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I like using Bosch-can still find NOS ones on eBay- now owned by Tyco.
I also like the Ford inertia/rollover shut off- just in case.
About $30 at Summit Racing and almost free at the junkyard- used on on a lot of 90-00 Fords
In the battery compartment-
and when the inertia /shut off is switched- I'm using a blown led/fuse that lights and tells me my fuel pump is shut off-
I like using Bosch-can still find NOS ones on eBay- now owned by Tyco.
I also like the Ford inertia/rollover shut off- just in case.
About $30 at Summit Racing and almost free at the junkyard- used on on a lot of 90-00 Fords
In the battery compartment-
and when the inertia /shut off is switched- I'm using a blown led/fuse that lights and tells me my fuel pump is shut off-
Anything specific have more of these than the rest and are you using the underhood fuse panel also?
I sort of did like "sub panels" through out the car-
I have a fusebox (water sealed & up, out of the way) at the headlights used for horn/fans/headlights/electric headlight motors-
And behind the pass side dash- it controls ECU/Starter/injectors/AC/PW/lighting
(says fuel pump- but that's been changed to injectors)
Did away with the stock fusepanel- and made one you can get to!!!
What about availability of the relays, eventually id like to do stuff like drag week or power tour. With stuff like that in mind I would plan for an extra relay but, if you have two die would like to be able to pick for parts store same day.
I'm using those same Bosch relays in my EFI install. In 15 years not a single Bosch relay has ever failed. They're the real deal. I keep a couple spares in the car anyway just in case.
They're available at any parts store although it will be knock-offs and not genuine Bosch.
I'm using those same Bosch relays in my EFI install. In 15 years not a single Bosch relay has ever failed. They're the real deal. I keep a couple spares in the car anyway just in case.
They're available at any parts store although it will be knock-offs and not genuine Bosch.
thats just it their knock off brand ones have to be ordered in, or the relay isnt rated for continuous use.
Or you can go to your local u-pull-it type junkyard-
Look at the mid 90's 5 &7 series BMWs- they will have a dozen or so of the Bosch relays. Maybe a $1?
For some reason (charge more?) they usually haves pins 86 and 30 swapped as compared to the standard 5 pin socket. Easy fix w/ a small screwdriver to your sockets.
Here's a few "used" Boschs being used for door locks and power windows- Just swapped the yellow wire with the black one.
Originally Posted by zwede
I'm using those same Bosch relays in my EFI install. In 15 years not a single Bosch relay has ever failed. They're the real deal. I keep a couple spares in the car anyway just in case.
They're available at any parts store although it will be knock-offs and not genuine Bosch.
Years ago -I use to call on Bluebird Bus 's division "Wanderlodge Bus." Used over 300 Bosch relays and they swore by them!!!
Last edited by Richard454; 07-16-2017 at 07:05 PM.
Or you can go to your local u-pull-it type junkyard-
Look at the mid 90's 5 &7 series BMWs- they will have a dozen or so of the Bosch relays. Maybe a $1?
For some reason (charge more?) they usually haves pins 86 and 30 swapped as compared to the standard 5 pin socket. Easy fix w/ a small screwdriver to your sockets.
Here's a few "used" Boschs being used for door locks and power windows- Just swapped the yellow wire with the black one.
Years ago -I use to call on Bluebird Bus 's division "Wanderlodge Bus." Used over 300 Bosch relays and they swore by them!!!
Are we sure they are rated for continuous use? Have a part number?
So I took the number from that ebay add, cross referenced it on Oreilly autos site which gave me part number R681. Searched that number in BWD ecatalog here http://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/bwd/#/ve...um/R681?type=s which tells me that relay is no rated for continuous use.
The Bosch style relays always seem to be continuous duty capable. Not sure what you're seeing there.
What you should be concerned about is the socket. The terminal using a flat piece that is just rolled around in curves on each side to grab the spade are junk. You need the high current connectors to be built like Packard 59 terminals if you want reliability.
I've used various knock-off relays for years and the only failures I've had were the junk terminals in the cheap pre-made sockets. I don't worry about the brand of relay but I never use cheap connectors anymore.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 07-16-2017 at 10:40 PM.
The Bosch style relays always seem to be continuous duty capable. Not sure what you're seeing there.
What you should be concerned about is the socket. The terminal using a flat piece that is just rolled around in curves on each side to grab the spade are junk. You need the high current connectors to be built like Packard 59 terminals if you want reliability.
I've used various knock-off relays for years and the only failures I've had were the junk terminals in the cheap pre-made sockets. I don't worry about the brand of relay but I never use cheap connectors anymore.
