AWilson

Guys,
I have learned that the replacement accelerator cable I bought is not working right. I bought it from one of the parts houses. They all seem to sell the same thing. Anyway it doesn't allow full travel of the arm on the carburetor and keeps my secondaries from opening up completely. actually it only opens the secondaries a bit. I know that the bracket on the carb is correct. Engine is a 327, 350 HP. Has anyone experience this and what was your solution? I don't mind a solution that doesn't look original. Thanks in advance

Revi

You just need to adjust the cable. You'll need someone to hold the accelerator to the floor while you look down the carb and get the secondary's wide open, just pull the outer sheath of the cable back until it aligns properly and clamp it.
The shoulder on the outer sheath doesn't have to be flush with the carb bracket, it might end up being pulled aft a 1/4" or so.

QuRace

Is there more than one hole in the lever the throttle cable attaches to? If yes, are you using the innermost one? (And yes, on my carb the wrong/outer/"truck" hole was used before I spottet this... )

suprspooky

My 68 had the same issue, it turned out my Accelerator Pedal Arm was bent by a P/O. I straightened it and it's been fine since.

69autoXr

There could be several things going on. I assume you have a '68, so you likely still have the early two-piece gas pedal. Make sure that the clamp hasn't come loose and worn the hole out of shape so that it isn't clamping effectively. The design was changed for late '69 models to a one-piece gas pedal rod and it works much better. I fought this for years before updating to the one-piece pedal.

The cable itself from the factory is not designed to be adjustable via the outer sheath as Revi suggested above. The mount sleeve should be crimped tight on the sheath so it doesn't slip. I just returned a replacement throttle cable to Corvette Central because the sheath was slipping in the mount sleeve and therefore losing throttle travel despite making 'adjustments' to tighten the cable several times. It took me a little while to realize exactly what was going on, why I'd keep losing throttle travel shortly after adjusting it. I sourced a good factory cable from a friend and installed that and it's much better.

All that said, I believe that the throttle cables from the factory were too long to begin with. My applications have been Holley's, but I modified a factory throttle cable bracket to move it rearward by about 1" to achieve full throttle travel. I don't have a pic available now but could get one later. May not be relevant to Q-Jet applications.

Make sure that the throttle cable mount bracket rotation stop hasn't bent, allowing the bracket to rotate forward and eat up some throttle travel. Again, this may not be relevant to Q-Jet applications.

CanadaGrant

I removed the original cable from my 69 and compared it to an aftermarket cable a couple of years ago. The cable sheath was the same length but the cable itself was a 1/4 inch shorter on the aftermarket unit. It might have been from cable stretch on the original or just the aftermarket trying to make an improvement as full throttle travel has long been a problem, especially on the older C3's.

ddawson

This, I just took mine all apart because the secondary's were not opening all the way. The new cable is just a little shorter but when I was looking at the accelerator I noticed it had about play in it.

The rod had worn a the hole allowing a lot of play. I ordered a new one and will have it tack welded when I reinstall it.

69Vett

common problem, the accelerator arm gets bent from mashing the gas pedal.
just remove and straighten the rod holding the cable.

cardo0

Yea I had and still have problems with my throttle cable. It's a replacement and is too long requiring large bends. And I had to use a lot of bendology on the q-jet's throttle bracket to get it to operate full open and full close. There are no stock replacement brackets for the '74 that I know of so unless I want to change over to non-stock after market I have to make do. Don't forget to use the double spring also as a single return spring just won't cut it. Every parts store sells them on the restoration hardware shelf in a bubble pack.

Now the aftermarket does have some advantages as they are more adjustable and you can find them for nearly any brand carb you have. They just don't look stock and are fairly visible.

What I should say is good throttle control is essential and problematic brackets/cables really have no place on the car.

Good luck and let us know what works for you. Feedback always helps.

Rescue Rogers

Exact same issue on my 68. Just bent it to get it off the floor and its great. Remove it to bend it, the plastic bracket holding it won't be strong enough to bend it inside the car

AWilson

I appreciate the comment. I will check this out but I would think there is nothing to make it bend if it works right. If the cable hits a hard stop on the carb then the pedal will bend over time. If you think about it, it is not the return spring making the pedal break. Something else must be in the way. But I will play with it Saturday and may learn differently

AWilson

I appreciate the comments. I guess it is good to see that this is not an isolated issue and that others have had it. Thanks for the ideas. it will get the wheels turning and I will be on it at 6:00 am Saturday! I'm thinking I will have to modify the sheathing to get more throw and possibly move the fitting down the arm a little. Hopefully.

I may just want to buy a nice aftermarket set-up. Can anyone make a recommendation? A universal kit or one for a Q-Jet?

Street Rat

I purchased a Lokar throttle cable kit from Summit. Problems solved once and for all. Completely adjustable cable. Be sure to get the correct carb bracket AND the cable kit.

jnb5101

I could never understand how mashing a pedal that is retained by a plastic bracket could bend a 7/16" steel rod.

suprspooky

On my 68 it's a piece of flat stock that is formed to shape and the upper portion that the cable connects to is not very sturdy. Over the years people try different manifolds and carbs, (cable bracket changes position) that's how mine got bent and add insulation to the floor which in itself causes loss of throw.

Rescue Rogers

My 68 has a steel rod but the plastic is on the fire wall, and is just a pivot at this point. The pedal is on top of it pushing down, not pulling on. Its possible, that if the cable wasnt adjusted properly and there was space betwwen the floor and pedal, I could see 48 years of mashing the pedal could deform it a tiny bit. Then with cable stretch, bracket deformation at the carb and I also put new insulation and a new carpet in my car as well, yes there is less space below the pedal. Lots of possibilities there that a little bend solved at no cost. If I get a new throttle cable someday I may need to adjust the pedal again.

AWilson

I really wasn't able to figure out why. My pedal bracket is a brand new replacement one. Same as the broken and bent one it replaced. But it is fixed. I took the old cable which has a black plastic sheathing on the end which is where the carb horn hits it and stops. i cut it back so the stop is essentially back further. Then one by one I cut the wires. Secondaries now open fully and after 10 years I have a nice performing car. Those secondaries sure do kick.

Rescue Rogers

And your gas mileage may change!!! Mine sure did

AWilson

I dont drive it much so I don't worry about that. Then again I will drive it more now!!

Rescue Rogers