bmans vette

This thread is part of my frame off resto mod project over in the C3 General section.......
As my plans evolved into bigger, more powerful drivetrain, I knew the weak link was going to be the rear end. I had already bought a 4.11 that was supposedly rebuilt and beefed up. Nice fresh paint and new inner axles made it look so nice 5yrs ago.
Many of us have been fooled by shiny new things....right?

So I increased my research here, on other forums and in several books/mags.
I had already bought a new set of Ft Wayne Clutch and Driveshaft 3" half shafts. New is better ....right?
Not necessarily so as the wall thickness of the tubing used in these is LESS than the stock 3" half shafts that came with the 75 Corvette automatic.....imagine that!

Having seen several vendors and several individual operations involved in the rear differential aftermarket, I chose Gary Ramadei. Many of you know Gary from this forum and also from DC forum. He is also on a couple of others. And he does a free lecture/demo at Corvettes at Carlisle every August. Plus he shares his info freely. Great guy all the way round. Hope to meet him in person this year.

Anyway.....after countless emails with questions, texts and late night calls, we decided that his Super 10 would be sufficient for my 383 stroker with a max of 600hp. Also included in this plan is a T56 trans and 12" rear rims with 300mm tire range.

So I started by finding a good useable differential case only as the innards are all going to be new. Found a good deal on ebay. Sent detailed pics to Gary after he told me what to look for first......
Got a new rear cover....the Muskegon HD one. Then we put the shopping list together for Tom's.
1350 based parts including new half shafts.
BTW....I am attaching this to the Van Steel offset rear TA with the coil over conversion and johnnie joint front bearing. QA1 coil overs also.

Gary has a small stockpile of NOS GM posi units that seem to be better than anything coming from outside the country. So I am getting one of those.
The front yoke will be the billet one for a 1350.

So now lets let Gary's pics do the talking....he sends a LOT.......

bmans vette

As you see he closely inspects and dry fits every piece. The vent tube did not pass so a new one will be added.
Btw...he will be adding a drain plug system also...

bmans vette

He has to make the new inner axles fit into the case.

From Gary:
Well I had some time so I decided to start by machining the posi case to accept the new larger 30 spline axles. This is not a precision machine job, I just need to increase the bore in 2 steps. The first step allows the splines to fit into the case, the 2nd step allows the journal area to also slide into the case. The reason is to allow the axles to be pushed in when setting up the axle endplay, they have to go past the cross shaft hole to allow the c-clips to be installed. I had a boring bar with a dull tip but it worked and I polished it inside afterwards, along with the bearing journal OD and RG flange. I will still go back over them when I go to install the RG.




NOTE: All machine work, polishing, and tuning is done BEFORE cyro treating.

GregS_72

Gary did my Super10 as well... trailing arms too. He's great to work with for sure!

bmans vette

Back to the case after sandblasting and then treating it.......

Hi Dennis

So the blasting shop was back logged so I blasted the housing and cover in my cabinet, cost is about the same and I have it done. I cut the ears off so the axles will slide in place installing the c-clips. I have it etching now and will rinse it in 20 minutes. Tomorrow I'll come in and flame dry it to pull out the moisture in the iron, let it cool and apply the POR15, wait until it's tacky and shot my top coat- then let it all harden as one. While I am letting it setup I will get back to the posi work.

SteveG75

Gary did my 12 bolt, trailing arms, and steering box. Well worth the $$$.

bmans vette

Good morning gang.....latest pics and narrative from Gary.
Just love the man's attention to detail and communication with me.

I better get out to the shop or there will not be a frame to mount this on....lol.

From Gary....
So far this morning I have your parts flame dried and cooling. Then I'll POR15 and shoot them. I etched and rinsed them last night. I blew them off and today they looked great, nothing to tell there was moisture in them. Once I put flame to them the moisture came out. This is another little trick I do that others don't but seems to work great.

bmans vette

Here are pics of the case with POR15 applied. Gary topcoats with Seymour Cast Blast spray can while the POR15 is still sticky. I have done that but did 2 coats of POR15..... a little overkill....haha


From Gary
Here is you diff with the POR15 applied. My approach to finish is to make it better then just a quick cheap paint job. So I do the blasting, etching, POR15 and top coat and really think it's better then powder coating a box, diff or arms. Protects a lot better then just paint and doesn't cost anywhere cost to powder coat- which is also chip if hit.

super charged

Looks like my super duper 10 bolt

bmans vette

More pics folks.
Starting with the finished look of the case after spraying with Cast Blast.

bmans vette

From Gary

Hi Dennis

Well I just finished up your posi polishing work. This took me 4 hours and you can see why. This is the best polished vette posi on the market, bar none. Most rebuilders don't even do this work, the ones that claim to sure don't come close to one of these. Now if you plan on doing your others at home you can do it. This is not rocket science by any means, a good head porting kit will work. I have many more tools to use since ALL my diff's come with a posi polished like this. To me it just doesn't make sense not to do it, guys drop 1000's on engines and ignore the diff work needed or go someone who claims to do this and clearly does not. Another thing, get yourself good PPE- a respirator, goggles, and hearing protection. It is not only unsafe not to protect yourself it's just plain stupid and who wants stupid working on a vette?

bmans vette

Couple of pics of the cross bolt and pin area after polishing.
He sets the retaining pin deeper. I'll show you that next.

bmans vette

Back to the posi for some serious millwork.

From Gary

Dennis,

One thing the Eaton cases all had issue with, from '65 to present after market, is the cross shaft bolt depth into the case. I have seen the bolts break and some break out the side of the case. This case is a NOS GM 3 series, now obsolete from GM, that I selected for you but it has the same issue. So I set it up in the Bridgeport, one of my favorite machines- I was Bridgeport rebuilder when I was 18 covering MA and CT. I milled the pad deeper to give additional support to the shaft. I do this on every build as well. When using ARP Ring Gear bolts, you have to countersink the hole, especially on the older posi cases. Again I use ARP on every build because why go stupid to save $30 and use plain fully thread kit bolts?? I guess I would if I wanted to rip you off I could charge you and not tell you but that's not what I'm about and you get all the pictures of your build.

Counter sinking the holes for the ARP bolts first

bmans vette

Detailed pics showing how he mills the pad where the retaining pin goes into and holds the cross bolt. The extra depth prevents failure of the little pin that is the only thing holding the spider gears back.
A little extra insurance...

bmans vette

Forgot to show these pics

76Rat

Coming along nicely. That is really nice of him to send you all the updates as it is being built.

bmans vette

Thanks. That is ONE of the great things about dealing with Gary. The man loves what he does and shares it freely in regards to the info. Most people get a boxed up package that looks a little different but they don't know the details.
And I hope that by showing this, others will appreciate what is involved in doing a precision job.
If I ever sell the car this is going in, I may have to take it out.....and keep it for the next one.

Txs for looking.

Anyone has any questions, feel free to post them up and I'll ask Gary. He is very reachable.

Bman (Dennis)

73racevette

Gary is the best I have found to help with a differential rebuild. He helped me with mine and many to most of the things he does no one else takes the time to do. He is going to get you a great product.

ML67

Gary is the best. He did my steering box 10 yrs ago; rebuilt my differential last year after a severe over-rev on a missed shift; and just this year my trailing arms. His attention to detail and commitment to quality has earned him his well deserved reputation. And a great guy as well. I wouldn't consider anyone else.

super charged

I wouldn't say nobody else takes the time. Hes not the only one.