garrettb

Before I start, I have a confession. Yes, I bought the Metro weatherstripping. The way I look at it, when I paint the car in a few years, why would I want to pay twice as much for the good stuff when it will get destroyed during removal anyway?

Here's where I am at now. I spent a good portion of the day removing the yellow glue around the doors to try and get that ready. When I test fit the new strip, I found that the molding on the top front of the door doesn't line up quite right.

I also removed the pillar weatherstrip and am now wondering if I need to keep taking things apart, or if the new rubber just slides in?

As for the glass tops, this weatherstripping was not original. Bubba had a real good time emptying all the tubes of adhesive he could find on these poor tops. In the process, a lot of the black coating was scraped off. What kind of paint is this? Should I try to cover that up before I install the new weatherstrip?

It's no wonder I am getting wet inside the car with all this. Don't even get me started about the wind noise. I thought this would be a day project, but it's quickly turning into much more. I just want to drive the car! Help would be appreciated...

garrettb

Well, after going through lots more adhesive remover and not getting anywhere far, I am officially frustrated. Anyone know where I can buy the CRC weatherstrip? I have seen some vendors that sell USA made weatherstrip, but wasn't sure if that meant it was CRC. I just want this project to be over, whether I have to replace it to paint in a few years or not. This Metro stuff isn't working out and I'm losing motivation.

Alan 71

Hi g,
Willcox is one of the many vendors that sell CRC weather-strip.
CRC weatherstrip still takes lots of time and patience to install well.
It's not faster or easier to install, it's just a better weatherstrip.
Regards,
Alan

V4motorsports

There is a right way to install the weatherstripping. I followed this video and had absolutely no problems.

Just take your time!!!!


Hope this helps

Russ

DUB

If when you get the CRC weatherstrip and you find that it works...GREAT. Do not be surprised if the spine of the weatherstrip tears.

IF you feel that it is too hard to install your T-tops and feel that you are going to break them hen trying to get them to latch...PM me and I can give you a name of a supplier I use that sells the latex weatherstrip.

DUB

garrettb

I bought a set of the CRC from Willcox yesterday. If it's half as good as people say it is, I will be happy! I'll keep everyone posted on progress and take some photos of the Metro and CRC side by side if I can remember.

Dub, you've seen your fair share of T-Tops. How can I get this glue off without further destroying the black coating? Previous owners have seemingly replaced the weatherstrip without removing old glue, making a huge mess and cutting up the black in the process. I have the 3M adhesive remover, but it's not doing much. I can't get a razor blade in there because of the weird angle and for fear of cutting the black inside coating. Still not sure how I will patch that up when I'm done...

DUB

From what I have experienced with the mirror glass T-tops is that the adhesive that seems to aid in holding and sealing the weatherstrip is not like the glue that is used on an earlier fiberglass T-top.

What I feel you have on your top is like the urethane used for windshields and it must be carefully cut and trimmed. YES..I know..it is no easy feat.

When I do this I am NOT concerned about getting ALL of the urethane out..I just want a good surface that I can re-apply my adhesive/sealant to. YES...I know the frustration in trying to NOT cut into the backside of the mirror glass....and the angle can be a ROYAL PAIN> But fear not...you can get it. I also use an actual scalpel to carefully cut and trim the urethane black adhesive.

DUB

garrettb

I bet it is the urethane stuff that I'm getting at now. It's quite a bit tougher than the other black adhesive I have been removing. I thought I read another thread that said this adhesive should be left alone? Is that the case? Should I try to trim it all the way back to the frame to get a good fit on the weatherstripping?

I am going to pick up one of those plastic razor blades and see if I can get any luck with that.

DUB

Trimming on the urethane all depends IF it needs to be trimmed on in order to get the new weatherstrip to sit flat against the areas as needed.

DUB

garrettb

I made some more progress tonight. The plastic razor blade worked really well and I was able to get most of the glue out except for what's under the frame. The issue now is all the scratches that are exposed. How can I take care of these? Is there a way to fix this before I put the weatherstripping in? I bought a can of Plasti-Dip to spray around where the black film was applied. The single coat I tried looks like it will stick well, and will block light with a few more coats applied. One step at a time I guess!

