Pop Chevy

Anybody here run a dry sump system on their c-3 for road racing ? I've bought the best baffled pan I could find and still have a nagging feeling it's not going to work in a long banked turn. Could be a very expensive mistake so I am going to dry sump it this winter. Anybody done this that could post a couple pics for me? Do I have to notch the front crossmember ? Best place to put the tank? How to run the lines ? I am going 4 stage or is 3 stage enough? Hmmm.

BLACK SHARK

Just wondering,,, what pan do you have?

Pop Chevy

Aviaid

gkull

No baffled pan can supply consistent oil pressure on cars exceeding 1 G turns

I cheaped out and installed a 4 quart Accusump on the passenger side roll bar

I've worked on numerous cars with dry sumps. They have a Hp advantage. The hot oil tank in the driver's compartment always bothered me

427Hotrod

Might do a search here on threads by 632C2 from a few years back. His '67 had a 632 in it with a dry sump arrangement. More 'drag race" inspired, but same components. He had a tank built that fit in the "gill area" and managed to get everything to fit nicely.

JIM

Pop Chevy

No baffled pan can supply consistent oil pressure on cars exceeding 1 G turns

I cheaped out and installed a 4 quart Accusump on the passenger side roll bar

I've worked on numerous cars with dry sumps. They have a Hp advantage. The hot oil tank in the driver's compartment always bothered me

I've got a lot of money invested in my engine, I'd hate to loose it due to oiling problems. Does the accusump really work ??

I agree and I don't think SVRA allows oil tanks there. I cleared out the AC unit and am thinking of putting it there or behind me.pass side
Thanks, I will search some more

gkull

yes, they work. Our local track was known for blown motors because of things like 180 degree long turns. we rod knocked two cars during an HMSA event with the best pans available. My vettes oil pressure light would blink and i would have to let off in some turns. I raced for years with my Accusump

HMSA really doesn't allow dry sump additions to cars raced without dry sump back in the day. but they understand the need for owners to protect their motors. We got caught during prerace inspections on Bizzarrinis with dry sumps that were very hidden. It is a talk with the race promoter at that point.

I worked for the shop that has had the winning cars in several groups at the Monterrey Historics. The group 6b winning car for the past 15 years or so has a 4 quart Accusump.

OFFICIAL ROLEX RACE RESULTS
Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion
Date: 8/18-21/2016
Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca
Length: 2.238 Miles
Group 6B - 1963-1966 GT Cars over 2500cc
Pos
No.1
Name
Hometown
CarDescription
Laps
BestTm
InLap
1
75
Thomas Steuer
Bogota Cundinamarca
1965 Chevrolet Corvette
10
1:41.935
6

http://www.mazdaraceway.com/race-res...n-race-results

gg521

I can't speak for a big block but I have run a Canton road race pan on a small block for 20 years with no issues. I have never seen the oil pressure light blink in all that time.

gkull

You are probably just not going fast enough yet! Yes, but are you running slicks or grooved Avons? Even improved Canton pans are not enough in fast cars to prevent periodic loss of oil pressure. It also tends to be tracks with long flat turns

Pop Chevy

I will be running Hoosier slicks and hope to run at Indy and the Glen this yr. My formula car will corner at 2.5 G's and brake at 3 G's, I hope I can do the Vette proud.

Richard454

I'm doing a 3stage dry sump in my 71. Not a Big Block (or even a small block ) but a BMW V12- I could not use the stock in pan oil pump because of clearance. However the engine is about the same size as a big block for reference.

I'm running a 10qt Canton tank- tight fit inside the driverside fender- I've removed the vacuum tank (running electric headlights) and the clutch bracket (running Hyd system).

Here's some pics- this is a street car- running the stock external BMW oil filter canister- that won't leak down when the engine sits- even for extended periods- something to think about -not wanting to prime the engine.

And since it's a street motor - I have set the pulleys pretty close to a one to one ratio.

Since it's tucked in the fenderwell- and draining the side plug would have been a pain- added a drain plug on the bottom- and even have it threaded so I can use a hose to direct the oil in the drain pan- also have a hose on the breather.

One thing I didn't do- and will later- is add a oil door in the top of the fender- for easier access.

Originally was using a Petersen but got a great deal on a "Nutter" 3 stage oil pump.

Here's a good website on Dry sumps-I spoke w/ the owner on setting up mine.

http://nutterracingengines.com/racin..._products.html



















And was able to add a Lokar dipstick -

DSCN5198 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr

DSCN5154

DSCN5088


DSCN4680

DSCN4080

Pop Chevy

NICE ! The pics give me a few ideas. That Nutter pump looks good, they have been building race stuff for a long time and they have a good reputation. Their engines have won a lot of races.

gg521

Gee's, after 20 years of road racing, I just now find out that I am not going fast enough. Thanks for the tip. I guess that this explains why I come in third or fourth every once in a while.

gkull

Like I said. As g force increases the ability of the pan alone ends

I would tend to say that if you are going fine for 20 years you probably don't use road racing slicks and your car has a lower power to weight ratio

Track design also plays a factor

As I was around faster and faster cars I saw more and more failures. I just don't want to take a chance on my over 10000 dollar motors

Pop Chevy

Yer doin good ! The guys I'm gonna be racin with I would be thrilled to finish 3rd or 4th !

gg521

I just want to say that you are correct, slicks are not allowed. Just for grins, I called Canton to discuss this issue and the gentleman I talked to was recommending the Accusump system. The reason was cost and ease of installation over the dry sump.

gkull

what track do you actually race at? I talked to a racing friend and he has a two car race trailer. We discussed finding a series of tracks in the western states and figure their racing schedules and how to be hitting a different track every week starting in the spring. Just cruise around and see the sights for a few months doing a big loop.

TheSkunkWorks

FWIW, having experienced loss of prime on a few occasions during long sweepers (even with some of the items listed below already installed), shy of going dry sump I'm throwing everything else in the book at mine that I know to do. 5-gate RR pan, rear main baffle*, crank scrapper, modern one-way windage screen*, submerged & pressure balanced pump, massaged galleys & returns*, Glyptal painted valley, low restriction filtering (doesn't necessarily mean low filtration), and 3 qt. Accusump*. If that doesn't do it, then I guess dry sump it will be.


TSW

* New items.

69427

I'm not familiar with that description. What's the details on that?

3X2

I don't racw big blocks, although I own a 435 car, we use Dailey pans and pumps and Peterson tanks on our LS race Corvettes. Call Bill Dailey and talk to him.
http://www.daileyengineering.com/dai...ering_home.htm