Wire short somewhere ????
04-30-2017, 03:58 PM
#61
Racer
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04-30-2017, 04:35 PM
#62
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Hi Mike,
I found it…..
I just encountered the same problem, just 2 weeks before national judging. After getting over the panic, I set to work and found a creative way to repair.
As stated in a previous post, I removed the rear wheel and the access panel in the wheel well. I removed the wires from the switch and pulled them out through the second hole in the body (at access opening). I took a bezel nut (the large dia, thin nut that holds your radio stems into the guage cluster) and reworked the threads with a 3/8" X 24 tap. I then took a 4" long, 3/8" X 24 bolt and after wiping grease on the threads, I inserted it in through the hole in the door jamb. Before pushing the bolt in through the hole, I ran a second nut all the way up the threads for later use. I pushed the bolt through the second hole and after carefully applying JB Weld to the outer face of the bezel nut, I started the bezel nut onto the end of the grease-covered bolt. I pulled the bolt back out, causing the JB Weld to contact the back side of the fiberglass jamb, where the threaded mounting bracket had been. I ran the jam nut down to the now tape-covered jam (tape was applied to protect the painted jamb surface). This, of course, clamped the bezel nut in place while the epoxy set up. During the cure time, I occasionally turned the greased bolt to ensure that the bolt didnt end up glued to the bezel nut.
Make sense so far?
After I was certain that the epoxy had fully cured, I removed the bolt and saw that the bezel nut was securely (abeit differently than originally designed) to the back side of the door jamb. From the outside, the threads in the bezel nut look just like the bracket that had once been there. I re-assembled the wiring to the switch and with blue loctite, re-threaded the switch into adjustment. All worked perfectly and the fix was done.
Whew!! Another catastrophe averted. Got it all done and the fix left no scars. Judging went well. The switch looks exact and works perfectly!
BTW, I decided to use a bezel nut because it has more surface area for JB Weld application.
Maybe this will work for you too?
Regards,
Alan
I found it…..
I just encountered the same problem, just 2 weeks before national judging. After getting over the panic, I set to work and found a creative way to repair.
As stated in a previous post, I removed the rear wheel and the access panel in the wheel well. I removed the wires from the switch and pulled them out through the second hole in the body (at access opening). I took a bezel nut (the large dia, thin nut that holds your radio stems into the guage cluster) and reworked the threads with a 3/8" X 24 tap. I then took a 4" long, 3/8" X 24 bolt and after wiping grease on the threads, I inserted it in through the hole in the door jamb. Before pushing the bolt in through the hole, I ran a second nut all the way up the threads for later use. I pushed the bolt through the second hole and after carefully applying JB Weld to the outer face of the bezel nut, I started the bezel nut onto the end of the grease-covered bolt. I pulled the bolt back out, causing the JB Weld to contact the back side of the fiberglass jamb, where the threaded mounting bracket had been. I ran the jam nut down to the now tape-covered jam (tape was applied to protect the painted jamb surface). This, of course, clamped the bezel nut in place while the epoxy set up. During the cure time, I occasionally turned the greased bolt to ensure that the bolt didnt end up glued to the bezel nut.
Make sense so far?
After I was certain that the epoxy had fully cured, I removed the bolt and saw that the bezel nut was securely (abeit differently than originally designed) to the back side of the door jamb. From the outside, the threads in the bezel nut look just like the bracket that had once been there. I re-assembled the wiring to the switch and with blue loctite, re-threaded the switch into adjustment. All worked perfectly and the fix was done.
Whew!! Another catastrophe averted. Got it all done and the fix left no scars. Judging went well. The switch looks exact and works perfectly!
BTW, I decided to use a bezel nut because it has more surface area for JB Weld application.
Maybe this will work for you too?
Regards,
Alan
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MikesRed68 (04-30-2017)
04-30-2017, 05:30 PM
#63
Racer
Thread Starter
Hi Mike,
I found it…..
I just encountered the same problem, just 2 weeks before national judging. After getting over the panic, I set to work and found a creative way to repair.
As stated in a previous post, I removed the rear wheel and the access panel in the wheel well. I removed the wires from the switch and pulled them out through the second hole in the body (at access opening). I took a bezel nut (the large dia, thin nut that holds your radio stems into the guage cluster) and reworked the threads with a 3/8" X 24 tap. I then took a 4" long, 3/8" X 24 bolt and after wiping grease on the threads, I inserted it in through the hole in the door jamb. Before pushing the bolt in through the hole, I ran a second nut all the way up the threads for later use. I pushed the bolt through the second hole and after carefully applying JB Weld to the outer face of the bezel nut, I started the bezel nut onto the end of the grease-covered bolt. I pulled the bolt back out, causing the JB Weld to contact the back side of the fiberglass jamb, where the threaded mounting bracket had been. I ran the jam nut down to the now tape-covered jam (tape was applied to protect the painted jamb surface). This, of course, clamped the bezel nut in place while the epoxy set up. During the cure time, I occasionally turned the greased bolt to ensure that the bolt didnt end up glued to the bezel nut.
