OldCarBum

I'm still in the research and planning stages for the full frame off and modification of my '73, 454, TH400, 3.36 rear end Coupe. At this time I plan to keep the TH400 and 3.36 gears or may swap to 3.08's. I've talked with a couple performance machine shops who have suggested putting a 496 stroker kit in my 454 when I rebuild it. They say that the cost is minimal compared to inspecting and reconditioning my stock crank, rods and other rotating components in the bottom end and the increased torque of the 496 will be noticeable. Of course I'm planning to mildly increase the compression ratio, add aluminum oval port heads, a new intake, carburetor, headers and a camshaft all designed to work well in the 1500-6000 rpm range. I've looked on-line and found the cost in minimal.
My questions for those of you who made this modification are:

1). Who's stroker kit did you purchase?
2). Did you go with the H beam or I beam rods?
3). Forged or cast crank?
4). Was the additional torque really noticeable?

mikem350

Another thing to consider is if its matching number block. But once you go for the heads/intake upgrade, the stealth and originality factor goes away. Also maybe a converter swap.

Anyway, either 454 or stroker, a nice torquey BB will light your fire (and your tires)

Jebbysan

The I-beam rods are good for all you can throw at them short of 7000rpm with a fogger.......H-beam are in most cases a waste of money.
I like Eagle......Scat is good too but I have more experience with Eagles stuff......I have assembled both.

A cast steel crank is also plenty stout......more than enough for a street car.......

The torque is very noticeable.......50-60 ft/lbs. plus.......the difference between a 427 and 454....

Jebby

7t9l82

I'm a big fan of 496's you will notice the difference.

cv67

Do it

Leave the gears as is wasting your money.

Pop Chevy

Key question..... What is the intended use of the car ??? Racing , cruising, track use ??

ddawson

1, Eagle forged kit
2, Kit came with H beams
3, Forged
4, hell yes, made 509 RWTQ

OldCarBum

Thanks guys.
One of the machine shop owners stated that H beam rods were overkill. He said I beam rods gave more clearance and allowed for less machining of the block, and a cast steel crank would work perfect for my application.

My plan for the car is cruising the highways, driving foothill twisties and coastal roadways. Highway speeds of 70 mph shows about 3000 rpm.
The people I've talked to say that a big block running a carburetor is very happy at 2800 to 3000 rpm for cruising. Anything less and I'll have issues unless I go to an EFI system, and unless I'm road racing or drag racing the car, installing lower gears is a real waste and would be annoying at highway speeds.

ddawson

LOL drives just fine at 1500 RPM. With my 3.36 rear 70 is at 3K.

4th gear at 25MPH is no issue.

TimAT

I'm in the middle of a 496 build- Eagle H-beam rods and crank, SRP pistons. Forged everything. No clearance problems with the rods, block was open enough from the factory. I'm building for bulletproof and total reliability on pump gas.

427Hotrod

Ck with Mark Jones at VortecPro for some killer 496" builds. Also search for threads by Allen (AJROTHM) on his '71 with a 496. TONs of great info...dyno testing...racing, cross country driving with A/C, PB, PS, T-400 and 3.36 gears. All with a pump gas iron headed 650 HP 496!

Mark just did a 496 with AFR oval heads for another buddy to put in his '66 Vette. It made 700 HP and drives around withn an O/D auto and A/C.


JIM

OldCarBum

Thanks to you all.
Great info and the kind of feedback I was looking for.
Greg

cv67

x2 on vortecpro really hard to beat for the money and they do what you want them to...and last.

7T1vette

If you are mostly 'cruising' with it, I'm not sure why you want to bother adding more cubes. 454 would do plenty good for cruising.

If I were you, I'd spend the money swapping out the THM-400 for a well built 200-4R or 700-R4 O/D transmission. It would be a perfect match with your 3.36 rear gear (I have the same combo in my '71 SB coupe). The Lo gear in the trans will give you a much better shot off the line; and the O/D will net you a 20% increase in highway mileage.

Just make sure you put a well built torque converter on that O/D trans that is designed to meet your performance AND normal driving needs. And spend the money (app. $100) for a "real" lockup clutch controller. It greatly simplifies the usefulness of the L/U clutch and prevents its operation when it should NOT be 'on'.

OldCarBum

I'm still considering changing out to an overdrive or TKO-600. I'm going through the engine and want to increase the torque/hp. For the slight price difference in reconditioning my stock rotating components, why not add the additional cubic inches and stoke it. I'll be doing other performance mods as well. Just because I say I'll be cruising, doesn't mean it can't be a kick in the pants cruise. I own a 200+mph Ducati and cruise on it. Cruising on my Ducati usually means that I try not to exceed all the speed laws and "usually" keep the mph under 120. I do try.

7T1vette

Hey, different strokes for different folks! If you're the kind of guy that needs more 'kick' than a well tuned stock BB will give...go for it!!

ajrothm

Definitely no reason to NOT do a 496 if you are buying a crank...

My car literally drives like a stock 365hp 454.....only with way more power everywhere.

T400 and 3.36 gears as well...

I drive it everywhere, hell it even gets close to stock MPG on the highway..(11-12).

I'll be long hauling on the Hot Rod Power Tour with it in June...

Love me some big cubes..

SD71VETTE