1975 Vintage Air Install Question
#1
1975 Vintage Air Install Question
Been waiting over a day for a response from vintage air on this question. Odd because up to now (early in the install) they have been really responsive.
Anyway, the hardline that exits the drier is where my question is. It seems to me the only route to the engine bay from the drier for that line is to run it along the radiator support up and over the top of the radiator. It seems to line up but I have concern about that line getting hit when the hood is closes??
Seems like you need to cut some of the insulation on the top radiator suport to make room for the line to fit. See photo - the top line that is resting on the insulation is what I'm talking about.
Is this correct?
Thanks,
Len
Anyway, the hardline that exits the drier is where my question is. It seems to me the only route to the engine bay from the drier for that line is to run it along the radiator support up and over the top of the radiator. It seems to line up but I have concern about that line getting hit when the hood is closes??
Seems like you need to cut some of the insulation on the top radiator suport to make room for the line to fit. See photo - the top line that is resting on the insulation is what I'm talking about.
Is this correct?
Thanks,
Len
#2
Melting Slicks
Can not say on a 75.
Can not say on a 75, but on a 68, both lines run on the side of the radiator support. On an a/c car, you have a recess in the radiator support bracket/fiberglass inner fender to run the hard lines through. On a non a/c car, you have to cut the fiberglass to create a "hole" in the fiberglass inner fender to run the hard lines on the side of the radiator support.
Your VA instructions should cover this I think. Agree, I would not run the hard lines on top of the radiator.
Good luck and hope this might help.
BTW, I would check your 75 AIM under the a/c option pages and see how the factory ran the a/c hard lines. I thinking there is a dwg showing this routing outlined above.
Your VA instructions should cover this I think. Agree, I would not run the hard lines on top of the radiator.
Good luck and hope this might help.
BTW, I would check your 75 AIM under the a/c option pages and see how the factory ran the a/c hard lines. I thinking there is a dwg showing this routing outlined above.
Last edited by 20mercury; 05-10-2017 at 10:49 AM.
#3
Can not say on a 75, but on a 68, both lines run on the side of the radiator support. On an a/c car, you have a recess in the radiator support bracket/fiberglass inner fender to run the hard lines through. On a non a/c car, you have to cut the fiberglass to create a "hole" in the fiberglass inner fender to run the hard lines on the side of the radiator support.
Your VA instructions should cover this I think. Agree, I would not run the hard lines on top of the radiator.
Good luck and hope this might help.
BTW, I would check your 75 AIM under the a/c option pages and see how the factory ran the a/c hard lines. I thinking there is a dwg showing this routing outlined above.
Your VA instructions should cover this I think. Agree, I would not run the hard lines on top of the radiator.
Good luck and hope this might help.
BTW, I would check your 75 AIM under the a/c option pages and see how the factory ran the a/c hard lines. I thinking there is a dwg showing this routing outlined above.
BUT the drier line and how it is bent (formed) there just is no way to run it in that same opening.
Checking AIM now.
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20mercury (05-10-2017)
#5
VA said they are working on it... I guess that means they're trying to figure it out themselves.
I couldn't tell much from AIM... can't tell if the drier was near the condenser or on the other side of the radiator.
I couldn't tell much from AIM... can't tell if the drier was near the condenser or on the other side of the radiator.
#6
I removed the condenser, looked things over and notice where the lines are supposed to go. There is a very small opening midway down the radiator side. I totally missed it.
Maybe because I didn't remove the hood (as STRONGLY suggested). It can be done with the hood on, but for me putting the lines in place FIRST makes it easier (again with the hood on).
Anyway, onward through the fog as they say!
I'll sure it all up tomorrow and post some pictures of where the lines should exit.
Len
Maybe because I didn't remove the hood (as STRONGLY suggested). It can be done with the hood on, but for me putting the lines in place FIRST makes it easier (again with the hood on).
Anyway, onward through the fog as they say!
I'll sure it all up tomorrow and post some pictures of where the lines should exit.
Len
#8
Melting Slicks
Great and sounds like forward movement!
Great and sounds like forward movement! Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
IMHO, suggest you try taking the hood off, just make sure to mark the hinge locations (I use red spray paint, ha! and clean it off or paint over with black when hood is back on and the job is complete). And make it a 2 person job. Unbelievable how much working space it opens up. And like everything else, once you remove the hood a couple of times, it is a piece of cake!
IMHO, suggest you try taking the hood off, just make sure to mark the hinge locations (I use red spray paint, ha! and clean it off or paint over with black when hood is back on and the job is complete). And make it a 2 person job. Unbelievable how much working space it opens up. And like everything else, once you remove the hood a couple of times, it is a piece of cake!
#9
Finally
I posted a thread on how I managed to install the condenser without removing the hood. Would I do it again? Hell no....
Anyway, the trick that worked best for me was to position the hard lines in place BEFORE putting the condenser and its brackets in place.
Picture of how the lines exit - when in the correct postion:
Anyway, the trick that worked best for me was to position the hard lines in place BEFORE putting the condenser and its brackets in place.
Picture of how the lines exit - when in the correct postion:
#11
Looking forward to more bruises - for sure.
#12
Le Mans Master
Keep the Band-Aids handy. I replaced the dash wiring harness. IT was a bloodbath. And I had the whole dash out.
#14
Melting Slicks
You can do it!
You can do it!
Foul words and as you say bull headed cool innovative persistence gets all C3 jobs completed!
(plus a side benefit, the neighbor's kids learn some words which will serve them well in adult life later, LOL's!!)
Foul words and as you say bull headed cool innovative persistence gets all C3 jobs completed!
(plus a side benefit, the neighbor's kids learn some words which will serve them well in adult life later, LOL's!!)