NRAROX

Is it possible to install new seals in such a way that the car will not leak? As I recall, th C-3 t-tops were notorious for leaking when new. Or is that simply an untrue legend? If they can be made watertight, and the original deliveries were indeed quite commonly 'leakers', is the ability to seal them simply better attention to installation, improved seals, or something else? (Hopefully you agree this question is relevant to your thread.)

NRAROX

Btw, I had great success using a soy product to melt the glue used to install my original carpet without harming any other surface. I have also used it successfully on silicone. Only stuff I have found that melts silicone. Spray, rest, scrub with a stiff brush or scrape with a putty knife. Let me know if you want the product name. I would have to go find it.

DUB

I can install new t-top weatherstrips and just about any other weatherstrip and not have the car leak.

What often times occurs is the misconception that the weatherstrip glue is all you need ...when actually I use other products in conjunction of the weatherstrips in certain areas to better match what GM used and provide a water tight car. Weatherstrip glue can work for awhile...but in time might fail...thus needing to be backed up with other products that can better reinforce the sealed area.

DUB

NRAROX

Dub, can you point me to where you've elaborated on this in the past, or perhaps provide a few pointers here?

DUB

Not meaning to 'hi-jack' this thread. but it is somewhat relevant.

When it comes to T-top weatherstrips I am an fan of the latex design. BUT this also can be a slight issue depending on the year model of T-top and if it is painted fiberglass or a mirror top.

the MAIN issue I have with the T-top weatherstrips is what I call the 'spine'. And that is the area where the 'christmas tree' fasteners are installed.

Some manufacturers that it seems that everybody swears by... makes the T-top weatherstrip so spongy that there is literally NO SPINE and you can tear it because it is not correct and does not allow for excessive pulling of the weatherstrip when installing...or worse yet...you are pressing in the christmas tree fasteners and they can cut through the foam or pull out of the 'spine'area....which...leads me to another issue and that is the placement of the christmas tree fasteners themselves being off.

On the single latch T-tops. (1978-1982) you ahve to be careful becasue IF the spine is too dense..when you go to set the top and pull it down to latch it ...that dense weatherstrip will often times will not give enough and oyu will feel you are going to snap the top in half if it is a mirror top.

As for me using addition sealant. I use the CRL 1716 to aid in sealing off areas that I feel need it so I do not need to deal with the weatherstrips again.

DUB

garrettb

Great information guys. There are so many adjustments that can cause a car like this to leak, and they all affect each other! It seems like the only piece of weatherstripping that doesn't require adjustment is the door seal.

I spent more time working on my glass tops this morning, and found something unexpected. At least one of the studs holding the frame to the glass has become separated. At this point, I'm thinking I'll start searching for some fiberglass tops to get me thought the rest of the summer and deal with these later.

I bought some cerium oxide and felt polishing wheels to take care of some of the scratches, but none of that really matters now if the glass could fly off the car at any moment. Is complete removal of the frame the only right way to do this job, or could I just inject some urethane adhesive between the frame and glass? As you can see from the photos, there isn't much adhesive left between the frame and glass anyway. It's like whoever installed it "missed" and laid the strip down in the wrong place.

Why is it that one seemingly simple project always has to turn into six more?!

Street Rat

DUB what locations and weatherstrips are you using the CRL 1716 on?

DUB

I hate that you asked because that is really something I keep to myself and is one of the benefits for my customers who choose me to work on their Corvette. I know it is a small thing and I know many people may think that I should just give one of my tricks away....but when it comes to me water testing a Corvette..it saves me time...and I can not give all what I know away.

I mentioned it so those who care to...can look and analyze where they know using the CRL 1716 would benefit them....just like I did because no one told me. NOW...if a person does not want to take that time.....then they can deal with it later if it needs to be dealt with later at all.

DUB

Street Rat

DUB I totally respect your point of view.

Just trying to pick your brain as you always give quality advice.

garrettb

I've reached the point of no return, although I didn't have much of a choice. that stud was totally loose, and the only way to glue it back on the right way was to totally remove everything.

I don't know how deep I want to go in restoring these tops. I'll have a glass shop glue the stud back on, but I'm sure I can take care of the urethane on the frame. Is that black on the glass paint or primer? Maybe it's there to help promote adhesion.

I'll keep posting as I make progress for anyone interested. As an alternative to the plastidip, I may see if my local graphics shop can cut me a black piece of vinyl with the contours I need and just stick it down again. I can't find any reproductions online.