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You need two fittings to make up lines to go to the LS PS pump
1x Aeroflow AF352-06SS Power Steer Fitting 18mm O-Ring Seal To -6an
1x Aeroflow AF351-06S Power Steer Fitting 16mm O-Ring To -6an
On the Power steering pump end you will need
1x Aeroflow AF351-06S Power Steer Fitting 16mm O-Ring To -6an
Hoses Pressure supply -6AN Series 200 hose (teflon) with full flow 90 degree fitting. 30mm length Return 3/8 -6AN 400 series push lock hose with full flow 90 degree fitting. 46mm length
UPDATE: The fitting on the back of the power steering pump sticks out too far and the spark plug ignition lead with metal sleeve wont fit on... So i got a set of Eagle Red leads that dont use metal jackets and it now fits !
So it will look something like this when done. The vent line is 8mm, the supply line ends with a push on straight fitting that goes to the fuel filter
The Top foam i will update with thickness later. CUT out the yellow sections, or straps wont fit on once tank installed. Ask me how i know...
I used a 92mm hole saw and then i needed to dramel a little to open it up more.
I had to buy a larger ID o-ring than the pump came with - dont recall the size but the ID of the bigger o-ring was the same as the OD of the original one.
I drilled holes for recessed bolts and enlarged the head so they sit flush. I was worried the tack welds would melt my plastic lining so used JB weld under the ring also.
How the stock pump sits FYI...
How the VT commodore pump sits. Its 330mm Vs 280mm of the camaro pump. Make sure you get a pump with the filter sock down the bottom. I found out later the rectangle 4 pin plug is better designed that the 4 pin square one. I could not find one in 330mm with filter sock on the bottom so had to stick with square plug. The 1980 to 82 fuel tanks are much deeper so require a taller pump.
Showing the nuts i made, ideally go buy ones with large enough washer to begin with.
Top left pin is Grey wire (Power). Bottom right pin is Black wire (Ground). The other two wires are for the fuel level sensor which you dont use as the stock gauge and the Intelltronix gauge use 90 ohm
Yellow connects to pump Grey wire (Power). Black connects to pump Black wire (Ground).
Shows which way the support beam goes. under the tank.
I ended up replacing all the rubber fuel line with braided i had left over. The two lines connecting the fuel pump return and supply Tee and the line from that to the fuel pump
You could run a braided line here but i ran out. 1350mm in length approx. There is about 100mm excess incase i needed some additional length.
Vent line, about 80 to 100mm. have the end on the Tee connected and then push on the other end on the vent line. 5/16" size.
i have the line just just heading between tank and chassis.
Fuel filter is a Russel, Attached with a self tapping screw. Series 100 braided stainless steel hose 3m long -6AN to the fuel rails.
Top line is return line. 60 degree fitting will clear the tunnel, with about 10mm clearance. This view is trans lowered.
Bottom line is 45 degree -6AN.
you will also need a flexible dipstick. And you will need to cut the ear of a mounting tab on the 4l60e. DO THIS WITH IT OUT of the car...
I made sure the lines ran away from exhaust.
Then routed where the old fuel lines used to go. Supply line will be about 1500mm long, heading to bottom of radiator cooler. If using a 1/4" NPT port adapter (for temp sensor) then you will need a 90 degree. If no adapter then 45 degree. Return line will come from bottom of the external cooler (straight fitting) and be 1500mm long.
From the top of the rad cooler a 120 degree fitting 500mm long will go to top of cooler with a straight fitting.
I ran them through the rad seals and also wrapped them in heat shield to protect from rad heat and rubbing.
Trans lines. Took alot of trial and error. I wish i could of just followed what im about to post..
I brought a kit from ebay 20Ft / 6m with a bunch of fittings.
I have many pictures of the radiator, but ill make a new thread for it.
If i had to do it again i would move the shroud over towards the lower outlet on the right. The drivers side upper control arm is very close to the left fan.
I used 40x25mm Al angle on both sides and foam on the front to hold it in place. On the backside i used silicone, and the edges are zip tied. Ill do a new thread later.
A notch in the upper and lower Al angle mounts is to clear the bracket and bottom rubber mount.
Now to find the correct hoses..
Stock pics for the radiator foam kit dont make sense... So i have used them along with more foam to create a 99% seal.
