Dave Vincec

hi all,

Dave Vincec

Hi all,


quick Q ref wiper door mechanism... how 'free moving' should this be when there is no actuator or door attached?


I'm guessing it should be pretty free moving? (but am secretly hoping it shouldnt be - as mine is remarkably stiff at the moment!)


if so - i'm presuming that the prescriptive treatment is to pull the mechanism out, give it a clean up, a grease and reinstall?


Any guidance greatly appreciated!


DAvid

theandies

The last time I had mine disconnected from the actuator it was very free. I did change the plastic bushing a few years earlier.

There are no "grease points" other than what the factory probably used during assembly. I'd remove it and rebuild. My bet is the plastic bushings are worn out or missing....or both.

Alan 71

Hi Dave,
ta is right, the wiper door mechanism is typically very free moving… it should really offer no resistance when cycling through it's motion.
Treat each pivot point individually by cleaning around each bushing and rivet and giving it a shot of wd40 or something similar.
Originally the bushings had no paint on them… the mechanism was assembled after the metal parts were painted. So if you're seeing a lot of 'build-up' on the bushings that could be contributing to a slow moving mechanism.
Regards,
Alan

You can see the 'white' bushings here.

Easy Mike

FWIW: if you decide to remove the linkage, pay particular attention to any factory shim stacks you run across. You'll need them when the linkage goes back in.

Alan 71

Hi,
Mike's right.
You also need to watch for shims under the wiper grill screws too. These help the grill have the same curve as the rear of the hood. (The grill tends to want to be 'flatter' than the rear of the hood.
Regards,
Alan

DUB

David,

I often times use a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone that allows me to carefully get to all pivot points and apply some of the mixture and I can then manually move the door. I use a syringe with a hose attached that allows me to get to all needed pivot points. I have also used a spray grease made by ZEP that worked well.

I understand that even though there are plastic bushings...that does not always mean 'resistance free movement'.

What I have seen over the years is the shoulder of the bolts that hold the door to the mechanism can begin to rust...and THUS...these same shoulders on the special rivets...can also rust....thus...cause for resistance in the assembly....and why does it begin to become hard to move...because the rust is adding material that should not be there.

It is NOT always required to take the entire mechanism apart and install new rivets to get the wiper door assembly to move freely.

DUB