I was hoping to reuse factory relays and pigtails but, I cant find a factory relay that is rated for continuous use. Ive got two banks of relays from S10 Blazers that should work but they aren't rated for continuous use.
I've used various knock-off relays for years and the only failures I've had were the junk terminals in the cheap pre-made sockets. I don't worry about the brand of relay but I never use cheap connectors anymore.
Hmmm- if we were talking several hundred dollars difference..then the cheap knock off ( the term Bosch type relay is used for that very reason) would make sence- but we are talking about $5-6 more? Really?
Specs-
General Specifications
Bosch Part Number: 0332209150
Voltage: 12V
Current: 30A
SPDT
Enclosure: Standard Cover W/Bracket
Suppression: Resistor
Footprint: ISO 5 pin
Coil Specifications
Coil Operating Current: 160 mA
Equivalent Coil Resistance: 69 - 80 Ohms
Pull-in Voltage: 8 V
Drop-out Voltage: 1.2 - 5 V
Operating Conditions
Operating Temperature: -40 - 100 C
Humidity Test: 95% for 7 Days
Salt Spray Test: 144 Hours
Dust Test: 8 Days
Life Tests
Resitive Load - N/O: 30 A - 150,000 cycles
Resitive Load - N/C: 20 A - 100,000 cycles
Motor Load - N/O: 40 A - 150,000 cycles
Motor Load - N/C: 15 A - 75,000 cycles
Lamp Load - N/O: 30 A - 150,000 cycles
Lamp Load - N/C: 15 A - 50,000 cycles
Mechanical life: 1,000,000 cycles
Hmmm- if we were talking several hundred dollars difference..then the cheap knock off ( the term Bosch type relay is used for that very reason) would make sence- but we are talking about $5-6 more? Really?
Specs-
General Specifications
Bosch Part Number: 0332209150
Voltage: 12V
Current: 30A
SPDT
Enclosure: Standard Cover W/Bracket
Suppression: Resistor
Footprint: ISO 5 pin
Coil Specifications
Coil Operating Current: 160 mA
Equivalent Coil Resistance: 69 - 80 Ohms
Pull-in Voltage: 8 V
Drop-out Voltage: 1.2 - 5 V
Operating Conditions
Operating Temperature: -40 - 100 C
Humidity Test: 95% for 7 Days
Salt Spray Test: 144 Hours
Dust Test: 8 Days
Life Tests
Resitive Load - N/O: 30 A - 150,000 cycles
Resitive Load - N/C: 20 A - 100,000 cycles
Motor Load - N/O: 40 A - 150,000 cycles
Motor Load - N/C: 15 A - 75,000 cycles
Lamp Load - N/O: 30 A - 150,000 cycles
Lamp Load - N/C: 15 A - 50,000 cycles
Mechanical life: 1,000,000 cycles
The BWD cross reference says this isnt rated for continuous use. Am i making a bigger deal out of this than it really is? I know there are some electrical engineers on here, any opinions?
Hmmm- if we were talking several hundred dollars difference..then the cheap knock off ( the term Bosch type relay is used for that very reason) would make sence- but we are talking about $5-6 more? Really?
I can get them easily and immediately and they've never been an issue for me so why would I spend any extra time or money on them? I'll put the effort into other things that matter more.
The BWD cross reference says this isnt rated for continuous use. Am i making a bigger deal out of this than it really is? I know there are some electrical engineers on here, any opinions?
I have no idea what BWD is doing. If they actually do manufacture them then maybe they aren't rated. If they re-sell them from another source then they likely got the specs wrong. I've never seen a Bosch style relay that was marked as not continuous duty rated before and I've never had one fail because I ran it continuously.
I was hoping to reuse factory relays and pigtails but, I cant find a factory relay that is rated for continuous use. Ive got two banks of relays from S10 Blazers that should work but they aren't rated for continuous use.
Look at 88-94 range full-size GM pickups. The relay was on the firewall passenger side. It has a weatherpack type sealed connector and both the relay and connector are quality parts.
Look at 88-94 range full-size GM pickups. The relay was on the firewall passenger side. It has a weatherpack type sealed connector and both the relay and connector are quality parts.
Actually that's what started this, I was planning to use one but I have that system in a truck and know there is a oil pressure switch that also allows voltage to pass when pressure is up. Two sources of smaller gauge wire to supply voltage to stock low pressure pump. I have a walboro pump that draws more voltage and wasn't sure of the voltage rating for that gauge and the length to go almost the entire length of the car. While checking the specs on it I noticed it is not rated for continuous use, guess gm intended for that oil pressure switch to take over.
07-15-2017, 09:59 PM
