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I just pulled a Muncie from a 68. Fixed crossmember although it does have side pipes which makes it easier. Converting over to a Tremec TKO 600. 6 hours later it is installed with a new clutch, bellhousing is indexed in and the only thing I'm waiting for is the driveshaft. That should arrive tomorrow. Its a tight squeeze getting the Tremec in with a fixed cross member but it can be done. This I think is my 8th install of one of these so you learn a few tricks along the way. Also helps I have a 4 post lift and a trans jack.
I just pulled a Muncie from a 68. Fixed crossmember although it does have side pipes which makes it easier. Converting over to a Tremec TKO 600. 6 hours later it is installed with a new clutch, bellhousing is indexed in and the only thing I'm waiting for is the driveshaft. That should arrive tomorrow. Its a tight squeeze getting the Tremec in with a fixed cross member but it can be done. This I think is my 8th install of one of these so you learn a few tricks along the way. Also helps I have a 4 post lift and a trans jack.
You like a project! I figured the engine needed to come out, You did this with out pulling the engine?
Well, I think you got your answer, but to contribute my little part.....
Before I made my crossmember removable I removed the Muncie M-21 out of my 68 by following most of the hints mentioned above. I also removed 1 or 2 (don't remember) of the aft bolts on the tranny to give me additional 5/16" to 3/8" ..... this allowed me to pull the Muncie as far back against the crossmember as possible, and to slide the front of the input shaft along the rear face of the bell housing, as I tilted the engine down at the same time (and, yes, I removed my distributor).
PS- I now have a removable crossmember so it's a non-problem to remove and replace my tranny.
You like a project! I figured the engine needed to come out, You did this with out pulling the engine?
Yes. It can be done and I have done a bunch of times now. Strip everything off the trans before trying to remove it. It actually comes out quite easy. The Tremec takes some effort and you put the trans back in before putting the bellhousing on. You have to wiggle the bellhousing up there while you have the Tremec going in. It can be done but as I said I have a lift and trans jack but I do it by myself also.
Mine didn't. It was catching up on the shifter bracket. So, I removed all that stuff. I'm not the only one who has run into this problem. That said, doing this alone under the car on 18" jacks at 62 yrs old maybe a contributing factor.
Got me by 2 years! 60, I took every thing out of the way including the shifter bracket.
Yes. It can be done and I have done a bunch of times now. Strip everything off the trans before trying to remove it. It actually comes out quite easy. The Tremec takes some effort and you put the trans back in before putting the bellhousing on. You have to wiggle the bellhousing up there while you have the Tremec going in. It can be done but as I said I have a lift and trans jack but I do it by myself also.
Looking to do this on a 1970, so it can be done with a fixed transmission crossmember?
Looking to do this on a 1970, so it can be done with a fixed transmission crossmember?
Most of the swaps Ihave done were auto to manual so the trans mount was removable. Makes it a whole lot easier. The last 2 cars happened to both be 68s with side exhaust. The removal of the Muncie is easy. Just remove the shifter and all brackets so just the trans is left. Remove the bracket that is attached to the fixed crossmember. Now push it back far enough so the pilot shaft will clear the bellhousing and drop the front of the trans. Takes a little wiggling but it does drop right out. Now going back in Both of these cars had the smaller 403 bellhousing, 153 tooth flywheel vs the 621 168 tooth bellhousing. They are using the 10.4 inch clutch and both had Centerforce clutches I installed. More than enough clutch to hold the power. The key to getting this in after the clutch is installed is as you are working the TKO up into place you have to work the bellhousing up also. The way they want you to do it is just leave the flywheel on and put the trans up in the tunnel then the bellhousing up to the trans then install and try to line up the clutch with all that in the way. I did not do it like this. I had the clutch already installed and lined up. It takes some wiggling and rotating the bellhousing but it gradually gets in there. As I said I have a lift and trans jack which makes it a lot easier, but I had only 1 set of hands also. I then have 2 long studs i screw into the bellhousing and slide the trans on these. If the clutch is lined up it will slide right in and bolt it up.
