trozfan

1972 350/4 speed
Early 80's truck 350 (don't know anything about the internals but i think it is pretty stock)
Brand new:
Holley 600
HEI distributor (had points)
Plugs and wires
Gas tank
Exhaust
Original Muncie 4 speed

i bought this as a running project. I did all of the above because it needed it anyways, but was hoping to get it running better. It doesn't run much better after installing all of this.

Problem:
Car starts right up and idles/runs great. I can have it running perfect in neutral all day long. As soon as I put it in gear it wants to die. I can just barely keep it running by feathering the clutch big time, but if I try to go down my driveway it is a chore. And it will eventually die. Timing is at 12 BTDC with vacuum advance plugged. Carb tuned with a vacuum gauge- mixture screw is between 1-1 1/2 turns. HEI has 13+ volts running. Don't know total timing- only have a basic timing light. Anything more than that is above my mechanical knowledge. My background is full auto restorations but I am a fabricator/welder/electrical wiring/restoration guy- mechanical stuff is not my thing. I'm seriously ready to cut this project loose if I can't get this thing running right. I got this for a quick restoration project because I always wanted a chrome bumper C3 but it is turning into so much more. I have a 1963 Econoline project with an LS that I'd rather be spending my time on.

Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance

MelWff

1. are you adjusting the idle speed with the vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum?
2. what idle speed are you setting it to? try a minimum of 800 rpm.
3. have you tried adjusting mixture screws using idle rpm rather than vacuum gauge? Turn in 1/8 turn at a time. If you notice a drop turn back out 1/4 turn. Repeat with opposite screw.

BLUE1972

If you set the mixture with a vacuum gauge - set it to max vacuum and then open the screws 1/4 to 1/2 turn richer.

I assumed you checked the choke is open.

With the engine off - pull back on the carb and see if the accelerator pump is working. - should squirt fuel into the carb.

From what you describe you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Check to see if a vacuum port is open. Headlight / wiper system leaking.

A low fuel level in the carb can cause this also.
Leaking Power valve.

trozfan

As stated in my original post- the car runs and idles great in neutral. It also revs great and has nice throttle response. The problem arises when it is put in gear. I don't think the replies are addressing this particular problem. I'm not asking how to tune the carb- something else is going on here. Plus the carb is brand new. Fuel is at proper levels as seen by removing sight plugs.

There are no vacuum leaks. The entire headlight and wiper door vacuum system is removed for electric conversion. The only vacuum is the PCV; vacuum advance; and brake booster.

fishslayer143

perhaps your clutch is out of adjustment and not disengaging fully .. is it difficult to put in 1st gear? You should have 1 inch play at top of pedal travel.. If the car sat up, the flywheel may be rusty and causing drag on disc when disengaged , causing engine to die .

BLUE1972

If the car rolls freely, the options are :

Put the car in 4th gear and have someone push the car, with the clutch disengaged if it doesn't roll, put it in neutral and try again - if it does roll it's the trans.

The trans is grabbing 2 gears, or a bearing in the trans is seized.

The rear / hub has a seized bearing

the brakes are not releasing

Jack up the rear of the car, lift the rear wheels under the trailing arms (to somewhat level to save the 1/2 shafts) and see if the engine stalls when engaging the clutch. If it does it's the drive line.

If the clutch disk is burnt - it may grab, making clutch engagement sudden and rough.

If the car rolls freely most times it's a low or no horsepower issue with the motor.

hope you find it...

trozfan

Well, I finally got it running good enough to drive down the street for the first time. Shift from 1st to 2nd and the RPMs go way up. I immediately knew what was wrong. Jacked the car up and sure as heck- the previous owner has the linkage arms upside down on the Muncie- so 1 and 2 are backward and 3 and 4 are backward. Easy fix, just not something I ever thought to look at. So this whole time trying to get it running in gear- I was starting out in 2nd. Add it to the long list of jackassery the previous owner did to this car.

Griff2002

I owned a '70 Firebird Formula that was set up this way. The prior owner claimed he did it to keep his friends from joyriding in the car. It was the first thing I changed on the car.

RubyRedMetallic

Sorry to laugh at your issues. But that's funny. When I rebuilt my m22 the directions made it very clear to put those upwards. That said the previous owner of mine was also a jack ***. I bought it totally restored except motor. Every single piece of the drive train was either wrong, loose or adjusted badly. Timing was retarded 30 degrees. Spent a year removing and re installing everything. Rebuilt tranny and fixing motor. Almost perfect now, just tuning it right.

C6-CYa

FYI, you are responding to someone that hasn't been on the forum in six years... They won't mind you laughing