LS1 and 460le into a 1980 C3 Part List
#61
Drifting
Member Since: Nov 2004
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2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
[QUOTE=Zorro O;1595837086]
$485.00 was the price for the gauges and the wiring. The box they are in is a stock 79 gauge housing I modified so it would hold the new gauges and still have all the stock lights. The indicator lights are just a piece of plastic that can be moved around to center, I did that when I installed it in the car. I have also painted the washers black so now they and the bolts disappear.
Cool. I did something similar with autometer gauges but drilled a holes and routed around each of the indicators. I used some lexan for the plate. I really like the fact it kept stock parts in it too.
$485.00 was the price for the gauges and the wiring. The box they are in is a stock 79 gauge housing I modified so it would hold the new gauges and still have all the stock lights. The indicator lights are just a piece of plastic that can be moved around to center, I did that when I installed it in the car. I have also painted the washers black so now they and the bolts disappear.
#63
It has been a while but i have torn down my LS1 and 4l60e
2004 LS1
LS6 intake and TB with 241 heads
3000 high stall
2004 4l60e - was BLACK and fill of grime , i gave it a quick wash minus the tail housing so you can see the difference.
All disassembled
Further cleaning
2004 LS1
LS6 intake and TB with 241 heads
3000 high stall
2004 4l60e - was BLACK and fill of grime , i gave it a quick wash minus the tail housing so you can see the difference.
All disassembled
Further cleaning
Last edited by R6n350GT; 07-21-2018 at 06:56 PM.
#64
Old 305 being taken out
There it goes with TH350
Interior being stripped. I will paint inside with sound deadening and then cover with heat proof material
now time to remove all of this
Getting there
Time to remove all of this
Getting there.. I think ill go with electric headlights..
#65
Now can anyone help out with what i NEED to keep wire wise ?
What can i remove... ??? [/SPOILER]
I will not be keeping
Cruise control unit and wiring loom
Vacuum headlight stuff and lines
Things i need to keep are
Head light and turning signal wires (does anyone make updated LED stuff?)
There are a few wires that were not connected, they are from the 1980 C3 c-4 computer. I think they go to a 02 sensor and some other electronic EGR stuff that i wont be using.
What is the loom coming out of top grommet ? Bottom loom is the cruise
This is in passenger fender near brake booster. It is the security alarm
The black wire should be inside the plug. It is for the windscreen washer squirter motor
What can i remove... ??? [/SPOILER]
I will not be keeping
Cruise control unit and wiring loom
Vacuum headlight stuff and lines
Things i need to keep are
Head light and turning signal wires (does anyone make updated LED stuff?)
There are a few wires that were not connected, they are from the 1980 C3 c-4 computer. I think they go to a 02 sensor and some other electronic EGR stuff that i wont be using.
What is the loom coming out of top grommet ? Bottom loom is the cruise
This is in passenger fender near brake booster. It is the security alarm
The black wire should be inside the plug. It is for the windscreen washer squirter motor
Last edited by R6n350GT; 07-30-2018 at 10:47 PM.
#67
Melting Slicks
On the tach conversion options: there’s a few more: Dakota Digital also makes a digital to spinning tach conversion box that is, imho, superior to the Abbot box. It self calibrates, adjusting for various rear gears and tires sizes via a calibration button and driving exactly 1 mile marked off on a road. It also supports using a gps sensor for calibration and it’s smaller, lighter and quieter than the Abbot box.
You can also have the stock tach sent away for a digital conversion if you want to keep the stock dash look.
Adam
You can also have the stock tach sent away for a digital conversion if you want to keep the stock dash look.
Adam
#68
UPDATES !!!
Engine and Trans both fully rebuilt.
Still needing to get a AC compressor but LSX Innovations bracket looks amazing and was easy to install.
Having some welding done, new captive nut and bracket for the body mount, trans mount bracket, radiator support being redone with new radiator and condenser.
Any tips on what needs to go on before body does ?
P.S excuse the mess in the garage, its all cleaned up since this pic !
4l60e all done. Thanks Dana from probuiltautomatics for helping me get this thing built !
I have done almost everything on this car bar the welding and diff rebuild. Welding i need to learn !
Have a local guy that is helping me out with this. So far doing great work.
I Need a new carpet and trim for the seat as one was never replaced... Any ideas?
With a complete rebuild AC and Heater box with all new seals, painted lizard skin sound deadening on both undercarriage and all inside the cockpit, with 10mm thick self adhesive sound and temp material layered ontop... it should be a quite ride and not hot ! I am doing the doors aswell, pics to come.
Thoughts on doing the bonnet ?
I have also used the original sound deadening for the back too. Not shown but its installed.
Engine and Trans both fully rebuilt.
Still needing to get a AC compressor but LSX Innovations bracket looks amazing and was easy to install.