Core support in first with the smaller 30mm bolts for the top two on each side, and a 35mm bolt with washer each side for the bottom two holes.
Installed. Still need to find the right radiator hoses
Ok i could not find any images of the LS1 water pump outlet and inlet sizes so here they are.
The belt is a Gates K060980 or Dayco 5060980 or Daytona K60980
Top port 33mm or 1/14" inlet goes to top left of radiator 35mm.
Thermostat bottom outlet 38mm goes to bottom right of radiator 38mm.
This is the hose i will go with for the top hose
Its a Mackay CH2256 replaces commodore VY-WK 2002-2004 3.8L V6
620mm long
34mm ID
This is great clearance for the Vararam GTO intake
The Bottom Radiator hose needs about 480mm length and 38mm ID. I could not find one the right shape so will try the flexible hose route.
Wont work with a spreader bar...
Dayco Flex Hose 81091 32MM-38MM ID x 49.5 CM
Dayco Flex Hose 81181 38MM ID x 50.5 CM
Mackay Flex Hose 38508F 38MM ID x 50.8 CM
I will be running the heater, but the diagram on that website for including a heater hose in the plumbing suggests the swirl pot / surge tank must be run between the heater and water pump.*
I have modified a diagram that shows the surge tank tapping into the LOW pressure side of the heater hose rather than the heater hose running into the swirl pot and than out again like in some pics..
The green highlight shows the LOW pressure side of the system.
The surge tank should be on the low pressure side for two reasons: (1) bubbles are only going to migrate to an area of lower pressure and (2) a low-velocity, low-pressure air pocket will facilitate deaeration.
The surge tank / swirl pot according to that website must have the bottom port linked to a LOW pressure side.
The options are
1. Heater IN (3/4")
2. Lower radiator hose (1/2")
The corvette uses a vacuum operated pressure valve on the 5/8" OUT side. When activated it will stop water flowing into the heater. Effectively all water coming out of heater (on the other side of the valve) will be low pressure and have a sucking action for the surge tank to take up any trapped air. This will be a better place than the lower radiator hose.
Now what to do with the cap.
This diagram shows the surge tank has a higher pressure cap which is correct.
It also shows a alternative lower rad hose option to tap into.
"If you add a surge tank to a system that already has a rad cap on the radiator, you need to permanently seal the radiator rad cap location, or at least install on the rad a cap with a rating significantly higher than the surge tank cap will have, so that the radiator mounted cap will not open before the surge tank cap."
It makes sense that you seal off the radiator using a Blanking Radiator Cap like a Tridon TRC10
Now i was initially confused about using a higher rad pressure cap than the surge tank. The rad vent port #13 that sends vented air to the surge tank would never open.
They are referring to the fact that the LS1 radiator has the vent port built into the high side of the radiator. So it will STILL be able to send air to the surge tank.
The corvette aftermarket radiator i have as the vent port in the radiator cap neck so the ONLY option is to use a Blanking Radiator Cap.
The surge tank then uses a high pressure cap (but what pressure rating...)
The main reason for running a 1.3 bar cap is to run straight distilled water (with water wetter to prevent corrosion). If you want to run the same setup all year round including winter run 50/50 antifreeze with Water Wetter (it improves coolant efficiency and especially helps evenly cool the cylinder head).
Going from 1.1 bar to 1.3 bar cap, you gain 0.2 bar or roughly 2.9psi of pressure. You gain 8.7 degrees (or around that) on top of the 257-260 degrees before we might experience boiling coolant in the system.
Im using a 1.3 bar Tridon Radiator Cap CB18125 on my surge tank.
Bazza do you happen to know what bottom radiator hose to use? I can find any that fit. Tried 6 so far from supercheap auto..
Yes your radiator looks like a Champion style and you have the same straight inlet fitting I used , so you have the same set up I did . I couldn't find a single hose that would fit , I ended up making an alloy joiner so I could combine 2 hoses , both intended for a a a ford !
Yes im at that point of acceleration now ! Mystic Pete is helping me with the wiring loom so shouldnt be too far away from getting this started.
Steam line will be going into a swirl pot that will be positioned higher than the radiator. I will post a diagram and explanation on how it works but it constantly bleeds the system of air. Used it on my 750HP Nissan.
Here is what im following https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/ GREAT guide on cooling.
