Lubing tach cable in 72
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Lubing tach cable in 72
I have ticking from the tach. Slow tick at idle, increases with increase in idle. It's a new (4 year old) cable.
Can I pull the metal cable out of the sheath from either end? And then, is the 2/3 rule telling me to lube the cable all the way at to the distributor end? I don't have to worry about getting lube in the distributor, only the tach?
Can I pull the metal cable out of the sheath from either end? And then, is the 2/3 rule telling me to lube the cable all the way at to the distributor end? I don't have to worry about getting lube in the distributor, only the tach?
#4
Drifting
I have ticking from the tach. Slow tick at idle, increases with increase in idle. It's a new (4 year old) cable.
Can I pull the metal cable out of the sheath from either end? And then, is the 2/3 rule telling me to lube the cable all the way at to the distributor end? I don't have to worry about getting lube in the distributor, only the tach?
Can I pull the metal cable out of the sheath from either end? And then, is the 2/3 rule telling me to lube the cable all the way at to the distributor end? I don't have to worry about getting lube in the distributor, only the tach?
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette...cator-609467-1
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone. I've unhooked the tach cable from the tach with a long screwdriver before, so I guess I can do some stretches and get ready.
So if I use the fitting and buy an ordinary grease gun I'm just getting "ordinary" grease to put in it?
So if I use the fitting and buy an ordinary grease gun I'm just getting "ordinary" grease to put in it?
#8
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Here is the factory AC delco specifications for cable lubrication.
Just follow this and you'll be okay. The speedo and tach cables are reverse wound so applying too much lube to it will only cause the cable to push the lube into the speedo/tach head. This will cause (and always does) premature failure in the speedo/tach head since the oylite bushing inside the head is not receptive to lubrication.
Willcox
Just follow this and you'll be okay. The speedo and tach cables are reverse wound so applying too much lube to it will only cause the cable to push the lube into the speedo/tach head. This will cause (and always does) premature failure in the speedo/tach head since the oylite bushing inside the head is not receptive to lubrication.
Willcox
#9
Race Director
I unscrew the cable from the distributor and hold it face up. I then put MOBIL 1, 0-10 or 5-20 synthetic into the end and spin the cable by hand.
Have done 6 or 7 with no issue.
It also works on cleaning the clock on a stove and the OE clock in the car.
In the old days I used LOCK EASE which is graphite in a solution, Messy but works really well also.
I don't like the grease due to it getting thick in the cold. I drive year round.
High speed R/C boats and cable drives use Graphite synthetic brake Caliper grease as a lube for the cables. They turn 20k to 30k rpm. It's water proof and very high temperature.
Have done 6 or 7 with no issue.
It also works on cleaning the clock on a stove and the OE clock in the car.
In the old days I used LOCK EASE which is graphite in a solution, Messy but works really well also.
I don't like the grease due to it getting thick in the cold. I drive year round.
High speed R/C boats and cable drives use Graphite synthetic brake Caliper grease as a lube for the cables. They turn 20k to 30k rpm. It's water proof and very high temperature.
Last edited by BLUE1972; 03-05-2017 at 08:46 PM.
#11
Race Director
I use 1 eye dropper full . I put it in the end and turn the cable by hand. It will usually go right into the cable.
Hold the cable up, the threaded connector makes a great cup and work it in. I usually hold the cable with a paper towel incase any drips as the car is really clean.
Hold the cable up, the threaded connector makes a great cup and work it in. I usually hold the cable with a paper towel incase any drips as the car is really clean.
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
I put in 1 mL but my "cup" leaked quite a bit down the outside of the sheath.
If I repeat the process and really concentrate the drops to go down the cable - how much is too much?
If I repeat the process and really concentrate the drops to go down the cable - how much is too much?
#13
Race Director
You don't need much, on some cables I could actually feel the cable turn more freely. I think it softened the old grease and lubed the cable.
I use an eyedropper full, work it in and unless the cable is really tight - then two will usually work well and that is usually enough. It will spread and work into the cable.
I use an eyedropper full, work it in and unless the cable is really tight - then two will usually work well and that is usually enough. It will spread and work into the cable.
Last edited by BLUE1972; 03-08-2017 at 07:27 PM. Reason: hate auto spell
#14
Racer
I had the same problem with my 72. I used one of these. Works good.
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette...cator-609467-1
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette...cator-609467-1
#16
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
It may solve your cable noise or issue but in the long run you'll damage your speedo/tachometer head which will cost you way more money than the cost to replace or lubricate the cable as per the instructions I posted above which is the factory AC Delco/GM lubrication instructions.
You would not believe the number of speedo/tach heads that come in here packed full of grease that are worn completely out. The grease gets in the head and because the first worm is magnetic it will attract lint and other debris from inside your car. This in turn sticks to the grease and can cause premature failure.
The worst thing about this is the first worm and magnet bushing (where the grease ends up) will fail rapidly from this grease being present. You guys need to keep in mind that the cable is reverse wound and it will pull any grease you apply to the cable upwards... That thing says you can use regular grease in it and you can't! NEVER ever ever ever use regular grease! Regular grease will be pushed up the cable and into the head of the speedo/tach causing the first worm oylite bushing to fail.
My advice is to be smart and either pull the cable or replace the cable. The cost of the cable is pennies compared to the cost of the tach/speedometer head repair.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 03-10-2017 at 03:06 PM.
#17
Racer
It's not a handy tool.. I'm sorry to disagree. To me it's a "gimmick" tool that will cause your tach or speedo to premature failure and should never be sold. It will in the long run cause more issues than it fixes.
It may solve your cable noise or issue but in the long run you'll damage your speedo/tachometer head which will cost you way more money than the cost to replace or lubricate the cable as per the instructions I posted above which is the factory AC Delco/GM lubrication instructions.
You would not believe the number of speedo/tach heads that come in here packed full of grease that are worn completely out. The grease gets in the head and because the first worm is magnetic it will attract lint and other debris from inside your car. This in turn sticks to the grease and can cause premature failure.
The worst thing about this is the first worm and magnet bushing (where the grease ends up) will fail rapidly from this grease being present. You guys need to keep in mind that the cable is reverse wound and it will pull any grease you apply to the cable upwards... That thing says you can use regular grease in it and you can't! NEVER ever ever ever use regular grease! Regular grease will be pushed up the cable and into the head of the speedo/tach causing the first worm oylite bushing to fail.
My advice is to be smart and either pull the cable or replace the cable. The cost of the cable is pennies compared to the cost of the tach/speedometer head repair.
Willcox
It may solve your cable noise or issue but in the long run you'll damage your speedo/tachometer head which will cost you way more money than the cost to replace or lubricate the cable as per the instructions I posted above which is the factory AC Delco/GM lubrication instructions.
You would not believe the number of speedo/tach heads that come in here packed full of grease that are worn completely out. The grease gets in the head and because the first worm is magnetic it will attract lint and other debris from inside your car. This in turn sticks to the grease and can cause premature failure.
The worst thing about this is the first worm and magnet bushing (where the grease ends up) will fail rapidly from this grease being present. You guys need to keep in mind that the cable is reverse wound and it will pull any grease you apply to the cable upwards... That thing says you can use regular grease in it and you can't! NEVER ever ever ever use regular grease! Regular grease will be pushed up the cable and into the head of the speedo/tach causing the first worm oylite bushing to fail.
My advice is to be smart and either pull the cable or replace the cable. The cost of the cable is pennies compared to the cost of the tach/speedometer head repair.
Willcox
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