Make sense so far?
After I was certain that the epoxy had fully cured, I removed the bolt and saw that the bezel nut was securely (abeit differently than originally designed) to the back side of the door jamb. From the outside, the threads in the bezel nut look just like the bracket that had once been there. I re-assembled the wiring to the switch and with blue loctite, re-threaded the switch into adjustment. All worked perfectly and the fix was done.
Whew!! Another catastrophe averted. Got it all done and the fix left no scars. Judging went well. The switch looks exact and works perfectly!
BTW, I decided to use a bezel nut because it has more surface area for JB Weld application.
Maybe this will work for you too?
Regards,
Alan
I found it…..
I just encountered the same problem, just 2 weeks before national judging. After getting over the panic, I set to work and found a creative way to repair.
As stated in a previous post, I removed the rear wheel and the access panel in the wheel well. I removed the wires from the switch and pulled them out through the second hole in the body (at access opening). I took a bezel nut (the large dia, thin nut that holds your radio stems into the guage cluster) and reworked the threads with a 3/8" X 24 tap. I then took a 4" long, 3/8" X 24 bolt and after wiping grease on the threads, I inserted it in through the hole in the door jamb. Before pushing the bolt in through the hole, I ran a second nut all the way up the threads for later use. I pushed the bolt through the second hole and after carefully applying JB Weld to the outer face of the bezel nut, I started the bezel nut onto the end of the grease-covered bolt. I pulled the bolt back out, causing the JB Weld to contact the back side of the fiberglass jamb, where the threaded mounting bracket had been. I ran the jam nut down to the now tape-covered jam (tape was applied to protect the painted jamb surface). This, of course, clamped the bezel nut in place while the epoxy set up. During the cure time, I occasionally turned the greased bolt to ensure that the bolt didnt end up glued to the bezel nut.
Make sense so far?
After I was certain that the epoxy had fully cured, I removed the bolt and saw that the bezel nut was securely (abeit differently than originally designed) to the back side of the door jamb. From the outside, the threads in the bezel nut look just like the bracket that had once been there. I re-assembled the wiring to the switch and with blue loctite, re-threaded the switch into adjustment. All worked perfectly and the fix was done.
Whew!! Another catastrophe averted. Got it all done and the fix left no scars. Judging went well. The switch looks exact and works perfectly!
BTW, I decided to use a bezel nut because it has more surface area for JB Weld application.
Maybe this will work for you too?
Regards,
Alan
04-30-2017, 05:53 PM
#64
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Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi Mike,
Don Lowe has a pretty terrific 72 convertible…. it's a National Top Flight winner!
His idea really is ingenious!!!
Regards,
Alan
Don Lowe has a pretty terrific 72 convertible…. it's a National Top Flight winner!
His idea really is ingenious!!!
Regards,
Alan
04-30-2017, 07:21 PM
#66
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Hi Mike,
Here's a picture of Don's from 2011 on the Judging Floor in Novi Michigan.
It really IS is this nice looking.
Hopefully he'll be along and add some more!
Regards,
Alan
Here's a picture of Don's from 2011 on the Judging Floor in Novi Michigan.
It really IS is this nice looking.
Hopefully he'll be along and add some more!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 04-30-2017 at 07:21 PM.
04-30-2017, 09:07 PM
#67
Le Mans Master
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Location: Fernandina Beach FL
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Hi RR..My friend just left . We were out side trying to pinpoint the short/ drain from battery. Then he checked the neg battery term with it disconnected from the battery. Still had power on neg batt. Disconnected the ground from the alternator , same as above , still had power on neg batt. Checked the wiper over ride , wiper door , and head lamps over ride. They all work as they should. Also there is an orange wire hanging under dash that he does not know where it goes. Cant trace it. Also lighter does not work. He is totally stumped and does not know what else to do or check. Also when he checks the neg battery term his power tester lights up bright and he says its a good power loss in system and thats why the battery is draining so fast. TOTALLY STUMPED .
Disconnecting the ground from the alternator will do/tell nothing- unless the alt's case is not touching any metal...
