Help wiring new hi-torq starter w/relay
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Help wiring new hi-torq starter w/relay
I just purchased a new CVR 5323R starter from Summit and my old stock starter has 3 terminals on solenoid (red at !0:00/yellow at 12:00/black at 2:00) yellow is attached with the 12volt lug. Then a green that attaches on end plate of starter.
New starter only has large lug(12v and yellow I assume) and a black screw and the plug for the relay. I have 4 connections on old and only 3 on the new.
Can someone tell specifically how to wire this please? Summit couldn't tell me and CVR is closed through Easter.
Thank you Jim
New starter only has large lug(12v and yellow I assume) and a black screw and the plug for the relay. I have 4 connections on old and only 3 on the new.
Can someone tell specifically how to wire this please? Summit couldn't tell me and CVR is closed through Easter.
Thank you Jim
#2
Drifting
I'm not really understanding your description very well but my guess is your original starter had the terminal for points and your new one does not.
original starter had 4 posts- 2 large and 2 small.
1- large- power in
1- large- power out to starter
1 small- power from ignition to activate solenoid
1- small- r terminal to points (provides 12v to points while cranking)
if you don't have points, you don't need that last terminal anymore. if you do still have points, then you need to buy a kit to pull 12v for the points from the large starter terminal with a diode.
original starter had 4 posts- 2 large and 2 small.
1- large- power in
1- large- power out to starter
1 small- power from ignition to activate solenoid
1- small- r terminal to points (provides 12v to points while cranking)
if you don't have points, you don't need that last terminal anymore. if you do still have points, then you need to buy a kit to pull 12v for the points from the large starter terminal with a diode.
Last edited by Tiger Joe; 04-14-2017 at 01:24 PM.
#3
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Simple connections, with a couple options.
Main battery line goes to the big terminal on the starter (no brainer).
The old S terminal wire goes to the small terminal on the new starter (another no brainer).
Now the options. (IIRC you have the TI ignition.)
#1) Do nothing extra. Unless you regularly try to start your car at twenty below zero you probably don't need the R7 ballast resistor shunt wire (the original wire that hooked to the R terminal). Tape off the old R wire.
#2) Wire a damn good size diode (10A) from the small terminal on the new starter to the old R wire to help the TI ignition module work better at low battery voltage cranking conditions.
Main battery line goes to the big terminal on the starter (no brainer).
The old S terminal wire goes to the small terminal on the new starter (another no brainer).
Now the options. (IIRC you have the TI ignition.)
#1) Do nothing extra. Unless you regularly try to start your car at twenty below zero you probably don't need the R7 ballast resistor shunt wire (the original wire that hooked to the R terminal). Tape off the old R wire.
#2) Wire a damn good size diode (10A) from the small terminal on the new starter to the old R wire to help the TI ignition module work better at low battery voltage cranking conditions.
#4
Melting Slicks
From Powermasters web site.
"What do I do with the wire that went to the "R" terminal on the original starter?
In early original wiring harnesses, the "R" circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is no connection when the starter is at rest, and is +12VDC while cranking.This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting. Cars that do not have a ballast resistor (i.e. HEI, MSD, or other aftermarket ignition systems) should not need this connection. In most cases, this wire can be eliminated. If the engine has no ignition during cranking, then the wiring of the coil is going to require an "R" terminal signal. To accomplish this, connect a 3A/400PIV diode (or Powermaster part # 600 ) in line with the MOTOR SIDE of the solenoid. (Note: This is the terminal on the solenoid which has the cable from inside the starter motor connected to it. It is opposite the BATTERY terminal on the solenoid. The cathode or banded end of the diode goes away from the starter. This allows current to go from the starter to the coil and yet not from the coil to the starter.)"
"What do I do with the wire that went to the "R" terminal on the original starter?
In early original wiring harnesses, the "R" circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is no connection when the starter is at rest, and is +12VDC while cranking.This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting. Cars that do not have a ballast resistor (i.e. HEI, MSD, or other aftermarket ignition systems) should not need this connection. In most cases, this wire can be eliminated. If the engine has no ignition during cranking, then the wiring of the coil is going to require an "R" terminal signal. To accomplish this, connect a 3A/400PIV diode (or Powermaster part # 600 ) in line with the MOTOR SIDE of the solenoid. (Note: This is the terminal on the solenoid which has the cable from inside the starter motor connected to it. It is opposite the BATTERY terminal on the solenoid. The cathode or banded end of the diode goes away from the starter. This allows current to go from the starter to the coil and yet not from the coil to the starter.)"
Last edited by Kid Vette; 04-14-2017 at 03:11 PM.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Do I need to use the wire that is attached to the end of the starter(the one with yellow connector)?
