wallifishrmn

Is there an combination of crank, rods, etc that will allow you to stroke a 350 sbc to either 3.625 or 3.75 WITHOUT having to do an grinding on the block, etc. If so, what combination--what specific rods, APR bolts, crank? Thanks

JoeMinnesota

Depends on a number of things but, yes, is possible. 3 main areas of concern are rod to block clearance, crank to block and rod to cam clearance.

Crank to block can be tackled by using an aftermarket crank specifically built and clearanced for a 383 stroker. The 383 stroke is 3.75". Rod to block clearance can be tackled by either (a) using stock 400 SBC rods (5.565") but that rod length is not preferred, or buying aftermarket 5.7" rods already clearanced for the block. Stock or std aftermarket 5.7" rods can be easily found, but mock-up and relieving of the rods and/or block may be likely needed in a few spots if they aren't already relieved. I only noticed recently that they are available - in the past most of us bought rods, pistons with proper pin height for stroker and then spent extra time with mock up and clearancing.

Rod to cam can be addressed with the pre-clearances rods, using the shorter 5.565" rod or by using a cam ground on a small base circle. Ultimately the 5.7" rod (or longer 6" aftermarket) is the preferred rod choice for a couple of reasons (piston dwell and side-loading).

Others will chime in with their opinions. If it were me, I would opt for SCAT or other aftermarket crank (cast is fine for street applications), a 5.7" steel I-beam rod already relieved and talk to the vendor for input on cam clearance. I have used a small base circle Ultradyne hydraulic in the past with the long rods, worked fine, but also requires a longer (typically +0.100") pushrod. Regardless of parts you choose, it is critical to mock up the assembly following machinework to check clearances -- no matter who tells you they are bolt-in parts.

JoeMinnesota

You can check out some specifics here at Skip White (have never used them) and they could probably answer questions or supply clearanced parts.
http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...tem=383S3022D2

70LQ4

The first 383 I built 25 Years ago ,was with cut down 400 crank and 400 factory Rods . It still need clearance grinding to the Block . 400 rods were designed to clear a standard base circle Camshaft. Aftermarket stroker rods will clear the cam , but the Block will still need to be ground or at least checked for proper clearance. Every one I ever built needed to be ground for clearance. Don't be afraid of Factory 400 Rods , they will last as long as long as RPM's are kept below 6000. I got 175.000 miles out of it before I sold it, and it was running great. Stan

Solid LT1

You can go to small journal connecting rods to gain room. I guess your worried about a "matching numbers" engine block. If the shop is the least bit competent the clearancing poses no threat to block integrity. They should be able to show you photos of a clearances block to put you at ease.

rklessdriver

Without going to a small journal there is no for sure combo of rods and stroke that will clear without grinding the block.

I have built hundreds of these engines in stock blocks from 400HP up to 650HP and never not had to grind one.... Espc where the oil filter is located around cyl 7 because the pan rail curves in there and significantly impacts how much room you have for the rod.

These SCAT rods have the most clearance around the bolt and the cam of any budget priced shelf stocking connecting rod.

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/scat-...ods-40527.html

You can see how much shorter the area around the bolt is where it would hit the bottom of the cyl and on top of the shoulder where it would hit the cam.



I have used the SCAT rod many times in street engines and they required the least amount of work to make fit but I still had to grind in some places on some blocks.

These Callies Ultra XD rods have the cap offset and bolt arrangement splayed for more clearance. I had to run these in my 434 SBC (4" stroke) to clear the camshaft. They are fairly expensive but you are buying one of the finest steel rods money can buy.

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/calli...ods-49779.html

You can see how the rod cap is offset and the bolts are splayed for more clearance.



These (2) rods are your best bet but it's not guaranteed.
Will

Alex66

Here is mine (383) with forged scat kit...

cv67

x2 on the scat. I beams will handle plenty of power
There are some "strong" aftermarkets that look crazy cheap but may require more clearancing and balancing not worth it.
Used Manley H beams and still run a std base circle cam

Remove only what you have to to take your time hitting a water jacket its not a good feeling .

wallifishrmn

I think one can get by without any grinding if you use a small journal crank with 2.0 journals and small journal rods. Also the right rods--Eagle SIR and ARP bolts. I think--you won't know for sure until you mock it up.