NRAROX

Sorry I can't help, Garrett. I'm currently only a roadster owner. Good luck!

DUB

YES...I feel you did the right thing by not just slapping some stuff in and letting it go. I often times run into repair that escalates like this.

I also believe the black area is just as you think. It is a surface that will provide added adhesion for the adhesive.

DUB

garrettb

Thanks, Dub. I just feel like with the amount of work I've already done, there wouldn't be a point in cutting corners now. Plus, I've got some fiberglass tops coming from another forum member to get me through the summer.

My local print shop quoted me $50 per top to re-apply black vinyl along the outside of the frame, which I'll probably end up doing.

It seems to me that the adhesive used to secure the frame is butyl tape. Is that the case or was there urethane adhesive out of a caulk gun? I want to make sure I do the right thing. I'd like a glass shop to reglue the stud though, because that adhesive looks different than what's used for the frame.

DUB

I SERIOUSLY DOUBT that GM used butyl tape to bond the parts of this top together. Butyl tape does not have the same shear strength as urethane. Now they may have used some butyl tape to fill in areas that needed it but it was not used to provide any added adhesion..more than it was used to fill in cavities.

You are aware that you can buy the outer black trim that goes around your top ..in case yours are messed up.

I can applaud your dedication to this issue...but for me...because I have run into scenarios like this more times than you can imagine.....and I honestly do not waste my time on it....I send the tops off and let the company that deals in them do it. I can do the weatherstrip with no problem...but if the frame and the top separate....I send them off.

Simply because...cost wise... it is cheaper for my customer for me to do this...just like I can rebuild brake calipers and have all the tools...but if my time and parts cost more than a caliper that has been rebuilt..so...it is pointless for me to do it many longer.

DUB

garrettb

You bring up some excellent points. Some things just aren't worth the time. Is Melrose the company you send yours to? I may give them a call to see what they could do for me.

I found the exterior trim for sale, but not the inner rubber u-channel trim that goes around the inside of the frame. The quote from the graphics company was to reapply the original black "sun shield" that was destroyed in the removal of the weatherstrip and frame.

DUB

YES...Melrose.

DUB

garrettb

I had high hopes of getting the door and pillar strips installed tonight, but I ran into fitment issues.

I hope the annotated photos help to show what I am running into. The bottom of the trim "slices" the top of the door weatherstrip. I can move the trim in and out, but it doesn't go up and down. What can I do to make this fit better? A few times opening and closing the doors would tear that front section of weatherstrip.

One more thing, the caulk sealing the windshield frame and the trim is as hard as a rock. What should I use to replace it? I know it's original, because I removed all the original weatherstrip and this piece has never been off the car.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated! I don't really know what I'm doing here, so I figured I'd stop and ask for help before I slice up my new weatherstrip.

garrettb

I found a product I think will work for sealing the trim to the windshield frame. Anyone ever used the 3M?

I've also attached a photo showing where the original screws were set. The trim was adjusted all the way forward. Because it came from the factory like that, I'm not going to change it. I just wish it could move up a little.

I also got a little fresh paint on the blow out clips. They look nice! If only I had a powder coater. I'd do the entire trim! Still looking for advice before I glue the weatherstrip though. The fit between the door and A pillar trim scares me.

DUB

You can not move the pillar trim BECAUSE it has to fit correctly to the upper trim that goes across your windshield...and that can only go in one a way and you can not move that up.

I can say that getting the front of your door main weatherstrip to correctly fit in place can be a challenge some times ...there is (or should be) a channel cast into the weatherstrip that will fit onto of the metal section of the door. DO not be surprised if you might need to manually massage the weatherstrip to get it where you need it. Most of the time I don't have to do this...but on some cars...I have to.

If you have your old weatherstrip ..put that front section back on and take a look at it so you have a comparison. What you might also find it how the back of the door main weatherstrip...where to two screws go that hold it on...that metal piece made in it might not be JUST RIGHT...so do not be surprised when you get to that point.

I prefer to use CRL 7708 for the inside of the pillar molding...but you can use the 3M strip caulk....but I would heat it up a bit to make it more flexible before you installed it...especially if it is hard.

You wrote:One more thing, the caulk sealing the windshield frame and the trim is as hard as a rock. What should I use to replace it? I know it's original, because I removed all the original weatherstrip and this piece has never been off the car.


