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My original starter is suffering from heat problems probably due to headers but since I dont have original manifolds the headers must stay. I got a ministarter from a friend so I would like to try this one but the problem is on the original starter I have 4 connections and on the mini only 2. I know one is for battery direct and 1 is from ignitionkey and 1 is from clutchswitch and the last goes to the coil. The clutchswitch doesnt exist anymore so my question is can I use the other 2 cables on the same connector on the ministarter?
did you contact Jegs? none of the starters they show have a solenoid like that
Yes I been searching their site but no info so that's why I ask the Q here.
It has a few years on it and been sitting on a race engine.
Will try email them and ask thanks.
I'd bet that the large terminal (left on in the picture) is the battery cable and the power for the rest of the car, with the smaller one being the purple wire from the ignition switch. The one from the coil can either be taped back to the harness, (possible make the car hard to start) or installed with the purple wire on the small terminal. That's my guess. YMMV
I'd bet that the large terminal (left on in the picture) is the battery cable and the power for the rest of the car, with the smaller one being the purple wire from the ignition switch. The one from the coil can either be taped back to the harness, (possible make the car hard to start) or installed with the purple wire on the small terminal. That's my guess. YMMV
My thoughts also but I got in touch with Jegs and they will reply shortly.
The coil cable is a must or the engine will die as soon as I release the key I did try that before on the original starter after convert to HEI.
IF you have HEI, you should not need a feed from the starter to the coil. Where did you pickup power for the HEI? The HEI "BAT" terminal should come from the ignition switch with no need to go to the starter.
During cranking the ignitionlock dont feed the distributor with full power since the original is a resistance wire and it will only feed the distributor with less than 10V so while cranking it feeds the ignition with 12V from the starter and I did replace the resistancewire but still it need the power during cranking. It is not a original HEI its a aftermarket piece and my car is to old for having a HEI original.
As said before, the BATTERY cable goes to the big terminal on the starter.
The PURPLE connects to the small terminal.
Your 74 originally used the YELLOW to supply power to the coil only with the key in START.
You will not need that wire with your HEI so tape it off at the starter.
You need full (battery voltage) 12 volts to the HEI.
Correct way:
You can open the fuse box and replace the resister wire.
Quick way:
Run a new wire from the IGN terminal in the fuse box to the HEI.
The car has spent the last 20 years in UK unfortunatly and the electrics are a mess really so at the moment I use the wire from the starter but did a new wire directly from the junction on the steeringcolumn but that one only give 12 volt after releasing the key. I will not touch the fusebox at the moment because that will make me wanna change the whole wireloom and I cant afford that right now......... But thanks I been thinking of your advice
did you contact Jegs? none of the starters they show have a solenoid like that
I got a reply from Jegs and this starter is one of theirs mostly used for racing and it will work on my car also. They dont have it on their list anymore but according to the guy it is one of their better ones.
Thanks
The quick fix is to run a new wire from the fuse box IGN terminal in the fuse box to the HEI distributor.
Since I had the column down I took it straight from junction on the column and put a inline fuse on the wire so no need fiddle with the fusebox at this time as you can see in this photo wires are a total mess but a little better after things were back together but still needs a lot of new wires/loom.
The after sure looks a lot better as for the first photo, I enjoy a challenge!
With that said have you made any progress?
The splice at the ignition switch may not be on the correct wire, do you recall the color?
You might want to disconnect that splice and try the jumper way.
Mr. Willcox posted a photo of where to jumper from the fuse box to the distributor.
The after sure looks a lot better as for the first photo, I enjoy a challenge!
With that said have you made any progress?
The splice at the ignition switch may not be on the correct wire, do you recall the color?
You might want to disconnect that splice and try the jumper way.
Mr. Willcox posted a photo of where to jumper from the fuse box to the distributor.
Well the car passed registration here in Sweden 2 weeks ago and last week it also passed inspection for ready to drive on the roads with a blank sheet
Now I am trying to get rid of my sidepipes and looking for headers that will fit properly. It is the right wire since I had the column out I measure from the ignitionlock no problem it works good.
Thanks
08-09-2017, 09:32 AM
Starter problem