Here is a system with NO swirl pot / surge tank
But i will be running a swirl pot / surge tank so mine will look like this
In this system:
The water pump pumps coolant out of the lower two ports on its back side and into the block.
Coolant circulates through the engine block...
... and through the cylinder heads.
The steam tubes carry steam and a small amount of coolant directly to the surge tank where the steam is separated from the coolant.
Coolant returning from the cylinder heads enters the two upper round ports on the left and right back sides of the pump
Some coolant circulates through the water pump's bypass circuit and is again pumped back through the engine. This keeps the circuit flowing when the thermostat is closed.
Hot coolant exiting from the engine that doesn't follow the pump's internal bypass circuit exits the water pump via the top 1-1/4" port and enters the top of the radiator.
Hot coolant flows across and down through the radiator, cooling as it goes.
Cooled coolant exits the radiator via the lower 1-1/2" outlet and returns to the inlet side of the water pump.
Returning coolant is blocked from re-entering the water pump inlet if the thermostat is closed. When the coolant on the inside (engine side) of the thermostat reaches the temperature of the thermostat (e.g. 190° F) the thermostat opens and the cool coolant enters the water pump inlet to be circulated through the engine again, starting over at #1.
A radiator bleed or vent port located at the top of the radiator connects to the surge tank. Any air or steam in the system, will naturally seek the highest point and will therefore exit the radiator via this port and travel to the surge tank. At the surge tank, coolant and steam enter and the steam or air is separated from the coolant. The lighter steam / air collects and remains in the surge tank at the highest point, just below the rad cap, to be eliminated first in the event the rad cap purges.
The coolant at the bottom of the surge tank re-enters the engine via the larger, front 3/4 " "heater in" port of the thermostat housing on the water pump. The "heater out" port is blocked off.
In the event of a system over-pressure condition, the rad cap opens and burps excess coolant and steam out of the system to be collected by the overflow tank.
So no heater then? Must be this Queensland weather, I can understand dropping the heater, thought about it myself, but there are those cold nights...
Last edited by mysticpete; 02-26-2019 at 05:19 AM.
Reason: added
Engine oil cooler
Sensors and Intellitronix dash install
Engine mount exhaust shields
Catch can install
I needed something small that is really well baffled. Mishimoto Compact Baffled Oil Catch Can, 2-Port https://www.mishimoto.com.au/compact...ort-12337.html
There is a knock off version on ebay for much cheaper.
Catch can IN - 25mm long to the valley cover. 45 degree -6AN push lock fitting Catch can OUT - 23mm long to the intake. 90 degree -6AN push lock fitting
Custom bracket made from
Needs a spacer (made from rod extension nut) between the AC ear mount and the other side of bracket.
This is to stop the bracket buckling as the bolt and nut is tightened.
Swirl pot
I wanted the swirl pot to be at the highest point and hidden but accessible.
Need: Hinge L bracket Rectangle or curved shape bracket 60mm long bolt with wing nut Most bolts are 15mm long 6mm in width with 5/16 or 8mm head.
This bracket took hours of trail and error to get right. I used an existing mount hole that the overflow bottle used. An additional hole was needed to be made in the wheel arch. Use washers both sides 15mm long bolts with lock nuts.
All hoses are 5/16" 50psi rated. SAE 30R7
The Tee is a 5/16" size
The green hose runs from the steam port to a Tee. It could also run directly to the swirl pot but i wanted it neater so its tee'd into the rad port.
The blue hose 6mm runs between the Tee and radiator.
The red hose 70mm runs from the Tee to the swirl pot middle port.
This is how the swirl pot is mounted and lines run.
The red 70mm hose will run on top of the upper control arm.
Could also be zip tied under the fender upper lip.
The yellow 28mm hose runs to the 5/8" to 5/16" Tee which is the heater hose outlet.
The cap is a 1.3 bar Tridon Radiator Cap CB18125
This is when the wingnut is off and the hinge allows the swirl pot to swing out.
Heater hose install
I found the perfect hose, Mackay CH735 hose. It has a ID of 18mm (3/4") which is perfect for the low pressure 3/4" water pump OUTlet.
It needs to be around 32mm long so cut off the last section.
Took me a while to find the adapter but got one from ebay. Brass Reducing Barb Tee Piece Fitting Adapter - 3/4 x 5/16 x 3/4.
