NewbVetteGuy

After getting my brakes working again this weekend and narrowing down my fuel leak, I now must turn my attention to my parking brake.


The guys that did my transmission swap, I believe overly tightened the parking brake cable- it's permanently on even when the lever says it's off.

-I hear a grinding coming from the rear when I take off and I confirmed by jacking up the rear and trying to turn the rear tires- I can actually turn them by hand, but it's difficult. I can hear the slow grinding as I turn them. -The cable going to them is taut so, I'm guessing that they just over-tightened it in the "off" position.


Having said that when I pull the parking brake lever back, it doesn't actually apply any more force, so there could be something else going on here.


I don't understand much about the parking brake system on my Vette and I'm hoping someone can give me some quick pointers.


What I think I understand:

• The parking brake system only applies to the rear wheels
• the parking brake has a very small pad in contact with the inside of the rotors and doesn't have a ton of braking force
• A single cable goes from the parking brake lever inside the car back to the cross-member mounting point wheel /bracket (in my BowTie Overdrives cross member) and then splits in two to each of the rear wheels
• There's a threaded rod with a couple of nuts on it under the car close to the parking brake lever side that you use to adjust the tension of the wire at rest

I'm looking for confirmation / refutation of the above items and then some basic guidelines for how to set the tension so it's not on when it's not supposed to be and it actually works when it's supposed to.



Thanks!
Adam

daustin

Your understanding of those 4 points is correct. If it's grinding, then the inner parking brake shoes are worn out. I'd loosen the center (with the two nuts) until you can turn the rear wheels by hand. Then a little at a time tighten the two nuts up the shaft. My driveway is on an incline, i tighten the brake a couple turns at a time, test drive (for no draging) and then see if it will hold on the incline.

Don

NewbVetteGuy

Hmm... I didn't think of that. But having said that it's probably been driven 10 miles with the parking brake slightly on so that shouldn't be surprising I guess....


Jeeze; yet another thing... Happen to have some basic instructions on replacing the parking brake shoes?


Adam

Peterbuilt

Hi Adam,
There are good instruction about repairing your parking brake in the Haynes Repair Manual, on sale at every auto parts store.
Lets confirm where the problem is by having a helper pull up and down on the parking brake lever while you see if the front cable moves.
It could be the two nut part (the equalizer) is adjusted too tight.
Check that the 'back cable' moves freely in and out at each wheel.

If the cables move freely then it's time to pull a tire and check the adjustment inside the rotor.
At this point, you should go to the manual as there is too much to type.

Are your rotors still riveted on?

Pete.

kanvasman

And then...maybe the shoes or the hardware are rusted up. Most of us don't use the parking brake so everything has a tenency to rust up, even if everything is adjusted properly. Sometimes they just get stuck. The you have a real project on your hands, get a manual, and replace it all with stainless steel parts for the future. Could be something simple, an adjustment, or something not, like pulling the rotors to get to the shoes. Good luck.

mrvette

As you get into this you will find the entire brake/drum/shoe set up is regular steel, and you need stick with the steel version of the brake shoes, as the STAINLESS shoes flex too much and will not pass a parking test......the rest of the little levers and catches and crap need be stainless or your reliability is zilch.....

now for the test....you leave that cable loose enough to not drag, and when you head to the test station, you get under the car very close by, and tighten up that cable but snug, then you pass the test, and drive off and relax the cable when you are out of site.....same thing I had to do to pass a Maryland test some 22 years ago, thankfully it was a one shot deal, so then on, and Florida with no test.....I never use the parking brake, as it's useless on a good day, and Florida is flat as a pond......

Rescue Rogers

Use the AIM instructions. They are very detailed. You need to disconnect the half shafts to release any drivetrain drag and jack each wheel up so they are level to release any drag by the angle on the half shafts if they are connected to the rear wheels. There are pad adjustments via the star spreader inside each drum that need to be addressed as well so that both brakes engage equally. Then you will adjust the lever.

Buy an AIM for you model year. I cant quickly find the shoe adjustment procedure that detailed eliminating the drad on the drive line. You may be able to adjust them with out it, but I found it was difficult and I need to remove my stubs to get it correct

Big2Bird

Tighten the star wheel as tight as you can, then back off 8-9 teeth.
Works better after you use them awhile, or burnish then cool.

Rescue Rogers

i may try it this way, its easier than removing the stub shafts.

thanks