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Yes and no. There are CARB approved heads, cams, intakes, even fuel injection systems approved for this year.
Is it a PITA? Yup.
Can you also increase the compression? I think that would actually decrease pollution output. Also, how about headers and dual cats? If it has cats, I would think it would still pass smog, if the engine is in good tune. May even burn cleaner?
Last edited by Richard Daugird; 05-22-2017 at 01:36 PM.
I know we all have our own methods when working on our own cars. In my case.,,it is how i work on customers Corvettes.
I DID LIKE the results of your emission test.
Not knowing any history on the car....I would be suspect on the quality of the oil and see if an oil change would help. I like a specific type of oil and you can use what you wish so there is no debate here on what others may think.
Then and only them I would get into the engine and see if a valve adjustment is going to do anything at all.
DUB
Did the valve adjustment and it got rid of the click at idle, Turning an engine with a breaker bar will break you down. Took it for a drive after but when I would accelerate I would here it again, BLAP BLAP BLAP. I started creeping around on the internet and found it may be caused by an exhaust leak. Then I started researching exhaust leaks and having to remove/replace the exhaust manifold. Then I saw the stories of people breaking off manifold bolts while trying to change them.
Fearing the worst I was watching a video on how to chase down an exhaust leak from Eric The Car Guy, he helps quite a bit while working on my wife's Honda and in his video, "Tracking Down Hard to Find Exhaust Leaks" the leak was caused buy a loose bolt(s). So I went out this morning just to check the bolts. I reached my hand down on cylinder #8 exhaust bolts where I narrowed the sound down to and turned them by hand, literally. I was like "i'll be dammed" ran and got my ratchet and tightened them down. Hoped in the car for a spin around the block and finally got to hear what I bought the car for, the growl of a 350.
Amazing that it was a $0 fix to something I have been trying to track down since I got the car. So stoked. To Celebrate I ordered some Flowmaster 40 Series Mufflers.......
Can you also increase the compression? I think that would actually decrease pollution output. Also, how about headers and dual cats? If it has cats, I would think it would still pass smog, if the engine is in good tune. May even burn cleaner?
Will have to check, last time I checked the regs I don't think I can touch anything from the exhaust manifold to the cats unless it was offered as an option on a corvette of the same year when it was new. So I think the only two legal setups were the L48 and L82, unless corvette offered some other options for that year. Ford was actually smart during these years by offering options they would never build, they still do it today.
The smog checks are every two years so I can run anything in between as long as I want to revert it back every two years for testing.
Will have to check, last time I checked the regs I don't think I can touch anything from the exhaust manifold to the cats unless it was offered as an option on a corvette of the same year when it was new. So I think the only two legal setups were the L48 and L82, unless corvette offered some other options for that year. Ford was actually smart during these years by offering options they would never build, they still do it today.
The smog checks are every two years so I can run anything in between as long as I want to revert it back every two years for testing.
You can make changes or modifications, but the parts have to be CARB (California Air Resources Board) approved.
There are heads, manifolds, headers, air filters, high flow cats, even EFI that are approved. Also, you could upgrade to a hydraulic roller cam with mild specs without any issues, because it's internal and not seen. Just keep the duration and lobe separation similar to the L82 cam or other CARB approved flat tappet cams.
Also, Summit racing often identifies products that are CARB approved and lists the EO #, such as on the p/n 2900 MSD Atomic EFI. You'll see it when you scroll down.
So you do have options that will keep you from getting in too much trouble with the smog police.
As for your original post regarding what direction to take, my suggestion is to make sure that it's a safe, stable vehicle to drive. Then you can look at making changes or upgrades.
This means checking the brakes, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.
On the steering, check the rag joint that connects the steering shaft to the box and adjust the lash in the box.
Out back, check the play in the rear wheel bearings, check the u-joints, and inspect the bushings in the strut rods.
After everything has been verified to be in good shape, then I would get it in for an alignment.
Once all that's been checked, you'll have a car that you know is safe to drive. That's when I'd move on to the powertrain and take care of the ticking and any leaks.
From there, you can just drive an enjoy it or you can go about modifying it. Either way, I'd make sure that the suspension & brakes are checked out first.
Good luck with your project.
I'd take it in little steps, so that you can keep driving and enjoying the car in between, rather than trying to do everything at once and ending up with a languishing project.
Grats on the purchase, you'll have a blast with it regardless of any bad you find, and you will find bad.
That rusty lower bolt behind the kick panel, to me it sure looks like water got down there over time, I would definitely check for water getting through, especially around the windshield area.
If you want something easy-ish to do, my recommendation is to not be intimidated with most of the interior - everything except the dash is really simple, if time consuming. Redoing the seats, carpet, seat belts and center console was a blast and really let me get to know the car at a whole 'nother level.
Grats on the purchase, you'll have a blast with it regardless of any bad you find, and you will find bad.
That rusty lower bolt behind the kick panel, to me it sure looks like water got down there over time, I would definitely check for water getting through, especially around the windshield area.
If you want something easy-ish to do, my recommendation is to not be intimidated with most of the interior - everything except the dash is really simple, if time consuming. Redoing the seats, carpet, seat belts and center console was a blast and really let me get to know the car at a whole 'nother level.
Have fun with it!
Yea, going to move to the interior but the weather stripping is shot, just got my weather strip kit delivered today and that is my next project. Not going to spend any $$ on the interior till I have it sealed. I did rebuild my GM window switches today, they work like charm now.
Picked up a crazy deal on some 17" American Racing Hopster Wheels. 17x8 (4.0 Backspace) and 17x9.5 (4.75 Backspace) Bolted right on to the existing stock suspension with no rubbing and didn't have to relocate the brake line. I like the look a lot more now. I bought the spring bolts to lower the back end but have not had a chance to get them installed yet. Still reading up on how to do it.
05-22-2017, 01:34 PM