From Powermasters web site.
"What do I do with the wire that went to the "R" terminal on the original starter?
In early original wiring harnesses, the "R" circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is no connection when the starter is at rest, and is +12VDC while cranking.This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting. Cars that do not have a ballast resistor (i.e. HEI, MSD, or other aftermarket ignition systems) should not need this connection. In most cases, this wire can be eliminated. If the engine has no ignition during cranking, then the wiring of the coil is going to require an "R" terminal signal. To accomplish this, connect a 3A/400PIV diode (or Powermaster part # 600 ) in line with the MOTOR SIDE of the solenoid. (Note: This is the terminal on the solenoid which has the cable from inside the starter motor connected to it. It is opposite the BATTERY terminal on the solenoid. The cathode or banded end of the diode goes away from the starter. This allows current to go from the starter to the coil and yet not from the coil to the starter.)"
"What do I do with the wire that went to the "R" terminal on the original starter?
In early original wiring harnesses, the "R" circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is no connection when the starter is at rest, and is +12VDC while cranking.This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting. Cars that do not have a ballast resistor (i.e. HEI, MSD, or other aftermarket ignition systems) should not need this connection. In most cases, this wire can be eliminated. If the engine has no ignition during cranking, then the wiring of the coil is going to require an "R" terminal signal. To accomplish this, connect a 3A/400PIV diode (or Powermaster part # 600 ) in line with the MOTOR SIDE of the solenoid. (Note: This is the terminal on the solenoid which has the cable from inside the starter motor connected to it. It is opposite the BATTERY terminal on the solenoid. The cathode or banded end of the diode goes away from the starter. This allows current to go from the starter to the coil and yet not from the coil to the starter.)"
#6
Melting Slicks
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Tiger Joe
Not sure it matters but I have the original TI ignition. I assume I still hook the relay lead to that.
Not sure it matters but I have the original TI ignition. I assume I still hook the relay lead to that.
I'm not really understanding your description very well but my guess is your original starter had the terminal for points and your new one does not.
original starter had 4 posts- 2 large and 2 small.
1- large- power in
1- large- power out to starter
1 small- power from ignition to activate solenoid
1- small- r terminal to points (provides 12v to points while cranking)
if you don't have points, you don't need that last terminal anymore. if you do still have points, then you need to buy a kit to pull 12v for the points from the large starter terminal with a diode.
original starter had 4 posts- 2 large and 2 small.
1- large- power in
1- large- power out to starter
1 small- power from ignition to activate solenoid
1- small- r terminal to points (provides 12v to points while cranking)
if you don't have points, you don't need that last terminal anymore. if you do still have points, then you need to buy a kit to pull 12v for the points from the large starter terminal with a diode.
#11
That part number shows as having the ignition contact. Should be a direct swap. Can you post a pic of the terminals?
#12
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I just purchased a new CVR 5323R starter from Summit and my old stock starter has 3 terminals on solenoid (red at !0:00/yellow at 12:00/black at 2:00) yellow is attached with the 12volt lug. Then a green that attaches on end plate of starter.
New starter only has large lug(12v and yellow I assume) and a black screw and the plug for the relay. I have 4 connections on old and only 3 on the new.
Can someone tell specifically how to wire this please? Summit couldn't tell me and CVR is closed through Easter.
Thank you Jim
New starter only has large lug(12v and yellow I assume) and a black screw and the plug for the relay. I have 4 connections on old and only 3 on the new.
Can someone tell specifically how to wire this please? Summit couldn't tell me and CVR is closed through Easter.
Thank you Jim
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
Update..
New starters installed.
Attached 12v check
Attached S terminal check
Attached R relay to White wire check
Reattached small ground from old starter to block check
Started car-fired right up and instantly dies/did this 3 times..
Totally confused/raised car again and disconnected the R to R wire.
Started right up and ran perfectly.
Question:
If I used an R wire on old starter (I have TI ignition BTW) why wouldn't I assume I'd need one for new starter. Guess I didn't need to spend the extra $$ for the relay..
All is good, Thank you all very much,
Jim
New starters installed.
Attached 12v check
Attached S terminal check
Attached R relay to White wire check
Reattached small ground from old starter to block check
Started car-fired right up and instantly dies/did this 3 times..
Totally confused/raised car again and disconnected the R to R wire.
Started right up and ran perfectly.
Question:
If I used an R wire on old starter (I have TI ignition BTW) why wouldn't I assume I'd need one for new starter. Guess I didn't need to spend the extra $$ for the relay..
All is good, Thank you all very much,
Jim