Before I replace my heater core----
#21
I've lived in warm areas most of my life and I have bypassed heater hoses by just re-routing the flow by tying the supply hose to the return hose.
If you can live without heat for testing this is rather easy and maintains the flowpath active such that you can, more or less, do a pretty good evaluation to check where the fluid loss is occurring.
You could bypass the heater core buy disconnecting the the hoses and connecting them together. That way you can verify it is indeed leaking and if so, it will stop any additional coolant from getting in the cabin.
In the interim, you wouldn't have heat or defrost but I can't recall the last time I used either.
I replaced mine (75 w ac) it took some effort and patients. At the time (hadent discovered the forum yet) I swore gm started with the core and built the car around it. Just the stuff on this thread would have helped.
In the interim, you wouldn't have heat or defrost but I can't recall the last time I used either.
I replaced mine (75 w ac) it took some effort and patients. At the time (hadent discovered the forum yet) I swore gm started with the core and built the car around it. Just the stuff on this thread would have helped.
#22
Advanced
heater core
I've lived in warm areas most of my life and I have bypassed heater hoses by just re-routing the flow by tying the supply hose to the return hose.
If you can live without heat for testing this is rather easy and maintains the flowpath active such that you can, more or less, do a pretty good evaluation to check where the fluid loss is occurring.
#23
No need for a valve, just get a PVC or other plastic inside dia nipple / sleeve / connector, and 2 hose clamps. Cut the hoses, connect them to each other, secure it out of the way until you tackle the core replacement.
Last edited by C3w4sp; 11-24-2017 at 08:51 AM.
#24
I would not recommend PVC (I believe it begins distorting at ~140°F ---somebody can check me on that) so just use some metal connector-should be cheap at hardware store. And I agree there is no need for a valve.
#25
I went and looked it up (I don't like spewing TOO much b.s. ) Here you go, max recommended operating temp is 140°F for PVC.
http://www.heritageplastics.com/tech...ture-pvc-pipe/
http://www.heritageplastics.com/tech...ture-pvc-pipe/
Last edited by carriljc; 11-24-2017 at 11:46 AM.
#26
Dorman makes an ABS 5/8"x3/4" connector just for this. About $2.00
#27
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Don't know if the OP finished this HC replacement yet but just wanted to mention I gave up on using the "monkey poop" for sealing the A/C boxes and used blue RTV instead. It works.
As for a good heater core I just looked over the replacement at several parts store and bought the one I felt comfortable with. It still had to be tweaked to fit right. I don't think there is an ACDelco replacement anymore.
Good idea once you have the heater core out to replace all the foam seals on the ventilation box under the dash to. I found mine all rotted away and plenty of hot engine compartment air just flowed into the pass compartment all the time.
Hope this isn't too late to help.
As for a good heater core I just looked over the replacement at several parts store and bought the one I felt comfortable with. It still had to be tweaked to fit right. I don't think there is an ACDelco replacement anymore.
Good idea once you have the heater core out to replace all the foam seals on the ventilation box under the dash to. I found mine all rotted away and plenty of hot engine compartment air just flowed into the pass compartment all the time.
Hope this isn't too late to help.
#28
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