rlandaiche

I've been thinking of making my 350 zz4 into a 383 stroker. Can anyone tell me all that is involved. I know a stroker crank and rods, but will the block have to be bored? Thanks














God Bless
Richard

tektrans

I would just sell it whole and buy this
http://www.nyesautomotive.net/383_SBC_450HP.html
For what it will cost to stroke out your motor imo you better off.

Darinm

Richard, you only need to bore if there is need to bore due to wear. A 383 is a longer stroke but same bore. The block will have to be clearanced for the longer stroke. I just had mine done a few weeks ago from a 350 block. In my case I had to bore it out in order to utilize my .30 over pistons I already had.

BKbroiler

A 350 block has to be bored .030, plus the stroke increase to create a 383. You can use the standard bore, then you will have a 377.

Buccaneer

Darinm is not correct. A 377 is great if you want a high rev'in motor.

Darinm

sorry, yes let me clarify and expand my answer. .30 over with a 400 crank (3.75" stroke) does indeed get you 383 cubic inches. I was assuming the zz4 was newer and might even have decent rods and pistons. So if it doesnt need boring, hone the cylinders, put new rings, a 400 crank and then yes a 377 cubic inch. You'll still need to clearance the block for the longer stroke though.

Jebbysan

Two ways to build 377.....

4.00x3.750
or
4.155x3.480

Two totally different personalities but the short stroke has more horsepower potential due to the large bore......

Moving on.......get a balanced kit from a reputable outlet, speed shop etc.......you can get an Eagle rotator for $1000 balanced.....

You will have to clearance the pan rail a smidge and possibly the bottom of the bores.
From my experience Eagle has redesigned the SIR rod to make the bolt area clear better......my own 5.700 long rod 406 required zero clearancing.
Another point is to check cam to rod clearance as well........especially with Roller cams........

The rest assembles as normal.

Jebby

NewbVetteGuy

From what limited research I've done, there are WAY more piston options with a 0.030" bore.


My thought was that since my engine only has 14k miles on it, if the cylinders are in good shape, I'd redo it as a 383 without boring it 0.030" over- just to keep the cylinder walls as thick as possible, but the overwhelming majority of stroker kits have pistons that start at 0.030" over.



Adam

ajrothm

The high rev'n 377 you are talking about is a completely different type of build. Thats using a 400 block and a 350 crank...(4.15" bore and 3.48" stroke).

If the OP already has a good ZZ4 block, he may as well put the 3.75" crank and build a 383. The ZZ4 block is a "roller" block so he can easily stick a different roller cam in it and use stock roller lifters.

Richard,
The ZZ4 block will need the block clearanced at the bottom of the cylinders and the pan rails, it will also need to be line bored for the new crank, and ofcourse bored to .030". Then you can use any "stroker" kit you want and have the cylinders final honed to size for the pistons in the kit.

You are really gonna need a much better set of heads then the L98s though for a 383, its going to run out of steam quick.

As Tektrans mentioned, you are probably better off buying a crate motor already built if you are going to have buy all of the parts, pay for the machine work and pay for assembly.

They Nyes 460hp crate probably isnt a bad deal but.... for $5k I'd prefer a roller cam just for reliability.