JayRay

Hi Guys,

I have always wanted to rebuild a car and a few days ago purchased a 1977 L48 Corvette. My goal for this car is not to build a monster but a classic car that is fun to drive in the California Summers with the T-tops off. I want functionality over looks and high performance. I have been going through the car the last few days checking everything out, driving it, getting to know the quirks so I can find a solid starting point. To be honest I have not driven a car this crappy since my first car. O the memories, I ragged that Buick out. So after going through it and deciding where to start one of the things I noticed was a clicking sound in either one of the cylinders or the distributor, I cant tell which, yet. I have been reading around on the forums and the clicking, if coming from a valve cover is probably a lifter, valve spring, or rocker. I have the money to spend to pay someone to do everything but if I wanted to do that I would of just bought a new corvette with a warranty.

I also noticed when driving the car that it seems hard to accelerate but once I am up to speed that it seems to hold well and fall into stride. I am thinking that the acceleration might be a by product of the clicking (lifter, valve spring, rocker)

I am trying to plot the best course of action to take and first steps, given I have spent $0 so far except for the price of the car.

I always replace the spark plugs and and wires when I have bought used cars in the past so I am thinking buy the new spark plugs and a compression tester as a first purchase. From what I gathered from youtube the compression test will let me know if I need to be shopping for new interior or an engine stand and a block. Given that this car is newer than 1975 I am restrained by California Emission Laws so am only allowed to get it back to original performance, but not over, with regards to emissions.

Here are the questions I have so Far.
1.Does this sound like a good starting point? (Spark Plugs, Compression Tester)
2.Is there any other testing equipment I should be purchasing to diagnose? (I would rather throw diagnostic equipment at it than throw parts at it, and can use it for future car purchases)
3.What tools should I be purchasing? (I was a machinist for many years, long ago, so my tool box is full of measuring equipment, not a mechanic tools)
4.For a car that is almost 40 years old and only a few days old for me, where else should I be looking at, testing, checking?

Here are some pictures of the current engine compartment to give you an idea of the starting point I am looking for, Says a lot I know.

mortgageguy

Seems like a simplistic approach to me. Diagnostic tools needed are minimal for this era car. Need lots of sae sockets, a swivel socket ( spark plugs can be hard to get to) extensions for sockets, high quality jack stands, a good quality low profile floor jack and ramps. Get it running good, drive it, and she'll tell you what needs to be done. By the end of the summer, mine has made a list of things to do for the winter. Good luck.

NewbVetteGuy

If you can't put new heads on it in California, then clean it up, resell it, and buy a 75.

You were two model years away from being able to do whatever you wanted to it? That sounds so painful...


Adam

SH-60B

A timing light. And use it first to verify timing and advance curve before going further.

raydog9379

First things first... did you read the sticky about 10 things before buying a C3? If not, go read it.

Secondly, unscrew the kick panels on the drivers and passengers foot wells on each side. Take some pictures of the area with the big bolt and the surrounding on the inside front/back. You're checking for rust. You'll hear the term birdcage rust... this is starting point to look for rust here. There was a post a few weeks ago about this, and some examples of what you do/don't want to see. This will tell you whether you will dump a ton of $ in this car or dump it. If rust is minimal on frame and in these areas, then YEAH! If not, hope you like tearing the whole car apart....and I mean whole car apart.

Do this before spending any addt'l $ on the car.

raydog9379

I could be wrong, but also noticed a couple things.

1) Has this car passed emissions in CA recently? I have a 78 which might be a little different, but I just replaced all the vacuum hoses on my car and am seeing some hoses missing. I also don't see the heat riser valve with the vacuum switch off the EFE TVS switch which is probably something that would be caught during an inspection. Also looks like a few hoses coming off the vacuum canister are missing which are key to smog equipt. I replaced all mine because the car was idling horrible and had vacuum leaks everywhere thanks to a previous owner just slicing/dicing hoses and leaving open vacuum everywhere.

2) It looks like someone took out the A/C compressor and jerry rigged the hose routing. If you want A/C back, it isn't cheap. However, beauty of our cars is the t-tops.

blk79nj

Looks like a nice project to me. My approach is a little simpler.

1) make sure it's safe to drive first. Tires, Brakes, suspension are all in good shape. Also, follow the advise about about checking for rust before proceeding too far into the project.

2) Reliability. Since it's running, give it a good tune up. A valve lash adjustment may cure your ticking noise.

3)Cosmetics'. After the above, go for your interior.