You need to clarify this with a photo so I know exactly where you are talking about and the sealant you are referring to. BE very precise in your reply.

DUB

garrettb

Thanks for the reply! The caulk I was referring to was for the inside of the pillar molding. I bought that 3M stuff from my local autobody shop to replace it. The 3M product seems to be very soft and moldable.

I noticed the channel inside the front of the door weatherstrip, but I can't do much to force it down. The screw holes line up pretty well, so I may just have to run with it as is.

I've already run into the issue with the metal bracket with the two holes in it for the rear part of the door. It's too wide and won't allow that portion of the strip to sit tight against the door. I'll try to fix it with my Dremel. One slip and I'm done for though!

I'm going to just start gluing and post some photos later. I'm also in the process of rebuilding the HVAC system so I'd like to get the dash back together tonight too.

DUB

When I glue the door main weatherstrip in..I do it in three steps.

Do you have your old front section of the door main w/strip to compare to???

DUB

garrettb

Would you be willing to disclose those steps? Unfortunately I don't have the old ends to compare with. Both ends were totally rotted off and long gone before I got the car...

DUB

STEP 1.) I first check to see if the ends will be able to be attached correctly...and IF NOT I do what I need to before I go and attach the w/strip.

STEP 2.) A person needs to be AWARE of the length of the screw that holds the w/strip at the front...where that screw that goes towards the door glass is SHORT and NOT long or you can scratch your door glass.

STEP 3.) I start a the front and manually fit it and run the w/strip by hand down to the bottom of the front of the door where it starts to curve to the underside horizontal area. When I find the spot that I want to stop. I hold the w/strip and apply a piece of tape...and also a piece of tape on the door so I know where to stop applying the glue.

STEP 4.) Apply the glue on the cleaned w/strip to the two surfaces that need to have thin layer applied to it. Then apply the glue to the same areas on the door itself. Let that tack up and then install the top end of the w/strip and install the 2 screws. Then carefully position the w/strip on the door where you applied the glue and when you get to the end...and NOT stretching the w/strip while you are installing it at this time. Apply a piece of tape to hold that w/strip from wanting to pull away from the door.

The rest I am sure you can figure out...like I would tell the guys I trained.....seeing how the first section of the w/strip is now bonded.

DUB

garrettb

Thanks for the awesome pointers. I'd definitely be better at doing the doors now that I have two done. The hardest thing to work with on the doors was trying to stretch and apply glue and tape all at once. If only the glue didn't dry so fast! Live and learn I guess. It seems like it's solid on there and won't move for some time.

The A pillars went well. I was worried about these and making sure they stuck on the top end of the strip, but it seems like it's holding well. The seal on the door seems satisfactory as well.

I sent my mirror tops to Melrose yesterday, and he is going to see what he can do to fix them. In the meantime I am in the process of fitting the fiberglass tops I just bought to the car. Surprisingly, I only broke one of the headliner velcro buttons despite them all being glued together.

Next step is to adjust door glass and figure out how the rear strip is supposed to fit with the door panel. Under or over? When I bought the car, this portion of W/S was totally gone, so I have nothing to compare to and I can't find photos.

LenWoodruff

I need to put new weatherstrip on my glass t-tops so I am following this thread.

DUB

The rear portion of your door main w/strip goes OVER the door panel...so it can seal against the rear vertical w/strip.

YES...depending on the time of year and the air temps...applying the glue on BOTH surfaces is a MUST and the amount that can be applied to the w/strip and door will be somewhat controlled by how hot it is when doing this.

DUB

Olavo

I'm facing the same issue, half of the metal frame took of the glass + the rear pin of the lock mechanism is totally stuck ( Left t-top pin stuck inside[Unlock], after some unsuccessful tries) ( Right T-top pin stuck outside [Locked] )

How was the process to bond again the frame ?

Thanks !!

Drive safe !

garrettb

Not sure what you mean about the lock/unlock pins. Are you referring to the pins that extend into the body when the latch is closed? That mechanism will come mostly apart without separating the glass from the frame.

I ended up sending mine to Melrose. I won't be using them in the future, though. To me, the quality of work was marginal with respect to the large sum of money I paid...