The LOW pressure side from heater box is 3/4"
The High pressure side from heater box is 5/8"
You need 2x LS Swap Heater Hose 3/4" ID 24” long and 1x LS Swap Heater Hose 5/8" ID 24” Long
RED: LOW pressure: 32mm long 3/4"Mackay CH735 hose GREEN: LOW pressure: 48mm long 3/4"LS Swap hose. You need to trim off some both ends. The angle section needs to be trimmed so it sits flush with the heater box BLUE: HIGH pressure: 48mm long 5/8" LS Swap hose. You need to trim off some both ends. The angle section needs to be trimmed so it sits flush on top of the heater shut off valve. WHITE: HIGH pressure: 40mm long 5/8" LS Swap hose. You need to trim off some both ends. The angle section needs to be trimmed so it sits flush with the heater box YELLOW: 28mm long 5/16" hose that goes to bottom of the surge tank.
The heater hose shut off valve needs to be relocated so it sits lower and not on a angle.
It needs to be clear of the exhaust and allow the surge tank to swing out and clear it.
Measuring from the edge of the fender to the top of the hot water shut of valve is about 28mm. I used on existing hole and drill another.
Trans dipstick i brought needs to be modified.
CHEVY/GM 4L60E FLEXIBLE TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK FIREWALL MOUNT + Filler Tube by CFR Performance HZ-3005
Dipstick length: 27-5/8" Dipstick Tube Length: 26".
Total length 29-3/8"
Get one that is not plastic in the end but metal like this one.
You can buy one with a a shorter tip, so get that rather than a long one.
You will need to first shave one side of the face down. And most likely cut the length of the fitting down also. I cut 10 to 15mm off from memory
The Shiftworks kit
Drill out the hold bracket and screw in the new one.
If i was doing it again i would replace the screw head screws with hex heads.
Transfer the shifter boot to the new bracket
And install like this. Follow the directions for making sure the distance from the middle of the pin the cotter pin goes through is the right distance from the end of the bracket.
Windscreen universal washing kit
Comes with bag and motor built into it.
I did not like the mounts it came with so i got these clips from Bunnings. Dont bother trying to use the self adhesive, get KD bond or similar and glue them into the inner fender.
At this height they are reachable and allow the bag to somewhat sit on the bottom ledge.
Red wire goes to pink of the original plug and black to white.
Antenna install
I got this off ebay, to wire it correctly you dont use the original antenna relay. I will post a diagram up later.
To mount it see below for some ideas.
Charcoal canister install
This is off ebay from a VW Vetta Golf or Audi A3.
I removed the plastic line it came with and used a 3/8" fuel hose so i could mount it next to the body mount. I glued and ziptied on a 45 angle and bolted it to the old charcoal canister location.
The top line (1) runs to the LS purge solenoid that then goes to the TB.
The fuel vent line i then run into the top of the canister (2)
The bottom port you see i just left as is.
Vararam GTO Intake http://www.vararam.com/sdr.html
This is the best intake for this swap. Fits perfect when not using MAF and engine sat back.
It would still work with a MAF and engine in normal position but maybe not both without alot more modification.
Support 800hp/ 500 cu inch and 7000+RPM, breathes better when the hood is “CLOSED”.
Minor modifications need to be made.
A small cut on the passenger side was needed on the far right corner
Around the throttle body area the intake needs some trimming.
Ideally brackets should be made to support the rear ledge so it holds the intake away from the water pump pulley.
Looking at the corner with the black mark is what needs cutting to so it clears the radiator bracket.
Around the TB area needs trimming so you can get the plugs on and be able to slide the intake over the TB when installing it.
I am also using the vararam TB velocity ram.
Here are the brackets i fabbed up to hold the rear of the tray away from the water pump pulley. I also used thick dense foam for the intake to rest on and it hold it firm under the rad support lip.
This is how close it is to the rad support with the engine back 2.5 inches from memory. You would need to cut the front lip
The supplied silicone ring needs to be cut on an angle, i tried to give approx measurements
Many hours went into making a hood dam so the air is boxed in and forced into the intake
View of the 82 rad support that has a V allowing air to flow into the intake. It would still work without this but any increase in air the better.
Support brackets holding the rear up. They are not actually needed to hold the intake in place
I used gold heat tape to make further heat soak prevention
drilled a hold and used rubber bung for the IAT sensor
02-06-2019, 08:59 PM