As far as testing equipment, a dial back timing light (or access to one) is a good place to start. Another item that helps is a vacuum gauge. I don't think that a compression gauge is necessary, unless you car has a miss that is still there after the tune up.

JayRay

Here are pictures of behind the kick panel. I see the bolt top looks rusted but the surrounding areas seem to look OK to an untrained eye. Any tips to stop the spread?

JayRay

Any Particular Brands you would recommend or are they all pretty much the same? I have never operated one before but watched a video of one being used on youtube.

JayRay

It passed emissions last year and the registration is current, it was the last owners high school daughters car. I went to the DMV today to transfer ownership and it automatically requires a smog test when it transfers owners so I will be at the smog test station in the morning, wish me luck.

In regards to all of the vacuum lines, is there any type of diagram available that shows the routing of all the lines? I ordered a Haynes Manuel hoping it would help me shine some light on what it looked like when it was produced.

I noticed the AC compressor was missing too, and was actually wondering if it would be better to pull out all the remaining AC components or just leave them in. I was on youtube again and watching a new ac install and looks like I would need to replace the entire system anyway.

JayRay

I have the vacuum gauge and timing light added to my shopping list and will get them heading this way.

The seals are shot on the valve covers so when I replace them and the valve covers I will get a good look at the valves and post some pics. I will hunt around on youtube to see if there are any valve lash adjustment videos.

The click is weird, I was driving it today and it seemed to go away after some driving, but then back again on the next start up.....

JayRay

Going to start looking around for this stuff, My current hand tools are a collection of $10 cheesy x-mass gift sets from my brother in law over the years, knuckle breakers.

SH-60B

Looks pretty good in there, even for California. If or when you replace the body mounts and bolts you can paint in the pocket with something like Chassis Saver.

JayRay

Just got back from the smogg station and the car passed! The guy said most cars this age don't pass but this one was well maintained, internally at least. What a relief, now I can start working on that bucket list.

DUB

I am glad that it passed emissions...but can you post ( if you choose to do so) what the max limits are that California allows and what your engine actually did???

What is your oil pressure ( at idle) when you have it at operating temp?? ( approx 200 degrees F)

And then what is the oil pressure whee it is cold and at idle???

DUB

JayRay

Here are the results, it shows Max for California, Average Cars, and my measurements. For the Oil Pressure, my gauge is finicky at best and only seems to kick on when I am going down the highway. Sits on maxed out the rest of the time. I have been reading up on how to replace it or lube it so it will start working all the time.

JayRay

Chomping at the Bit. I have a ton of stuff ordered but nothing arrived yet except for the Jack Stands, Low Profile Jack, and Vacuum Gauge. Going Crazy, If stuff would start arriving I could quit ordering before I throw down on some Thrust II Wheels and BFG Tires. Hopefully tomorrow will be a busy day. I really want to set the valve lash to see if it gets rid of the clicking but waiting on the gaskets, covers, and the tools would be nice........

Jack - Arrived
Jack Stands - Arrived
Vacuum Pump - Arrived
Hand Tools - Shipped
9 Piece Weather Stripping Kit - Shipped
Chrome dist Cover - Shipped
Open Air Cleaner - Shipped
Valve Covers w/ wing Nuts and Hold Downs - Shipped
Pcv Breather - Shipped
Breather - Shipped
Valve Cover Gaskets - Shipped
Timing Chain Cover - Shipped
9" Rear Lowering Bolts - Shipped
Steering Wheel - Shipped
Wiper Compartment Cover - Shipped
Door Springs - Shipped
Suction Gun - Shipped
Fuel Line - Carb to Pump - Shipped
Spark Plugs - Shipped
Oil Filter - Shipped
Spark Plug Wires - Shipped
Wiper Blades - Shipped
Fuel Filter - Shipped
Gas Cap - Shipped
Differential Fluid - Shipped



The Beer is cold though

DUB

I know we all have our own methods when working on our own cars. In my case.,,it is how i work on customers Corvettes.

I DID LIKE the results of your emission test.

Not knowing any history on the car....I would be suspect on the quality of the oil and see if an oil change would help. I like a specific type of oil and you can use what you wish so there is no debate here on what others may think.

Then and only them I would get into the engine and see if a valve adjustment is going to do anything at all.

DUB

Big2Bird

Yes and no. There are CARB approved heads, cams, intakes, even fuel injection systems approved for this year.

Is it a PITA? Yup.

Richard Daugird

This is good advice. These things had less than 200 H.P. and weighed over 3000 lbs.