kansas123

Do you always install the copper washer when putting the brake hose on the caliper? I have new rebuilds on the fronts, newly installed, and I think maybe I have a leak there. Is there an exact alignment you need to keep that washer when tightening it up? Is it a seal? Thanks

Alan 71

Hi,K,
The AIM shows the copper washers at the front calipers so I use them.
There's not an orientation there, but after installing the hose at the caliper you need to make sure the hose doesn't have a twist in it when you install it at the small bracket on the frame.
The hoses typically have a colored stripe on them so you can easily see if there's a twist or not.
Regards,
Alan

kansas123

Thanks Alan.... I forgot to say that the reason I asked about any alignment of the washer is because it is larger than the threads of the hose so I did not know if it then could let fluid out if I was not aligned in some way. Would it hurt to use 2 washers??? I shouldn't be bottoming out I wouldn't think. I'll be honest, this car is killing me. I broke the inside bleeder screw on the driver's side rear last fall while trying to bleed the brake system (car had sat for a year and had no brakes), and I decided at that time that the trailing arms were rust soaked and needed replacing. So I did that, replaced the entire assy and also had the rotors turned and replaced calipers, caliper lines, hoses, pads...everything in the rear except the differential. Having done that, I discovered the front pass side caliper was leaking, so I tried to rebuild it with no luck. So I replaced those hoses, calipers, brake pads. I still cannot get the brakes to work, soft pedal all the way to the floor. It may be this leak on the driver's side hose where it goes into the caliper; can't find any other leaks. I will try to tightened it and see if that works.

MelWff

2 washers increase the number of seams that could leak. What procedure are you using to
bleed the brakes and you are doing RR, LR, RF, and LF? I didnt see the master listed, did you replace it and if so bench bleed it?

kansas123

Bench bled new master, after install of trailing arms etc, bled rears, right inside, right outside, left inside, left outside. Was told to still expect a mushy brake pedal until I finished the fronts. As stated, ended up in the front replacing calipers, pads, hoses; also replaced inner and outer front bearings and also the splash/dust shields. After installing the fronts, bled left first then right. I had installed speed bleeders, and so pumping was only thing necessary. Since I had that wee leak on the front driver's side where the new hose attaches to the caliper, I am guessing that is why I still have no brakes.

I'll tell you one thing: once the leak in front is fixed, I'm removing the rear tires again to finish adjusting the parking brake (I didn't get it right yet), re-bleeding the rears and if that doesn't get me brakes, I'm taking it to have the bleeding done. I cannot deal with this any longer. I just won't. I spent quite a bit of time and effort with the number of times and ways I tried bleeding them before replacing everything. Thanks for your quick response(s). I was a pedal pusher (twice), then a mighty vac boy, then a gravity man before that, all the stinking way around each time. Sorry, I think I went on a rant there. I have heard and now have experienced the difficult C3 brake system.

resdoggie

If you need to use two or more copper washers then something is wrong and needs to be corrected. Many of us here don't have difficulty bleeding the C3 brakes by using the pedal method. I've been doing it that way for 28 years, ss sleeved calipers with lip seals. So, it can be done. A lot of guys get themselves into your position and its very frustrating. Maybe you missed a step in the process? Once your leak is fixed, I would try the old pedal method again.

kansas123

What is absolutely nuts is that when I got the car 12 years ago, I replaced the front brake pads, hoses, and the hard line on the driver's side. (I recall being amazed at that time that I was able to get exactly that part too). Didn't have even the slightest problem at that time doing anything brake related. I shall move forward.

MelWff

are you tapping the calipers with a hammer when you bleed to dislodge any air bubbles?

danh77

I just replaced my lt frt caliper, brake hose, and hard line. Caliper came with 2 copper washers also. I only used 1 as that's what I took off. I figured it was probably a generic baggie with the washers used for many applications. Of course I now have a slight leak at the same spot you do but I still have very good brakes. I have had good luck gravity bleeding on this car as well as my other cars.

kansas123

yes

7T1vette

Bleed the brake system[s]. Put it together and drive the car over railroad tracks, bumps, whatever...to dislodge any trapped air in those calipers. Rebleed each brake caliper. You should be fine.

The original Chevy Service Manual even cautioned about trapped air in the calipers. That's where the "tap with a rubber mallet" advice came from. It is an issue. You have my "solution" above.