You have only a few things that are directly connected to the battery and could be a constant draw-
-Alternator- at which you would disconnect the +terminal AND the plug-
-Pull the fuses for the "CLK LTR" -"TAIL"-"STOP"-all on the lower left side- these circuits ALL use orange wire- which means they can albeit fused - start a fire or at least let out a bunch of smoke...you need to check that loose orange wire and see if its hot...AT the least- wrap some electrical tape around it. Not to mentuion your cigarette lighter is power by an orange wire...
-Horn relay- at which you would disconnect the 3 pin connector- wires are pink/black-black-green (key/horn button/horn)- that will keep the coil wire from pulling current...
Last are the ignition switch and the headlight switch- which are directly connected to the battery-
These are the things you NEED to TEST with a AMMETER!!!
Last edited by Richard454; 04-30-2017 at 09:08 PM.
05-01-2017, 10:34 PM
#68
Burning Brakes
Mike and I spoke tonight. I explained my fix from 2011 in detail.
Since my repair project, one of the Corvette vendors has come out with a repair bracket that works well if rivets are to be replaced. Some cobbling my need to be done to fit the bracket thru the inner access hole if inserting from behind. If original rivets are in place, the bracket will need to be glued to install and the bracket will either cut down some more or the rivet holes in the bracket will need to be enlarged to fit over the rivets.
Good luck Mike. Call me again if questions, etc
Regards,
Don
Since my repair project, one of the Corvette vendors has come out with a repair bracket that works well if rivets are to be replaced. Some cobbling my need to be done to fit the bracket thru the inner access hole if inserting from behind. If original rivets are in place, the bracket will need to be glued to install and the bracket will either cut down some more or the rivet holes in the bracket will need to be enlarged to fit over the rivets.
Good luck Mike. Call me again if questions, etc
Regards,
Don
05-02-2017, 07:20 AM
#69
Racer
Thread Starter
Mike and I spoke tonight. I explained my fix from 2011 in detail.
Since my repair project, one of the Corvette vendors has come out with a repair bracket that works well if rivets are to be replaced. Some cobbling my need to be done to fit the bracket thru the inner access hole if inserting from behind. If original rivets are in place, the bracket will need to be glued to install and the bracket will either cut down some more or the rivet holes in the bracket will need to be enlarged to fit over the rivets.
Good luck Mike. Call me again if questions, etc
Regards,
Don
Since my repair project, one of the Corvette vendors has come out with a repair bracket that works well if rivets are to be replaced. Some cobbling my need to be done to fit the bracket thru the inner access hole if inserting from behind. If original rivets are in place, the bracket will need to be glued to install and the bracket will either cut down some more or the rivet holes in the bracket will need to be enlarged to fit over the rivets.
Good luck Mike. Call me again if questions, etc
Regards,
Don
05-02-2017, 08:32 AM
#71
Racer
Thread Starter
05-23-2017, 09:25 PM
#73
Racer
Thread Starter
A friend of mine was trying to figure this battery drain and he observed the following. 1. With the key out of the ignition and everything is turned off in car. 2 .. Horn relay clicks when u touch the when u touch the negative battery cable to the post. Is this the current draw that could be draining the battery when the battery is connected?
05-23-2017, 11:48 PM
#74
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Fernandina Beach FL
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A friend of mine was trying to figure this battery drain and he observed the following. 1. With the key out of the ignition and everything is turned off in car. 2 .. Horn relay clicks when u touch the when u touch the negative battery cable to the post. Is this the current draw that could be draining the battery when the battery is connected?
Read post #18
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594593295
And post #67
-Horn relay- at which you would disconnect the 3 pin connector- wires are pink/black-black-green (key/horn button/horn)- that will keep the coil wire from pulling current...
05-24-2017, 02:44 AM
#75
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes...
Read post #18
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594593295
And post #67
-Horn relay- at which you would disconnect the 3 pin connector- wires are pink/black-black-green (key/horn button/horn)- that will keep the coil wire from pulling current...
Read post #18
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594593295
And post #67
-Horn relay- at which you would disconnect the 3 pin connector- wires are pink/black-black-green (key/horn button/horn)- that will keep the coil wire from pulling current...
Last edited by MikesRed68; 05-24-2017 at 02:50 AM.
05-24-2017, 07:51 AM
#77
Hi, looking at the first pic of the wires coming from the horn relay shows one that's heat stress. Would trace that wire to make sure it did not fuse on to another wire that's causing your short problem.
05-24-2017, 09:22 AM
#79
Racer
Thread Starter
05-24-2017, 09:25 AM
#80
Racer
Thread Starter