dyerk

the pass door on my 69 will not completely latch unless the door is closed very hard and the whole car moves. Any ideas

blue by you

check the striker pin it most likely needs to be adjusted

Alan 71

Hi d,
While it may well be that the striker needs to be adjusted I'd first check a couple of other things.
Does the door still need to be slammed with the window rolled down?
Is there any indication that the weather stripping on the door or on the a-pilar is being 'pinched' and causing the need for extra effort?
Regards,
Alan

dyerk

Window up or down still slamming required.

Peterbuilt

Hi dyerk,
The first thing to check are the hinge pin bushings.
With the door open a few inches lift up at the rear of the door, if the door moves up before the body moves then you must replace the bushings before you do anything else.

domenic tallarita

If all the things mentioned are checked you might try coating the weather stripping with SYL GLIDE. It will allow the weather strip to find a new position. One that will keep any rubber from sticking when the door is closed.
It's made fore that and O-ring placement. I use it on all new weather striping and it helps the weather stripping to find it's place and take a set.

Dom

dyerk

Where do you get the syl glide?

domenic tallarita

You know I spelled it wrong, it's SIL GLYDE. My son gets it for me. I think it's from a local auto parts store. It's in a large plastic tube.

Dom

dyerk

Thanks. I will try to find the Sil Glyde as its a good idea anyway. I think I found my problem. The sticker pin seems to be of a smaller diameter than the drivers side. Seems like a collar is missing from the pin. I will try a new striker. The hinge pins are all good and all the other advice from above.

Alan 71

Hi d,
Be careful which striker you buy.
Some of the reproductions don't have that 'collar' that spins as the latch is closing on the striker. They have a solid 'shank'.
You might even want to look for a good used original.
Regards,
Alan

Neil B

If you don't find any weatherstrip or door panel obstruction, mark the current striker bolt placement with tape and then loosen and move it out 1/16" - 1/8". It will take only a minute or two to try and you can always move it back. Try to strike the best balance between door closing feel and door-to-quarter panel alignment. I had trouble with getting my door to open and moving the striker out a touch really helped.

lars

I'd suggest removing the striker completely. With the striker removed, move the door to the closed position and look at the alignment of the upper edge of the rear of the door to the upper edge of the quarter panel. Verify that the door is not "sagging" and misaligned. Look at the center body crease as well and see if the door crease lines up with the quarter panel crease. Then, grab back of the door and see if you can lift it up and down against slop in the hinges. If the door does not align with the quarter, or if you can lift it up and down against the slop in the hinges, you need to either rebuild the hinges or re-align the door (or both). If the door lines up and is not sloppy, you just need to re-install the striker and align it correctly.

Lars