suprspooky

I finally pulled the trigger and pulled the CE blocked 427 out of my 68 Vert. for a rebuild/upgrade.

Here's the combo: Scat forged rotating assy. for 468CI final displcmnt, AFR 265 Oval Port Hds., Roller Hyd. .620 x 233@50 109LSA, I'm keeping my Rect. port tri-power, and the Hooker super comp side pipe headers, 4spd, 4:11 rears.

Cam grinder predicts 611hp, the dyno shop I'll be taking it to when done (hopefully early July) predicts 585-600hp.

I got the Drag Strip bug last year (14.06@98) and the pathetic top end power lead me to the upgrade, cam lobes were worn 0.030.

What should I be considering for upgrades to Drivetrain (I'm already planning on driveshaft/halfshaft loops) and the car has the BB rear parts.

I'd also like to hear from 4spd/Manual drivers on their specific clutch and tire setup's for the strip, I've read that Bias Slicks are better for a stick car.

76strokervette

A 12 bolt upgrade is your best option if you want your differential to last.
Slicks and a 4 speed equal 10 bolt's days are numbered. Keep us posted on your build.

roscobbc

I'm running a 489 with 570hp/606 ft/lbs through stock M21 and CenterForce dual friction clutch. Rear end is 3.08 - rear rubber is Toyo 285/40/18. Wheelspin is 'your friend' - it has all hung together for several years - I never 'drop' the clutch or burn it out. But I do have what might be an expensive noise now coming from rear end - I hoping its a shot parking brake assy.

Gordonm

If you are planning on drag strip use you need to upgrade from the flywheel to the rear tires. Slicks will eat everything in the driveline. Even street sticky tires will destroy the 4 speed and rear end. With that kind of power you are really rolling the dice. It gets expensive real fast.

I made a bunch of drag strip passes for a few years, probably about 200 or so. Lunched the Muncie twice and it was the bigger countershaft vs the 68 has the small counter shaft. I went through 2 rear ends and upgraded the half shafts before they let go. I was running about 450 HP and was not running slicks.

jb78L-82

If you are planning to hit the drag strip, what others have said about upgrading everything is true..nothing from the OEM is going to take that type of power long, BB or not.

As GordonM stated, even with my 355 SB 450 Gross HP 78 L-82 4 speed with 3.70 gears and ultra high performance sticky street tires, I never pop the clutch from moderate revs and always roll into the throttle. My builder who did the bottom end of the 355 and who is an expert on diffs and tranny's told me that as long as I don't abuse the drivetrain all will be good. Going into my 4th driving season and no issues....

diehrd

I Ditched all them drive shafts when i put in a SBC 427 power level you are shooting for. Final pic IS not the tires I run lol , I run 275/60/15 MT Street Radials.

cv67

dont be disaapointed if you dont make that dyno #
get it running first see how it acts

Most breakages are due to driver being an idiot

Big Block Dave

When my car was stock a 454 and muncie, I had all stock stuff.

Now that my "barely out of the 14's build" is sitting on a stand, I at least upgraded from the flywheel to the trans.

Current motor boasts 546 hp 560 ft lbs tq [EDIT: probably -25 or so HP, as previous owner dynoed with RPM Air Gap], so I added the following:

Ram billet steel flywheel
Mcleod Super Street Pro Clutch
Quicktime Bellhousing
Richmond 5 speed OD rated for 600ft lbs.

Rear is still stock, but solid spicer u-joints.

fishslayer143

Do not get sticky tires with a stock differential and 600 HP .. Wheel spin is Gods way of saving expensive parts