be a pretty good ride for you from Goodyear though.

lvmyvt76

no experience rebuilding engines??? Buy a crate, and keep the old motor. When you have gained experience, rebuild the original motor. or have someone, that you will find, do it.:craz y:

cooper9811

I did this not long after I purchased my first C3. I had tinkered since I was a teenager, but had never really done much more under the hood that change water pumps, carbs, etc. All simple bolt-on stuff.

I decided that I needed to lean more so (after a lot of research and some searching)purchased a 4-bolt main off of craigslist and used this book as a guide: How to Rebuild the Small-Block Chevrolet: Step-by-Step Videobook (S-A Design Video Workbench) (S-A Design Workbench Series)

I did, however, ask a lot of questions and to make sure I gom things right, committed to test fitting, practicing and checking my work before finally calling any step complete.

Be prepared to buy or rent some specialty tools if you want to really get it right, but really not that many. Most of us have a torque wrench - and mics, feeler gauges, etc., to check measurements are important to have access to, so again, read up and research what you need before spending anything.

Take your time, read a lot, ask a lot of questions. I think everyone should try this at least once. It's very doable.

Having said all of that, it is probably cheaper overall to just buy a crate engine (plus you can get a warranty). Just a little less fun.

r16678

Thank you all for your feedback, I appreciate it very much. I checked the engine compression it is still good, 88K miles on it. I am going to try and first see if I can fire it up and see how it goes, if all else fails I will go with the crate motor. thanks again.

gungatim

if you get it running and it seems to be OK, I wouldn't do a full rebuild. Change the fibre timing chain and gear, do the valve seals on the head(they are probably age hardened by now), and any other leaks you see. if comp. is good, you could easily get another 50k out of it as long as you use a good flat tappet oil...

69Vett

If you do not want a crate engine, the most important thing is to find a very good machine shop, I would suggest have them assemble the short block, and you do the rest of the assemble. keep the block, buy new scat components crank rods, and forged pistons.
find good machine shop via talking to actual local racers.

r16678

Do you have a valve spring removal tool that you recommend

OldCarBum

I've built a few big blocks over the years for my boats. Some tools you can rent, most you'll need to purchase, but you'll be glad to have them in your tool box over the years. Purchase good quality dial indicators, micrometers, calipers and torque wrenches. Buy several books, read them start to finish first to see if you are up to the task. At the very least, disassemble the complete engine yourself from air filter to the crank bearings and get the feel of the work involved. Find a good machine shop to check and condition the block, crank, rods, heads etc. If you're up to it, reassemble it, ask a million questions.
If not, have the machine shop assemble the short block and re-assemble everything else yourself. Either way the pucker factor will be up there the first time you fire it up, but its just more rewarding when you've done all or part of it yourself. If you go with a create motor, read the fine print. Some come with reconditioned blocks, heads, cranks, rods, etc. You never know where it was assembled or the ability of the person who did so. A warranty doesn't mean a thing if you have to pull it back out, ship it back and wait to see if they stand behind the warranty. .02 cents please!

r16678

Anyone have recommendations on a timing chain set, I have seen edlebrock

gungatim

I've used TRW in the past (last sbc I rebuilt was mid-90's). I can't say for sure what is good anymore as I am sure many of them are made overseas and I don't have experience with the quality of them. the timing chain setup is pretty simple though, so I would think any decent double roller steel set would be fine.

r16678

I found the one in the link below from summit racing, had a bunch of good reviews and did not cost very much.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...model/corvette

r16678

Quick question for you are there two seals on the valves, the oring and also another seal that attaches to the head? I am trying to understand exactly what I change and how to change it. thanks