HELP!!! Power Steering Issue - Can't Drive My Finished Resto!!
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
HELP!!! Power Steering Issue - Can't Drive My Finished Resto!!
Guys,
My 1969 427 390HP frame off is done... sitting and waiting to be driven and I can't figure out this power steering issue. This is super frustrating.
The car drove fine before restoration with all the same major components.
Here's the problem:
The adjustment nut for balancing the PS valve should push the rod on the cylinder OUT when turned CLOCKWISE but mine is reversed. The steering wheel bucks and fights when driving confirming that something is backwards.
What else I've done:
- New hoses
- New seal kit on the Slave Cylinder
- Opened the PS pump but decided not to rebuild it and just painted/re-assembled.
- Full bleed of the PS with car running and not, wheels in the air and on the ground, per GM, and Lonestar, and any other directions I could find (basically all the same).
- Replaced PS control valve with a new one built by Lonestar... same issue as the old one I rebuilt
- Hoses cross coming from the control valve are installed like they are supposed to be (Top on the CV connected to the bottom of the slave cylinder and the Bottom on the CV connected to the top of the slave cylinder).
- Engine belt routing to the PS pump is correct.
- Removed check valve from the PS pump at the high pressure line removed, inspected, and replaced.
- The inlet and outlet hoses from the PS to the control valve are different sizes and only go on one way.
- The hoses to the slave cylinder are exactly as the GM manual and all pictures that I've seen say they should be. The make one cross at the slave cylinder then are parallel over to the slave cylinder.
What the hell is going on?
Help!
Sum.
My 1969 427 390HP frame off is done... sitting and waiting to be driven and I can't figure out this power steering issue. This is super frustrating.
The car drove fine before restoration with all the same major components.
Here's the problem:
The adjustment nut for balancing the PS valve should push the rod on the cylinder OUT when turned CLOCKWISE but mine is reversed. The steering wheel bucks and fights when driving confirming that something is backwards.
What else I've done:
- New hoses
- New seal kit on the Slave Cylinder
- Opened the PS pump but decided not to rebuild it and just painted/re-assembled.
- Full bleed of the PS with car running and not, wheels in the air and on the ground, per GM, and Lonestar, and any other directions I could find (basically all the same).
- Replaced PS control valve with a new one built by Lonestar... same issue as the old one I rebuilt
- Hoses cross coming from the control valve are installed like they are supposed to be (Top on the CV connected to the bottom of the slave cylinder and the Bottom on the CV connected to the top of the slave cylinder).
- Engine belt routing to the PS pump is correct.
- Removed check valve from the PS pump at the high pressure line removed, inspected, and replaced.
- The inlet and outlet hoses from the PS to the control valve are different sizes and only go on one way.
- The hoses to the slave cylinder are exactly as the GM manual and all pictures that I've seen say they should be. The make one cross at the slave cylinder then are parallel over to the slave cylinder.
What the hell is going on?
Help!
Sum.
Last edited by sumcollegekid; 05-17-2017 at 12:31 AM.
#2
#4
#6
Burning Brakes
I don't think this is possible to change, but the hose connections on the slave cylinder are on the 'front' of the cylinder, correct? (looking at the cylinder from the side of the car, the hose connections should be on the left of the rod coming out of the cylinder) If the cylinder was somehow twisted 180 degrees, then the hose connections would be backwards...
Maybe a couple of pictures would help?
#7
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
Received 845 Likes
on
721 Posts
You can't have the hoses backwards or it would power the steering to the stop.
Did you adjust the valve in between the points where the cylinder starts to move?
- run steering to purge air.
- disconnect cylinder.
- turn screw one way until cylinder just starts to move. Mark position.
- turn screw other way until cylinder just starts to move. Mark position.
- adjust the screw centered between the 2 positions found above.
Did you adjust the valve in between the points where the cylinder starts to move?
- run steering to purge air.
- disconnect cylinder.
- turn screw one way until cylinder just starts to move. Mark position.
- turn screw other way until cylinder just starts to move. Mark position.
- adjust the screw centered between the 2 positions found above.
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Here is a video and some photos of the issue. Everyone that I've talked to is clueless as to what could cause this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZne...ature=youtu.be
Properly crossed hoses
Hoses run parallel from valve into the slave cylinder
Inlet and outlet hoses to the control valve are completely different and only connect one way
Hoses coming from the back of the PS pump.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZne...ature=youtu.be
Properly crossed hoses
Hoses run parallel from valve into the slave cylinder
Inlet and outlet hoses to the control valve are completely different and only connect one way
Hoses coming from the back of the PS pump.
Last edited by sumcollegekid; 05-18-2017 at 10:11 PM.
#9
Burning Brakes
Looks like you have it correct.
So check the pump pulley as it may be slipping on the shaft.
have some one turn the steering wheel as you watch the pulley and belt, does it hesitate or stop at some point. Tires on the ground of course.
check the fluid with car running, can you see flow or foaming which is air mixing with fluid.
With steering disconnected from box and front end off the ground you should be able to turn the wheels freely, if not then you have a drag link or ball joint getting tight.
also now that the steering box turns free while you have it disconnected.
So check the pump pulley as it may be slipping on the shaft.
have some one turn the steering wheel as you watch the pulley and belt, does it hesitate or stop at some point. Tires on the ground of course.
check the fluid with car running, can you see flow or foaming which is air mixing with fluid.
With steering disconnected from box and front end off the ground you should be able to turn the wheels freely, if not then you have a drag link or ball joint getting tight.
also now that the steering box turns free while you have it disconnected.
#10
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
Received 845 Likes
on
721 Posts
Start with the cylinder disconnected, the valve adjusted and the wheels on the ground. Try turning the steering. Does the cylinder go the right way to assist the steering or the opposite way? If I get this right, trying to turn right should make the cylinder retract because it should assist by pulling the linkage to the left.
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2000
Location: Saginaw Michigan
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 0
Received 98 Likes
on
81 Posts
You mentioned that you removed the high pressure hose and then you removed discharge fitting from the back of the pump. Are you sure that you replaced the spring #5, flow control valve #6, and the discharge fitting asm #24 in the correct order? Did you orient the flow control valve so that the screen end went into the pump first?
Jim
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; 05-19-2017 at 11:18 AM.