Having some welding done, new captive nut and bracket for the body mount, trans mount bracket, radiator support being redone with new radiator and condenser.
Any tips on what needs to go on before body does ?
P.S excuse the mess in the garage, its all cleaned up since this pic !
4l60e all done. Thanks Dana from probuiltautomatics for helping me get this thing built !
I have done almost everything on this car bar the welding and diff rebuild. Welding i need to learn !
Have a local guy that is helping me out with this. So far doing great work.
I Need a new carpet and trim for the seat as one was never replaced... Any ideas?
With a complete rebuild AC and Heater box with all new seals, painted lizard skin sound deadening on both undercarriage and all inside the cockpit, with 10mm thick self adhesive sound and temp material layered ontop... it should be a quite ride and not hot ! I am doing the doors aswell, pics to come.
Thoughts on doing the bonnet ?
I have also used the original sound deadening for the back too. Not shown but its installed.
Last edited by R6n350GT; 11-11-2018 at 04:59 PM.
#69
These are the Option 2: Speed Engineering LS Swap Camaro Firebird Headers 1982-92 $289 inc shipping !!!
1 7/8" Primaries, 3" Collectors - Part # 25-1035 from ebay seller Speed-Engineering
DOSEN'T fit with stock steering or borgeson
ONLY steeroids
Runs very close to the oil adapter plate if you are running one for a oil cooler.
New headers fit alot better but still need to be modified to clear the steering box
If you had steeroids you would have no problem
Clears the passenger side easy
Will have trans on soon to take a pic but appears it will clear easy
closer pic of modification needed
Also rebuilding the front steering knuckles
1 7/8" Primaries, 3" Collectors - Part # 25-1035 from ebay seller Speed-Engineering
DOSEN'T fit with stock steering or borgeson
ONLY steeroids
Runs very close to the oil adapter plate if you are running one for a oil cooler.
New headers fit alot better but still need to be modified to clear the steering box
If you had steeroids you would have no problem
Clears the passenger side easy
Will have trans on soon to take a pic but appears it will clear easy
closer pic of modification needed
Also rebuilding the front steering knuckles
Last edited by R6n350GT; 04-07-2019 at 07:33 AM.
#70
Hi,
How low did the c5 headers hang down compared to the LS swap headers?
I have my car set with a low ride hight. As it is now I've scraped my low-profile road race oil pan and short oil filter. If the headers didn't hang down past a stock batwing pan or filter, that would be ideal.
Thanks, Rick
How low did the c5 headers hang down compared to the LS swap headers?
I have my car set with a low ride hight. As it is now I've scraped my low-profile road race oil pan and short oil filter. If the headers didn't hang down past a stock batwing pan or filter, that would be ideal.
Thanks, Rick
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CiroRacing (12-04-2018)
#72
Also I make a frame gusset kit that reinforces the motor mounts, A-arm mounts and front sway bar area, like what is specified in the GM performance article. This would be a good point in your build to add them. Want me to post a pic?
Rick
#74
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: perth western australia
Posts: 3,099
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https://www.duntovmotors.com/Corvett...wer%20Book.pdf
that's the corvette section of the chevy power book. Break out the welder and grinder
that's the corvette section of the chevy power book. Break out the welder and grinder
Last edited by bazza77; 12-05-2018 at 03:50 AM. Reason: im not bill gates with this thing.
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CiroRacing (12-06-2018)
#75
I think the kooks type have short enough primaries that I can cut off the collector and weld in a bend. I have a T56, may be tight but should be able to make it work. I fabbed up my exhaust in under a day on my garage floor with SS mandrel parts. Not show quality but surprisingly minimal bends and good ground clearance.
#76
https://www.duntovmotors.com/Corvett...wer%20Book.pdf
that's the corvette section of the chevy power book. Break out the welder and grinder
that's the corvette section of the chevy power book. Break out the welder and grinder
8 piece Gen II gusset kit. The stock frame engine and lower A-arm mounts are different Left and Right, so each part is unique. Left side parts have a notch.
Parts clamped in place, see sway bar braces at the top.
Sway bar area brace. Excess material is removed to save weight.
Everything welded in place with a MIG. This '68 is a top autocross car with wide tires and an LS2, so braces prevent any stress cracks.
#77
The areas you have strengthened. How many people need to do that and can tell a difference that just drive the car and some hard cornering through the mountains every so often ? Maybe see a race track 1-2x year
#78
LSx swap on left, C5 on the right
This is the LS swap headers
LSx swap on left, C5 on the right. C5 maybe 1-2mm more clearance. C5 possibly on par with the sump LSx swap 1-2mm below
#80
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: perth western australia
Posts: 3,099
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nice looking pieces , I wish I new about them before I did my frame , so much better looking than my home made ones . Also that is some serious shims behind those top A arms !!! Do you have your own plasma cutter table set up ?
Last edited by bazza77; 12-08-2018 at 07:41 PM.