The first one I did was my car and I made the cross member removeable. I did this knowing I was always changing things out so I wanted an easy removal process. I'm glad I did as I had it out multiple times for various reasons. Now I run a T56 6 speed and had to heavily modify the cross member and no way can yo udo this with a fixed cross member
As I said I have a lift and trans jack (Got a lift but not a jack) which makes it a lot easier, but I had only 1 set of hands also (Me too). I then have 2 long studs i screw into the bellhousing and slide the trans on these. (Got these!) If the clutch is lined up it will slide right in and bolt it up.
This seems like a good place to ask this question. I am not sure if I'm going to have to replace my clutch yet, but I thought I'd do all the prep just in case. Last time I did this I borrowed a friends very expensive (but old) transmission jack and it made the job a whole lot easier except for the fact that I had to rebuild the thing in the middle of the job because it leaked and various and other sundry problems.
I wouldn't mind seeing picture or description of the transmission jack you use, Gordon. In lieu of actually buying one for a hypothetical clutch job that I don't know I need to do yet, I made the enclosed rig to attach to my floor jack. Seems to have the requisite degrees of freedom with the exception of having to horse around the tranny on the arc of the circle I cut, rather than turn a screw to change the angle.
This cradle is for a Muncie and car has a conventional bell housing. Think it will work?
This seems like a good place to ask this question. I am not sure if I'm going to have to replace my clutch yet, but I thought I'd do all the prep just in case. Last time I did this I borrowed a friends very expensive (but old) transmission jack and it made the job a whole lot easier except for the fact that I had to rebuild the thing in the middle of the job because it leaked and various and other sundry problems.
I wouldn't mind seeing picture or description of the transmission jack you use, Gordon. In lieu of actually buying one for a hypothetical clutch job that I don't know I need to do yet, I made the enclosed rig to attach to my floor jack. Seems to have the requisite degrees of freedom with the exception of having to horse around the tranny on the arc of the circle I cut, rather than turn a screw to change the angle.
This cradle is for a Muncie and car has a conventional bell housing. Think it will work?
The only issue I see and it is a big one is the trans does not go straight up and down. My jack has a flat plate on it and I use it more as a place to rest the weight of the trans vs jacking it into its "home" position. I raise it up into a certain location then you have to raise the tail of the trans up and over the crossmember. So the jack is supporting the weight of the trans at the front while I jockey the rear up and over. Once that is in place and resting on the crossmember I slowly raise the front of the trans while jockeying it into position and working the bellhousing up and in. Even removing the Muncie with a welded in cross member the trans is not simply and up and down. It has to be tilted all over. I just use the jack to support the weight. My jack is nothing fancy. I bought it from Greg Smith equipment when I was buying my lift. I think he gave me a deal at the time on it. I think it was only around 80 bucks at the time. The plate is somewhat adjustable. I'll see if I can dig up a picture or a link to it.
Correction, Looks like it was a Harbor freight one. It lists for 199 but I know I paid about 7 years ago under 100 dollars. I dont use any of the attachment on the top plate but it is tiltable. I never had to strap it down or anything I just hold onto it because yo ujack it up with your foot.
Thanks for the long reply, Gordon. I should be able to tilt the transmission on this rig by sliding the curved pieces along the arc I cut with my bandsaw. Maybe my second picture makes this clearer. It won't move easily with the weight of the transmission on it but at least it should stay in place (the aluminum plate is just resting there so it doesn't get lost. It fastens to the jack). I don't think the tranny would ever need to be in this orientation with the input shaft pointed up. It's either level or the tail tilts up to clear my factory crossmember.
Thanks for the long reply, Gordon. I should be able to tilt the transmission on this rig by sliding the curved pieces along the arc I cut with my bandsaw. Maybe my second picture makes this clearer. It won't move easily with the weight of the transmission on it but at least it should stay in place (the aluminum plate is just resting there so it doesn't get lost. It fastens to the jack). I don't think the tranny would ever need to be in this orientation with the input shaft pointed up. It's either level or the tail tilts up to clear my factory crossmember.
Pretty neat jig! All the ones I've done just use my hands and arms
11-06-2017, 05:59 PM
