Front wheel bearings
07-17-2017, 10:26 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Remove wheels, calipers (Support them from something, don't let them hang by the hoses), Remove cap, cotter pin and nut. Pull the rotors, take a drift and knock out the bearings and races, drive new races in, pack the new bearings, install inner bearing and seal into the hub, then install the hub/rotor to the spindle and put it all back together.
No real tricks.
No real tricks.
07-17-2017, 10:51 PM
#3
Team Owner
Do you not have a Service Manual for your car?
07-18-2017, 06:51 AM
#4
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Posts: 5,338
Received 1,199 Likes
on
925 Posts
Royal Canadian Navy
Bearing pre-load must be set and final adjustment set for the bearings. As suggested, you should get a manual if you plan on doing your own work on the car or you can google.
07-18-2017, 06:56 AM
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi P,
I'll only add one thing to TAT's instructions…
After reassembly while rotating the wheel tighten the spindle nut to 12 lbs. ft.
Then back off the nut one 'flat' on the nut so you can insert the cotter pin into the hole in the spindle.
If needed you can back off 1/2 flat further in order to insert the cotter pin. As you can see in the photo you typically need to loosen the nut less than 1 'flat' to get the cotter pin in place.
Check the wheel to ensure it spins freely.
Good Luck.
Regards,
Alan
I'll only add one thing to TAT's instructions…
After reassembly while rotating the wheel tighten the spindle nut to 12 lbs. ft.
Then back off the nut one 'flat' on the nut so you can insert the cotter pin into the hole in the spindle.
If needed you can back off 1/2 flat further in order to insert the cotter pin. As you can see in the photo you typically need to loosen the nut less than 1 'flat' to get the cotter pin in place.
Check the wheel to ensure it spins freely.
Good Luck.
Regards,
Alan
The following users liked this post:
The Punisher (07-18-2017)
07-18-2017, 07:10 AM
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Russell Ontario
Posts: 2,537
Received 177 Likes
on
122 Posts
St. Jude Donor '09
if you want pics have a look at an article I wrote Our Garage , Ron's tidbits www.capitalcorvetteclub.ca
The following 2 users liked this post by RonR80:
Primoz (07-18-2017),
The Punisher (07-18-2017)
07-18-2017, 08:05 AM
#7
Team Owner
The "pre-load" torque is required to make sure the bearing if FULLY seated. Only then can the bearing be set properly for running clearance (backing off a bit to fit the cotter-pin).
P.S. I have used synthetic grease in the front wheel bearings for some time, now. It does a better job of lubing those bearings; plus it won't separate out with heat of running for long periods nor leak out and make a mess around the hub.
P.S. I have used synthetic grease in the front wheel bearings for some time, now. It does a better job of lubing those bearings; plus it won't separate out with heat of running for long periods nor leak out and make a mess around the hub.
07-18-2017, 05:37 PM
#9
Racer
"While spinning the wheel in the direction of forward vehicle travel, torque the bearing nut to 15ft/lbs, this sets the bearing and grease.
Back off the nut until loose then while rotating in the direction of travel retighten to 50-60 inch pounds, Install the cotter pin without backing off to the nearest cotter pin hole. This give .0005-.001
Now the problem is there is no cotter pin hole??? Check and you will find there are TWO 2 holes in the spindle and the chances are good one of them lines up. If not then you can use valve spring shims under the nut, install one shim try the procedure again and check the TWO cotter pin holes.
I have used this for years along with trued/shimmed rotors and the most runout I have in one wheel is .003 total for bearing and runout."
I borrowed this 2004 comment from a post by Norval Wilhelm. You should read the whole thing if you want more detail.