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Sirs,
Input, tips, advice on removing the differential would be appreciated. Car is a 1972 model, LS5, Muncie 4 speed.
From looking at the photos, it appears that I need to remove the drive shaft, half shafts, the bolts that connect the spring to the trailing arm, the pinion snubber, and the crossmember. Am I overlooking anything? How heavy is it?
It's pretty heavy. I think it's about 105 pounds. How you take it down depends on how high off of the ground you have the car. I used a floor jack on top of rolling dolly, strapped the differential and crossmember to the jack, and lowered it down. Loosen the crossmember bolts a little and break the rubber bushings free of the frame with a pry bar, then remove the bolts the rest of the way. There are also videos on youtube on removing the crossmember/differential.
Is there a specific shop you'd send it to for a rebuild? I have a seal that's leaking, and I'm sure it wouldn't hurt a thing to put new bearings in it.
Hi m,
I'll reiterate what teamo posted…. it's VERY heavy… you don't want to be under the differential and crossmember when it final comes loose from the frame.
Be prepared to stop it in some way BESIDES having it land on your body and legs, or falling to the garage floor!
Once more…. it's heavy!
Regards,
Alan
Is there a specific shop you'd send it to for a rebuild? I have a seal that's leaking, and I'm sure it wouldn't hurt a thing to put new bearings in it.
An alternative method to get the differential out without removing the crossmember is to use a flat ratcheting wrench and a deep hex socket. I do not remember the size. See below. It fits between the body and the crossmember but you do need to be a little adept with your fingers, etc.
Additionally some long bolts with the heads cut off and loosely held serve to reposition it going back in.
Why might you choose this? Well when I pulled the body off I had to pound on my 45 year old crossmember with a sledge to get it out. These things don't always just pop out. Of course going back in you'll want new rubber insulators so that is certainly a consideration, as they also are a bitch to get out.
The only real downside is you can't correctly torque the mounting bolts. But in 10 years of hard use, it never loosened on me.
And of course as is suggested in the General forum as to changing the differential fluid
Originally Posted by Mr D.
Somewhere in the middle of all that would be a good time to just do a frame off restoration because changing the differential fluid most always turns into a frame off restoration.
It is worth having the diff tapped for a drain bolt. Mine is and it makes the need for pumping the old fluid out disappear
FWIW, I soaked those rubber bushings with PB Blaster, waited 24 hours, and with a crowbar, they popped right off. Best to install longer bolts first, so it will drop but not fall. My 2 cents.
Maybe. When I did a clutch job, I borrowed one from a friend and it had a nice feature in that it would tilt. Also it was hydraulic. In a pinch I suppose I would buy this for the diff but if doing the transmission or anticipating doing that by myself I would hold out for one with more adjustments. The strap is nice.
As this job got underway, I noticed that my pinion snubber bolt / bushing was improperly installed (Bubba strikes again). The bolt had been run up through the bushing and tube from the bottom, and the nut was tightened down from above the tunnel where the driveshaft comes through. For the life of me, I cant imagine how they even got it in there in the first place, but after working with it for quite a while, it came on out. I cleaned it all up with vinegar and Simple Green, then media blasted all the parts and painted the bracket. I reinstalled it and what a huge difference! The bumping noise went away, and it made the back end feel much more solid.
I decided to delay the removal of the differential until a time when it's not so dang hot, but thanks again for the help.
07-24-2017, 03:02 PM
Differential removal
